I apologize. I started a new subject after completing my "wipers will not shut off" thread and did not start a new thread.
To bring you all up to date: O/D light on shifter started flashing. Tranny went into "limp mode" shifted from 1st to 2nd VERY strong.
With help from Mark Kovalsky and lonewolf I obtained codes. Code 23 was one I had. I screwed up and did not open throttle (WOT) BEFORE HOOKING UP Code Reader which meant I replaced probably perfectly good TPS. Oh well. Installed and adjusted to 1.26-3.93. For some reason, I can't seem to get above 3.93 with my adjustment. I have throttle linkage wired so it's all the way to adjustment screw.
Just checked codes again and obtained 1 1 1 1 29 29 No further codes. I believe 29 indicates insufficient VSS Input which means absolutely nothing to me.
PLEASE HELP.

 

Sorry..I forgot to add the tachometer doesn't work when first started but comes alive after a minute or so and is fine the rest of trip. It's been doing that for last 6 months so I don't think it is connected to this. Installed new sending unit but no fix

 

Congratulations on actually pulling the codes, now you can attempt to fix the real problem,

if your tach doesn't work on start up you need to replace the rpm sensor on the engine near the oil fill, mine did the same thing and it's an easy swap,

I also get an occasional 29 code, vss is the vehicle speed sensor on your rear differential, it could be that sensor or possible you PCOM behind your dash,

I'd fix the tach first and then see how it runs, mine transmission changed completely when I replaced it,

I don't know about your TPS values,

.

 

ya Tom I think I suggested the Innova 3145 in a PM to you awhile back as they are tested to work on our diesel trucks and it is a lot easier to use than the manual method... although the Manual method does work.... but that 20 dollar box sure removes some of the headache.

on the Tach Sender.. it puts out a variable AC signal of a couple Volts.. it's just a coil of wire wrapped on an Iron core .... anyway the resistance of that sensor taken at the pigtail connector of the sensor should be between 2400 and 2800 Ohms ... sometimes it helps to pull the sensor out and Clean the end of it.

The VSS on the differential is pretty much same as the Tach sensor in it's construction... it's resistance is 1300 to 1550 Ohms.. all the pinpoint tests are in that manual I sent you via DropBox it's under the Heading of "Circuit Test DS Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module"

IF you are dropping the VSS signal it can also cause your RABS light to come on and you mentioned you had that issue for a bit IF I remember correct.
the same thing goes with cleaning the VSS sensor in the rear end too... I seldom find them to actually go bad .. but it does happen.

 

the pinpoint test for the TPS is "Circuit Test DQ " which is just before "Circuit Test DS" in the manual I sent ya.

 

I'll have to admit, I am not computer savvy. When you mentioned the manual in the drop box, I thought you meant the manual that comes with the code checker. Obviously I didn't find it there. Would you please tell me where to find the drop box you are referring to?
I tested the tach sender and it read 2450 ohms. Good but still a problem
I read the VSS and it read 2008 ohms. Guess I better get a new one. Where is a good place?

 

it's the Link I gave you in Private message... the file was too large to upload to the Forums.


BTW Scott in TX "if your tach doesn't work on start up you need to replace the rpm sensor on the engine near the oil fill, mine did the same thing and it's an easy swap," <<== this is not always True because the Tach sensor is NOT connected to the Tachometer, it is connected to the PCM and the PCM produces a separate Tach Signal for the Tachometer itself. ... These old Tachometers have a tendency for the meter movement to get a bit sticky with age and are easy to repait with a Micro Drop of Clock Oil on the bearings, then a bench Calibration with such as a Wavetek FG

 

OK these are probably OK... BUT I would clean them.

"I tested the tach sender and it read 2450 ohms. Good but still a problem
I read the VSS and it read 2008 ohms. Guess I better get a new one. Where is a good place?"

you need to understand the Values I posted are just from the service Manual and depending on the quality of the meter being used and the Temperature of the component at the time of measurement are all factors even how good of Contact was made with the meter leads too. 20% of the range can be tolerated for error.

Another thing is Resistance of the wires and connectors between the sensors and the PCM itself..and over the years the Values of components in the PCM change too and cause it to not read signals as it did when New and within Spec. Capacitors are common items that cause issues in the PCM.

AS far as getting new parts Rock Auto or FleaBay is a good choice when you don't want to pay Big Bux... I use Alibaba and Aliexpress a lot too

Also on the VSS signals when bearings get worn in the Differential the Gap between the Tone Ring and Sensor can change causing lower than Optimal voltage to be produced by the sensor.... this is one reason for cleaning the sensors...... they collect Iron Filings like a magnet.


EDIT: also I might Add that the VSS on the differential doesn't actually connect to the PCM... it is connected to the ABS Module and the PSOM .. the PSOM takes the AC signal from the VSS and makes a "Digital" signal to send to the PCM.

 

I checked all my PM and found nothing referring to the manual you sent. I'd appreciate it if you would give it another shot.

As far as the tach sender, I replaced it with another and there was no improvement. I'' try a little clock oil as was suggested.
If a new VSS doesn't do the job, do you know where is the best place to get 1# of C-4?

