My 2017 Death Trap
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,778
Likes: 153
Can someone give a definition to the Death Wobble scenario?
I searched but I couldn't really find the definitive Death Wobble thread.
What is it
When does it occur
Is it isolated to any particular body / bed configurations?
Is it isolated to a particular driveline (4X4 or RWD)?
I have a 2wd Supercab Long bed Dually incoming and reading so much traffic about this Death Wobble... Should I be scared?
Thanks!
jimmy pet
I searched but I couldn't really find the definitive Death Wobble thread.
What is it
When does it occur
Is it isolated to any particular body / bed configurations?
Is it isolated to a particular driveline (4X4 or RWD)?
I have a 2wd Supercab Long bed Dually incoming and reading so much traffic about this Death Wobble... Should I be scared?
Thanks!
jimmy pet
That said anything and everything that hangs below that frame CAN BE A CAUSE OF DW!!!! So while the Track Bar (TB) and the Steering Stabilizer (SS) and the majority of the problem and the majority of the fix the input comes from other things. You pull into my shop with DW, WHAT do I do FIRST? Ensure tire pressure is IAW factory specs, Caster = factory specs, look for leaking front shocks, do a shock rebound test, look for looseness in the ball joints, look for a leaking SS.
IF none of the above, I remove the SS and TB, at this point in time its generally one of these 2 and I replace both and look for a Heavy Duty SS.
Back in the 60's the tire companies came out with "Belted" tires and some of the used steel wire for the belts this often turned into DW even on non-front axle cars because the tires were connected by the tire rod. Hit a hard bump and the steel wires would stretch and shift often causing DW.
About the only thing immune to DW is front solid axle with leaf springs that hold the axle stable in spite of the forces applied.
The Creep: Anywhere that DW originates when it occurs it does damage to the whole system so what happens over time is the ball joints get a minor flat spot that grows, the rubber bushings get indented and that grows and after a while it all adds up. DW is the result of too much-accumulated clearances at the connection points...SO whose fault is that? FORD? Sorry boys its YOURS. At the very FIRST sign of DW, pull in someplace and replace your SS...every time you have an episode of DW all it does is pound away at bushings, ball joints and putting wear on the system making your next episode of DW just the much worse and ez to come by.
IMO the reason why dealers cannot fix DW is because of The Creep. I can tell you, having owned an off-road shop* by the time a customer drove in and complained about DW it was a near-constant occurrence. After I do my inspection and do the testing if I believe I can fix with the SS/TB I will, if not then its component replacing time. Usually, the customer says no, cannot afford it, OK the here go down the street to WeBe Off-Road and they will band-aid it for you, I will not do anything that only provides a short term fix.
* I got into the off-road business because NO ONE could fix my DW. DW is an ez fix if you are all OEM, if not and you rig has been molested by various 4x4 shops then DW can turn into a real challenge when you have to factor in oversize tires, lift kits etc.
FWIW, my advice is you replace your SS up around 30k mi as a preventive, don't wait for it to show up...
Your truck, your wallet do as you wish.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10,163
Likes: 1,373
From: Chaz
Look up a video if you dont know what it is.....
I would suggest to change tires still. The more it happens the more it will wear out parts. Get the stuff fixed Ford will do, change tires (at least the front 2), have the dealer put on an aftermarket steering stabilizer and shocks. If you are really worried as stated above an aftermarket Trackbar but then you start getting out of factory perimeters.
If you are worried about the tires just keep them and toss them on the rear after a couple rotations and change all 4 a little early. Make sure its a factory size/rating and always keep them to the recommended pressure. I would swap brands next time.
Before I got a lawyer I would start eliminating potential causes.
I would even pay them to replace the trackbar bushing. Shocks/Stabilizer are an upgrade in performance, trust me the upgrade is worth (I went with Fox 2.0 and Fox IFP).
I would suggest to change tires still. The more it happens the more it will wear out parts. Get the stuff fixed Ford will do, change tires (at least the front 2), have the dealer put on an aftermarket steering stabilizer and shocks. If you are really worried as stated above an aftermarket Trackbar but then you start getting out of factory perimeters.
If you are worried about the tires just keep them and toss them on the rear after a couple rotations and change all 4 a little early. Make sure its a factory size/rating and always keep them to the recommended pressure. I would swap brands next time.
Before I got a lawyer I would start eliminating potential causes.
