I got a new truck that is not running and have some mechanical know-how (enough to be dangerous).

I'm stumped by my first issue (I can see how this project is going). With a good battery plus a charger on jump start it will only crank 1.5 time before loosing power.

I had the starter checked at Azone and it passed the bench test. I removed the spark plugs and it cranks fast and quick.

I can't understand what would make it so hard to crank. I don't know if I should add more amps or what to think.

I have added juice behind the solenoid and also directly at the starter but all the same - just a very hard time cranking.

Any advise out there?

-Thanks
Matt

 

Before changing any parts or even cleaning any connections, please read this guide, written especially for a slow/no crank condition:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html


Make no assumptions that any parts are good, even if new or nearly so. The starter bench test? If the starter was unloaded, that’s no guarantee it will perform properly under load.

Same with the battery. Measure the voltage UNDER load to confirm it is capable of supplying the massive rush of electrons required to turn the starter. Details in the guide linked above.

And please oh please oh please, fully charge the battery before doing anything. Charge it overnight with a charger that has at least a ten amp output. A trickle charger won’t cut it.

Follow the guide. It will take you directly to the fault(s) with a minimum of effort and expense.

 

Here’s the priject
Thanks for the boost! I’ll let you know what I find out!

 

Check the timing as it may be too far advanced. If the plugs are back in the engine, pull the ignition coil wire and try to crank. If it spins "fast and quick", then the dragging is ignition related.

 

After trying to crank it some, take your hand and feel all of the large cables, positive and ground that go from the battery to the block and the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. Any smoking or hot spots indicate a bad cable at that location, usually at the connections at the end of the cables..

 

I'd agree with that. Any of the battery or ground cables that are original or just kinda old should be replaced. Make sure the connection points to frame, block, and firewall are bright and clean down to bare metal and free of paint or grease and tighten securely. Use good quality heavy gauge cable.

Those generic, blister-pac universal replacement battery cables in the parts stores are junk and to be avoided. Good ones don't really cost much more money but probably have to go to a tractor supply or a welding supply co., a lot of times they will make up a set for you. FleaBay has a few guys that make them up too for a good price. Good terminals are important too, they need to be crimped correctly.

Junk terminals are just soldered on (poorly) and are lead, which deform after the first tightening. Loose terminals will corrode. Also avoid those emergency "clamp" type terminals with the bolts. Good cables have solid copper terminals plated with tin or zinc, shrink wrapped, and heavy multi-stand flexible copper. It might seem like overkill but both cold and hot temperatures can cause trouble with starting when connections are poor.

 

Thanks franklin2 - I’ll give that a whirl.

 

I’m pulling double duty with a house renovation and work. My wife doesn’t like that I bought this truck and I’m having to sneak out to mess with it (explaining the slow progress.

yesterday I met with the previous owner (for notary work). He said it has always cranked slow. No mater what he diI did try the ignition timing verification technique with no changed (i.e. new starter, multiple batteries etc.).

I have typically been using a 1000 CCA jumper box and I have noticed the wires on that getting extremely hot. As for the other wires going to the starter - the positive from the solenoid has some sort of conduit on it and I don’t see a ground wire (probably self grounding...right?).

I just need need to ask this question. What are the chances this truck turned over slow from day one? I mean manufactured that way. Seems like a silly question. I have a 63 bonneville 389 and it turns over much quicker. I doubt the 460 would just be too much for the battery/solenoid to handle. Before I troubleshoot much further I just had to get that question out of the back of my head.

Is there a good way to bench test the solenoid? I thought it might not be letting optimal amperage through.

Thanks for what y’all do!

 

Just off the top of my head, I'd say the odds are 0.0000000000000000%, give or take +/- 0.000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000.

Your truck did not leave the factory that way. Scroll back up in this thread to post #2. Follow the link, repeated here for your convenience:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html


That test will absolutely, positively pinpoint the problem. Don't replace the battery yet. Don't change the starter yet. You asked about the ability of the starter relay (aka solenoid) to carry the current flow. This same test will also cover that. Don't mess with the ignition timing, as the ignition is disabled for the initial test and out of the picture. Don't bother cleaning any connections or replacing anything.

If all that electrical discussion looks overwhelming, skip to the recap at the end of the test. You do three simple meter connections. You don't even have to understand how or why the test works. Just do the three tests given and report back with the numbers. The first test measures the ability of the battery to supply enough oomph under the massive load of the starter. The next two tests measure the current carrying ability of the positive and negative sides of the starter circuit. Literally 5 minutes tops, and it will save you a LOT of grief.

The only caveat is you must begin troubleshooting with a fully charged battery. If you have not charged the battery yet, please beg, borrow, or steal a charger with at least a 10 amp output. Don't waste your time with a trickle charger, it won't cut it.

 

kr98664,

I read the the link and very much appreciate the advice.

I thought that by connecting the jumper box (1000CCA) directly to the starter and having the same result I could draw some conclusion from that.

Guessing now I need to follow the advice I asked for.

I will post the results as suggested.

Oh - thanks for giving me the odds I asked for 😉