 

Ok PM sent with the Trouble shoot guide .. it has all the wiring diagrams too. but you will want to Look at C202 as it is not listed on the schematics

 

Well..here I am again. Installed new VSS. Took truck for a spin. No light on O/D started out in drive. At 1900 RPM, truck shifted into 2nd violently and O/D light started blinking. Truck shifted again violently. It actually went into O/D (I am almost certain)
After installing the VSS, was I supposed to reset the codes or what?
I read the file you sent (all 83 pages-I have a headache) Pretty overwhelming for a old fart.
What am I supposed to do next?

 

see what codes you have now, and go to the Specific Pinpoint Test for the items in Question.

Yes I know the manual has a lot of information but it is the only way to properly Diagnose the E4OD system.. it's different for folks that work on these things every day of their life as they probably have done all these pinpoint test hundreds of times.

just due to reading all the posts and PM's from you I suspect a Vref Issue in the PCM, but since I cannot Physically do the testing on your truck I cannot make that decision. but for sure it is an electrical Problem.
I would be doing the same thing and looking at the codes and then following the Pinpoint tests.

E4OD sensors:

MLPS - Manual Lever Position Sensor -
MLPS is located on transmission manual shift lever - (drivers side)

Symptoms:
Vehicle won't start in Park and/or Neutral or will start in one or but not the other
Computer codes 67, 634, 654, (A/C must be off when testing system)

Vehicle appears to be in wrong gear: i.e., Forward in Neutral

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor (Gas Engines) .
FIPL - Fuel Injection Pump Lever Sensor (Diesel Engines same as TPS above)
TPS is located directly on the Throttle body lever.
FIPL is located on the high pressure fuel pump lever.

Symptoms:

Harsh / low or high shift efforts - consistent.
Check for computer codes 23, 53, 73, 167

VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor -
VSS is located either on speedometer gear cable at tailshaft of transmission; or
VSS is located on top of rear differential.

Symptoms:

Very Erratic Shift Points
Computer codes 23, 53, 73,

Checking for bad sensor or connector:
1.Check each connector condition and for good contact.
Connectors under vehicle can be contaminated with water, mud, etc.
Clean connector contacts with contact cleaner and emery board (fiber finger nail file) as needed.

2.Visually inspect each wire for breaks from sensor back to firewall bulkhead connector.

3.Run continuity test on wires from sensor to bulkhead connector at firewall.

Refer to proper vehicle wiring diagram to located appropriate pins on connectors and color of wire to trace.

NOTE:

Disconnect sensor connector and negative cable on battery prior to using a ohm meter as they have current which could damage the vehicle computer.
Insert sharp probe in to wire near bulkhead connector and check for continuity at sensor connector. You may have to use a long piece of wire to do the continuity test.
Repeat test for each wire.

3.Adjust TPS or FIPL sensor per manual instructions for your particular vehicle
You will be looking for 5 volts and a lower return voltage back to computer with engine off, at idle and then at full open throttle.

NOTE for FIPL (Diesel Engines):

If you have a Black colored FIPL sensor, replace this sensor with a Gray colored update.

4.Adjust the MLPS by aligning notices in shifter shaft with alignment notch in side (toward top) of sensor.
Also, shift to Neutral and verify mark on MLPS is aligned properly. (not all after market makers of the MLPS use this neutral position mark).

 

here is a Free Ebook that you can get from DL.com for the E4OD... you just install it on your Puter... the online viewing no longer works....

https://e4od.wordpress.com/

 

Thanks for the Tips E book download. Now if I can comprehend all this.
Here is my latest codes. I looked at the different formats and can't really figure which scenario I have.

1 Flash 4 sec pause. 1 flash 4 sec pause 1 flash 4 sec pause 1 flash 6-9 sec pause 1 flash 4 sec pause 2 flash 2 sec pause 9 flash 4 sec pause 2 flash 2 sec pause 9 flash end

Hopefully that makes sense * * * * * ** ********* ** ********* The pause time may not be exact
That tells me insufficient VSS input. Since I changed the VSS, that probably means the VSS is not RECEIVING the proper signal?? I can't tell by the code sequence whether they are memory codes or hard fault codes.
I'm also confused about test procedure. Tips book states to turn key on off, on off, on off, on. You didn't mention that before. Do it or not
Thank you for your help

 

turn key on off, on off, on off, on <<=== was just another way to put the ECC-IV in KOEO mode this applied to some Chrysler Vehicles too.... I'm not sure if it even works with our Diesel trucks as I've never tried it.

this procedure was mostly used on the Gas Engines with the ECC-IV and in some cases you had to turn the steering wheel to activate the Power Steering Pressure switch and then hit either the Brake or depress the accelerator to WOT <<=== it's been a long time since I have used these procedures so I don't recall all the vehicle types.

as I have explained the VSS in the Differential is not connected to the PCM itself..... it is connected to the ABS Control Module and also Connected to the PSOM (Speedometer) the PSOM converts the VSS signal then sends that signal to the PCM. <<<== this is what pinpoint test is for ===>> "Circuit Test DS Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module"

Since you do not have an ECC-IV Breakout Box you you just do the tests from the wires themselves.