I would even pay them to replace the trackbar bushing. Shocks/Stabilizer are an upgrade in performance, trust me the upgrade is worth (I went with Fox 2.0 and Fox IFP).
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10,163
Likes: 1,373
From: Chaz
Like oaks said Steering Stabilizer as a Maintenance issue.
But knowing how Marginal ford shocks are if DW happened just once I would replace the stabilizer.
I’ve broke 6 Ford shocks on 2 trucks since 2015. I definitely wasn't trying either. Maybe more because on one of my managers trucks (2016 I sold at 47k miles to upgrade); when I drove it the shocks felt a little sloppy.
But knowing how Marginal ford shocks are if DW happened just once I would replace the stabilizer.
I’ve broke 6 Ford shocks on 2 trucks since 2015. I definitely wasn't trying either. Maybe more because on one of my managers trucks (2016 I sold at 47k miles to upgrade); when I drove it the shocks felt a little sloppy.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 2
Like oaks said Steering Stabilizer as a Maintenance issue.
But knowing how Marginal ford shocks are if DW happened just once I would replace the stabilizer.
I’ve broke 6 Ford shocks on 2 trucks since 2015. I definitely wasn't trying either. Maybe more because on one of my managers trucks (2016 I sold at 47k miles to upgrade); when I drove it the shocks felt a little sloppy.
But knowing how Marginal ford shocks are if DW happened just once I would replace the stabilizer.
I’ve broke 6 Ford shocks on 2 trucks since 2015. I definitely wasn't trying either. Maybe more because on one of my managers trucks (2016 I sold at 47k miles to upgrade); when I drove it the shocks felt a little sloppy.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,778
Likes: 153
Yea, mostly, I usually replace them when I buy the truck, sometime I will have the dealer do it if its not more thab about $40 bucks, way to ez to install to pay big bucks...I can do it and not even lift the truck, just lay down and put them in.
I do not recommend the OEM SS, Rancho makes 2 different ones for the Superduty, one is a HD model, its what I use...
I do not recommend the OEM SS, Rancho makes 2 different ones for the Superduty, one is a HD model, its what I use...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,778
Likes: 153
A word on FOX shocks...YEA they good, very good if you go for the high-end stuff, their top stuff is TOP STUFF!, but for less than half the price you can to top of the line Rancho 9000 XL which I have been running on my trucks and jeeps for almost 20 years.
The high dollar Fox comes with a Reservoir and you pay big for it. Unless you are running the Baja 1000 or driving washboard roads all day its just not needed. You just don't generate that level of heat in everyday driving and if you are off-roading, you really don't need it unless you are a racer.
The reason I like the Rancho 9000XL is that it is an adjustable shock and it was that very adjustability that got me out of a bind one time:
"On the last day in Pritchett Canyon, I snapped a Currie AntiRoc driver’s side sway bar control arm. The result was I disconnected the other side and now was driving without a front sway bar. Fine for the trail, but how would this affect the 500-mile trip back to Scottsdale.
I have driven locally without a sway bar en-route the car wash and I know it is a dodgy ride at best and just plain dangerous on the highway at speed. The thought was to push the speed until I felt uncomfortable and if need be spend the night making it a two-day trip. Much to my surprise, the highway handling was very good and by adding several increases in tighter shock valving I was able to drive home at normal highway speed safely. Truly a test of the Rancho 9000XL shocks and one in which they passed with excellence.
Would Fox have done same, I think so its just that the entry fee is a bit stiffer, no more, no less...
The high dollar Fox comes with a Reservoir and you pay big for it. Unless you are running the Baja 1000 or driving washboard roads all day its just not needed. You just don't generate that level of heat in everyday driving and if you are off-roading, you really don't need it unless you are a racer.
The reason I like the Rancho 9000XL is that it is an adjustable shock and it was that very adjustability that got me out of a bind one time:
"On the last day in Pritchett Canyon, I snapped a Currie AntiRoc driver’s side sway bar control arm. The result was I disconnected the other side and now was driving without a front sway bar. Fine for the trail, but how would this affect the 500-mile trip back to Scottsdale.
I have driven locally without a sway bar en-route the car wash and I know it is a dodgy ride at best and just plain dangerous on the highway at speed. The thought was to push the speed until I felt uncomfortable and if need be spend the night making it a two-day trip. Much to my surprise, the highway handling was very good and by adding several increases in tighter shock valving I was able to drive home at normal highway speed safely. Truly a test of the Rancho 9000XL shocks and one in which they passed with excellence.
