Is 60psi the recommended front tire pressure as printed on the Federal Safety Compliance Certification Label on or near the B pillar behind the driver's door?

I'm not asking to challenge you... I'm asking because Ford has changed their recommendation for F-250 4x4 Super Duties fitted with LT275 tires on 18" diameter rims between 2017 and 2019.

I've seen 2017 labels recommend 60 psi.. and I've seen 2019 labels recommend 70 psi for the same size tire and GVWR. (But I didn't compare front GAWR, and should have, so keep that in mind).

Here is where I'm going with this...




So, the question is, would increasing your front tire pressure to 65 psi, or even 70 psi (if the maximum cold inflation pressure rating on the tires themselves permits), reduce the propensity for your truck to "shimmy", or "wobble"?

I recently drove a 2019 F-550 for 600 miles, at times at speeds unfit to print, with no bed on the back (but I did have 600 lbs of sand strapped to the frame), and the tracking was dead on rock solid over the poorly maintained concrete freeways. The front tire pressure was 90 psi (tires rated to 110 psi).




The question of tire pressure being in any way a contributing factor to the onset of rapid oscillation when triggered by a bump in the road is something I would discuss with the Ford dealer service department you are working with, since they would be able to help reset your TPMS to the higher inflation pressure, if in fact a higher pressure might be of any help, as the owner's manual excerpt seems to imply, and as Ford's more recent recommendations for front tire pressures, at least on certain models of 2019 F-250s, would appear, in the absence of other relevant facts, to suggest.

It seems harmless enough to give it a shot.

 

It is the listed tire pressure, yes.

 

My 2017 F-450 mason dump front end feels better than the front end of my 2019 F-250 Lariat. It pisses me off even though Im not getting the death wobble. The ride is notably more nervous in the 250. I mess around with tire pressures all the time. Did so on big trucks since the 70s. Higher pressure with lower loads typically has the tires bouncing more. It could be different with these trucks but in my opinion the pages you reproduced were created by smarmy lawyers to use in the event of a law suit. They obviously know the potential exists for an accident and they are trying to insert something to use as a defense. The quote from the manual insinuates that a minor variance of air pressure could cause the front tires to bounce off the road at 70 MPH???? and since they warned you on page 381 its your fault it happened???
Sorry brother but thats BS. Maybe... just maybe if they told you that in the showroom before purchase....maybe had you sign a waiver... HAHAHAH how many trucks would they sell?
On a perfectly stock heavy duty truck... to have pages in the manual actually state that minor fluctuations in tire pressure could cause this issue is astounding. Helll.. different brands of tires will make more of a difference than a few psi of air. Some replacement tires weigh 50 lbs... others weigh 72 lbs... thats going to make more of a difference.
The 450 front end is completely different. Better I think in many ways. And really my 450 base model work truck 1.5 ton dump truck rides better than my leather interior 250 Lariat in many ways...
Just sayin.

 

Tuesday is the next scheduled appt., supposedly one of the parts was defective, and the dealership is in possession of a good part, we will see. If the problem still presents itself, then I will have no other recourse but to go the Federal Magnuson-Moss act, this steps in when Lemon laws fail. I used that in 1998 when I had a GM truck that was in the service bay for 18 months and they could not keep that truck running. Went to federal court in Chicago and won. No attorney fees as GM had to pay my attorney fees. I appreciate loyalty as much as any of you on this forum, the loyalty needs to work both ways. Appreciate all the feedback you guys have given.

 

I'm pretty sure the engineers at Ford are paid well to do this. Customers buy trucks with the general understanding that this kind of work has been done for them. I can see why this would be very, very. frustrating after repeated attempts to fix.

 

If you want to keep this going, YES, the engineers at Ford do have it figured out; BUT, do all of the parts suppliers have it figured out where just ONE sub-standard part NEVER makes it to the assembly line. (All it takes is one.) Then the final consumer takes it to the Ford Fix-it shop, where the parts replacer does NOT have a clue what to look for to actually fix the problem.
The OP has about three choices here
1. Find somebody that actually KNOWS how to fix it. (As previously stated, it IS fixable.)
2. Learn to fix it himself.
3. Trade vehicles.

 

This I understand. Sorry for your frustration and problems. It was a different, but persistent problem why my ‘15 F350 dually went away. I was fortunate that the dealer worked with me on that, because where I bought it Lemon Law only cover up to 10,000 GVW vehicles. He basically did a buy back and pro-rated the 20,000 miles I had put on it.
Good luck getting this resolved.

 

Unfortunately, many times the OEM engineers don't have it figured out. Some people in my family are in management at a company that makes a lot of major components for several OEMs. You would be surprised at how many times drawings and specifications for up coming components are nothing more than a disaster. Sometimes after much back and forth the OEM will somewhat change the design, sometimes not. That's when constant problems occur such as D/W, ect.

Sometimes the engineer drawings are fine, but the quote to produce this component is too high. If after negotiations fail to come up with a price the OEM will accept, the OEM will redesign with lesser quality parts that will meet their price target. Usually this leads to lots of warranty work and possible recalls that are blamed on the supplier.

Don't doubt me on this, I know who and what, but will not say to protect family members that have to deal directly with the OEMs.

 

I rest my case.

 

Could ponder this all day or just replace the trac bar ball joint and hit the road

 

I would venture a guess the a great majority of the time, DW is tracbar related.

 

So something like the Icon adjustable trac bar would most likely eliminate DW?

 

Or the Carli

 

Just a new lower ball joint. But yes those aftermarket bars would come with one. But new joint is only $40.

 

The Carli I looked at said 2.5"+ lift, the Icon said 0"-5.5" lift. I was thinking as a fix for stock, no lift trucks.