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I'm working on a ton of mods, so I'm just going to start thread after thread for the next week.
I need to wire the power cord for my dashcam. I can get it up and around and down the side of the windshield (from the camera by the rear view mirror) easy enough, and I know where the upfitter wires are in the bay. What's the best way to get around the dash and to the grommet near the parking brake? (I'm assuming that's the best grommet to use to get to the upfitter leads)
There are pass-through wires located in the passenger side footwell behind the kick panel. These will get you from the cab to the engine bay, both on the passenger side.
There are 4 wires. If you need more than that, I would just run one large gauge wire into the cab and install your own fuse block.
I went through the grommet forward of the parking brake. Its very tough to get through. I used a piece of small steel tubing (1/4" maybe?) sharpened to a point on one end. Jam that through the flat part of the grommet, pull your wires through the tube, then pull the tube out.
Run your wire down the passenger A pillar and get power from the fuse box.
Yes, you can, and for a dashcam its probably low risk. But adding leech circuits onto the fusebox can have very nasty side effects if they draw very much current. There are some nice taps for this purpose which replace the fuse in the box - pull fuse, insert tap, replace fuse, like this one:
I'm working on a ton of mods, so I'm just going to start thread after thread for the next week.
I need to wire the power cord for my dashcam. I can get it up and around and down the side of the windshield (from the camera by the rear view mirror) easy enough, and I know where the upfitter wires are in the bay. What's the best way to get around the dash and to the grommet near the parking brake? (I'm assuming that's the best grommet to use to get to the upfitter leads)
I just did this last weekend. Like many others have said, I really can't fathom why Ford put the pass-through wires on the passenger side and the upfitter box on the driver's!
After looking at what would be required to run a wire across the engine bay (and reading everyone's gripes about how hard it is to get a hold of the short pass-through wire ends once you get there) I opted to just punch through a grommet in the firewall. In addition to power, I needed to run a camera wire from a rear view mirror to the back of the truck so I was going to have to punch through the firewall anyway. The grommet I punched through was for the steering column. On the passenger side of the steering column grommet, there's a little circle that seems made for it. It's a tough piece of rubber and required multiple passes with increasing sized drill bits but I'm happy with the outcome.
One issue I've been having is that the headliner seam is pretty loose and isn't pinching the wires in place. I'll need to add a clip of some sort to keep them from slipping out.
Yes, you can, and for a dashcam its probably low risk. But adding leech circuits onto the fusebox can have very nasty side effects if they draw very much current. There are some nice taps for this purpose which replace the fuse in the box - pull fuse, insert tap, replace fuse, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-FH...dp/B0742BZXC2/ Be sure to get the correct size. Our new Fords have some triple-contact fuses, which I had not seen before.
There's a bundle of wires in the passenger side kick panel for adding things like PTO, etc. Its perfect for a dash cam because its switched power. No need to mess with fuse taps.
Yes, you can, and for a dashcam its probably low risk. But adding leech circuits onto the fusebox can have very nasty side effects if they draw very much current. There are some nice taps for this purpose which replace the fuse in the box - pull fuse, insert tap, replace fuse, like this one:
There's a bundle of wires in the passenger side kick panel for adding things like PTO, etc. Its perfect for a dash cam because its switched power. No need to mess with fuse taps.
I actually want constant power. This dash cam has a parking mode. I want to put it on an upfitter switch so I can kill the power when I go out of town for several weeks. Otherwise I want it running 24/7.
Why go thru firewall for dashcam ?? My truck has bundle of loose wires behind passenger kick panel. I think those are related to upfitters. If so, no reason to get thru firewall for this.
- Power: I ran the cig plug wire UP from the passenger kick panel up behind the passenger grab handle then up along front edge of headliner to camera. I wired it into 2 fuses, 1 for always hot, 1 for assy. I also used the "magic" box, as part of kit, to manage the camera power. It runs 24x7x365 while monitoring battery. If voltage drops below a value I set, it will turn off power to camera. That magic box draws very little power itself.
- Camera-rear: ran wire from rearview mirror area along headliner to passenger grab handle panel (removed). I then pushed the wire down into each panel holding up the ceiling panel all the way around to back of cabin, to right of sliding rear window.. I used the plastic trim removal tool to very gently pry away each section then pushed the wire behind it. I did not remove ANY trim other than passenger grab handle and passenger kick panel. I think running the wire to rear camera took 10 minutes ?
Now for my trailer camera wiring, I ran thru the same grommet as others here post. That was not fun but I did not find any other way.
About connecting to fusebox, I struggled A LOT trying to find a fuse tap compatible; I finally found THIS on ebay. These fuse taps come in many sizes within the descripton "Micro2 Blade ATR Fuse Adapter ". Turns out our fuse box is very deep thus it requires these adapters with extra long fingers. These are not cheap but well worth cost in terms of less hassle getting them in.
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by joelpat
I'm working on a ton of mods, so I'm just going to start thread after thread for the next week.
I need to wire the power cord for my dashcam. I can get it up and around and down the side of the windshield (from the camera by the rear view mirror) easy enough, and I know where the upfitter wires are in the bay. What's the best way to get around the dash and to the grommet near the parking brake? (I'm assuming that's the best grommet to use to get to the upfitter leads)
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