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If you didn't want to boost pressure mechanically using valve body and boost valve modifications, there are ways to boost electronic boost pressures too. I'm not sure if Banks still makes them (Looks like they do.Search for; Transcommand)but they used to sell them that go inline between the trans harness and solenoid pack. A much cheaper solution is to install a resistor which boosts line pressure all the time, the instructions can probably be found on the net to do this and are included in B&M shift kits too if you want to try googling for their instructions and searching for the resistor and install instructions that way.
I suggest and use the Transgo Tugger kit myself, but those are two other methods of increasing electronic line pressures, outside the TECA. I'm not recommending either (though I don't believe either to be harmful), just info.
I had the pressures boosted when I had the transmission rebuilt. After installing the Banks turbo kit later, I also installed the Transcommand. The shifts were way too violent. Banks told me to remove it. That was approximately 100K miles ago. I have towed a 5th wheel all over the US and Canada. No problems
I was really curious as to why they would have told you it was the wrong one in the first Place ... as far as the Code on the one you got I have no Ford information on it
FOTF-12B565-AA <<== IF it follows the rest as I posted earlier ......
"The following 1994 controllers will retro-fit all models 1989 to 1993. Consult this list to locate the correct controller part number for your application."
7.3 Diesel F series Econoline all 50 states use #F4TZ-12B565-AA
7.3 Diesel F series Econoline High altitude use #F4TZ-12B565-CA
7.3 Diesel Super Duty all 50 states use #F4TZ-12B565-BA
7.3 Diesel Super Duty High altitude use #F4TZ-12B565-DA
7.3 Turbo Diesel F series all states all altitudes use #F4TZ-12B565-EA
7.3 Turbo Diesel Super Duty all states all altitudes use #F4TZ-12B565-FA
But then one would think the FOTF-12B565-EA (of course I can not find any Reference to this number either) would have been the choice with the turbo ..and as Mark said the biggest difference would be line pressure.
BUT as was also said others have added a turbo and not changed the PCM and they had no issues so I'm sure yours will be fine.
Glad it's working for you
I'm concerned about possible "soft" shifts with this PCM. If I throttle it up to about 3K rpm, it shifts solid. I just don't want to harm the transmission. I could possibly attempt to get the rebuild company to repair my old PCM and exchange it. (I'm probably dreaming) What's your thoughts?
I'm concerned about possible "soft" shifts with this PCM. If I throttle it up to about 3K rpm, it shifts solid. I just don't want to harm the transmission. I could possibly attempt to get the rebuild company to repair my old PCM and exchange it. (I'm probably dreaming) What's your thoughts?
Since your Original was Non-Turbo F4TF-12B565-AA then the replacement would be F4TZ-12B565-AA so My Best Guess is that FOTF-12B565-AA is the same difference BUT I can not find anything from Ford on that Last Number so I think it is Just a number from the Rebuilder., unless someone else like Number Dummy (Bill) can Identify it.
Since you say that the Transmission was rebuilt and the line pressure was increased you should be fine. I'm sure you probably still have your TransCommand that you removed. IF needed for Heavy Towing... they claim that it never increases Line Pressure above Ford Specs <<== But you also said that Banks told you that the TransCommand was too much, they probably said that since the Transmission was rebuilt and Modified.
the area in the Red Circle is a MOV a Diode and a Capacitor ..the Red Arrow is showing another Capacitor....... I normally replace these Capacitors on any of these older trucks when I find myself digging into the Cluster, they leak and cause issues.
The Integrated Circuit marked by the Green Arrow is IC1 it is what actually takes the VSS sensor signal and conditions it to a Square Wave for the PCM...
I'm seeing this thread now, linked from another. Do you happen to remember what parts you buy to replace them, ie - what ratings and capacities for the two caps and the diode?
Also, have you noticed any differences once you do this? I saw that for my problems, and possibly OP here, Ford recommends a new PSOM to, essentially, muffle any unneeded electrical signals that are caused by tone ring chips, gaps at the VSS, and other such problems. They don't recommend fixing the problems but replacing the PSOM. And caps are how such things would be buffered electrically, so I feel like this could be my solution. But I'd like to know if you know whether it's likely to be from experience, and if you know the parts to buy I'll get them ready before I pull the cluster.