Would Fox have done same, I think so its just that the entry fee is a bit stiffer, no more, no less...
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10,163
Likes: 1,373
From: Chaz
As per the post above change the front tires while its in the shop, just depending on your time schedule IMO. Maybe only buy one if you have a matching spare.
Anyway... I have the fox 2.0 Performance Series (no reservoirs) and the Fox ATS stabilizer. It all ran a little under $1000 to my door and I paid a shop $200 to put them on.
The Rancho 9000xl shocks save about $100 and if you complain the dealer will supposedly put on the better Rancho SS.
Anyway... I have the fox 2.0 Performance Series (no reservoirs) and the Fox ATS stabilizer. It all ran a little under $1000 to my door and I paid a shop $200 to put them on.
The Rancho 9000xl shocks save about $100 and if you complain the dealer will supposedly put on the better Rancho SS.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 2
A word on FOX shocks...YEA they good, very good if you go for the high-end stuff, their top stuff is TOP STUFF!, but for less than half the price you can to top of the line Rancho 9000 XL which I have been running on my trucks and jeeps for almost 20 years.
The high dollar Fox comes with a Reservoir and you pay big for it. Unless you are running the Baja 1000 or driving washboard roads all day its just not needed. You just don't generate that level of heat in everyday driving and if you are off-roading, you really don't need it unless you are a racer.
Would Fox have done same, I think so its just that the entry fee is a bit stiffer, no more, no less...
The high dollar Fox comes with a Reservoir and you pay big for it. Unless you are running the Baja 1000 or driving washboard roads all day its just not needed. You just don't generate that level of heat in everyday driving and if you are off-roading, you really don't need it unless you are a racer.
Would Fox have done same, I think so its just that the entry fee is a bit stiffer, no more, no less...
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 2
it’s not uncommon for the frames to be a bit off on these trucks. The track bars are pretty tight for production tolerance, tho. I’d strongly recommend that you watch the dealer replace that track bar. If you see them forcing it into place, there’s a good chance your frame is a bit off. A premium adjustable track bar should fix it, if so.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 407
Likes: 6
These “death wobble” threads are amazing.
These trucks are not poorly designed. There are many 100000s of us that have not experienced it(on our superdutys).
If everything is tight that should be tight....if the tires are in good shape, with correct pressures and round.....if the front end geometry hasn’t been altered from the way it was originally designed(lifted or “leveled”), there will be no “death wobble”.
This is more than my opinion. I like this forum....lots of good info here and it’s quite interesting. AND, you’re right in thinking that I shouldn’t read threads that I deem as an overreaction......so, I’ll let you carry on overreacting.
Good luck with your DW......try different tires first.
These trucks are not poorly designed. There are many 100000s of us that have not experienced it(on our superdutys).
If everything is tight that should be tight....if the tires are in good shape, with correct pressures and round.....if the front end geometry hasn’t been altered from the way it was originally designed(lifted or “leveled”), there will be no “death wobble”.
This is more than my opinion. I like this forum....lots of good info here and it’s quite interesting. AND, you’re right in thinking that I shouldn’t read threads that I deem as an overreaction......so, I’ll let you carry on overreacting.
Good luck with your DW......try different tires first.
They are poorly designed.
They copied a JUNK Mopar design.
I've been through this starting in '95 with several Dodges and finally fixed the issue by going to GM for my 3/4 and 1-tons in '06.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,157
Likes: 8,003
From: Texas
Ummmm, FoMoCo had this design back in the ‘70’s. Worked fine then too. And good luck with the front end in Gubment Motors hanging together!!!!!!! Bye.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 407
Likes: 6
For used to use leaf springs on their straight axle front ends.
They went to the Mopar copy coil spring setup in '04.
I had three Dodges from '95-'01 with that front-end. Absolute junk.
Why Ford copied it I have no idea.
I still have a '95 F-SUPERDUTY with leaf springs and it's NEVER showed any hint of inclination to death wobble. Just like EVERY 18-wheeler on the road that doesn't death wobble because they use a proper leaf spring front-end.
They went to the Mopar copy coil spring setup in '04.
I had three Dodges from '95-'01 with that front-end. Absolute junk.
Why Ford copied it I have no idea.
I still have a '95 F-SUPERDUTY with leaf springs and it's NEVER showed any hint of inclination to death wobble. Just like EVERY 18-wheeler on the road that doesn't death wobble because they use a proper leaf spring front-end.