Thankfully most of the wires were only added to the fuse block and the ignition switch from the PO. All those are gone now I cut all of the tape off the full harness and tracing all the wires out as well as plugging in a few test leads to ensure the gauges and all the light are working properly. Turn switch in the steering column still works, return cam is broke as expected. One thing Im doing which is off the beaten path, is going back to a left and right turn indicator vs just the single indicator. Moving those to the idiot light locations since I don't need those lights (and the amp light wasn't even in use anyways). I'll take some pics once I finish it up if my orange needle paint will get here. All the dash lights are going to LEDs as well to help with bulb life and brightness.

 

BTW, they are making solid state cvr's for these things now!

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...1966/p/HW2880/

This one is for a mustang, but I seem to remember one being available for F100's as well.

 

Thanks, its on order! Much rather replace it now and not have to worry about it later.

 

I consider both of the "idiot" lights very useful, and both have saved me from disaster or being stuck on the side of the road before. When the "ALT" light is on, you're running solely off the battery, the alternator is not putting out enough current to keep up with the drain, so the battery will die before long and leave you stranded. The fault could be in several places, but you know your alternator isn't doing it's job.

When the OIL light is on, you've lost oil pressure, and if you keep the engine running, you're going to spin a bearing and wipe out the engine. The PO of my '76 F150 poured some kind of leak sealer in the crankcase to cover up the typical front and rear china wall leaks on the 390. It formed a gooey slick sludge that would get sucked up to the oil pickup and blocked the oil flow through it. I knew I had plenty of oil, and when I primed it by hand I could see oil go all the way to the top of the rocker arms, but shortly after the engine was running, the slime would get sucked up by the pickup and the light would come on. I had to drop the oil pan to clean all the goop out. With my limited FE experience I attributed to a poor design as it first only appeared at high RPM. The light doesn't come on at all anymore. Yes, a gauge would have worked too, but the light did it's job and saved my engine.

 

I could see that being handy for sure with that kind of experience. I just tend to trust a gauge more than a light from my experience. I've had oil lights not come due to just enough pressure not to trigger it but low enough pressure its not getting a good consistent flow to the heads. I did move the oil light up to the top turn indicator position just as a filler, but I know wasn't hooked up at the filter due to the gauge tubing. Be super easy to T that off for both the light and the gauge and keep both that way if the red light came on it would for sure catch the attention if the gauge wasn't being watched closely, (changed the high beam to a blue light so it would be the only red light). Ok I like that idea, I'll plan on doing that. Thanks for all the tips and ideas on the build it makes a difference to consider more options to get it as close to correct as it can be!

 

Made a lot of progress. Very happy how the gauges turned out. Put in a red LED for the oil light now as well. Set the cab back on the frame to finish up plumbing the brake lines. Then installed the new fuse block to finish up my dash wiring. When I get ready for paint I’ll pull it all back out again. Started pulling the tape off the under hood harnesses now to get them cleaned up. Lot of little things to do as well as a lot of big items to go. But little at a time.

 

Wiring is done! Went through every wire on it. Alt harness was a mess as well as the horn relay harness. Ended up adding another fuse block under the hood and replacing the full tail light harness. Not a lot to look at but a very much needed check mark off the ever long list of things to do.

 

Forgot to wire in the windshield washer pump switch More to do tomorrow and it’s a good thing I have extra fuse space now. Time I get radio in along with A/C fuse block will be getting full but not overloaded as I over killed it on the supply wire.

 

Where did you get your fuse blocks? It looks as though you haven't bought a kit but are replacing the wiring as needed. It's certainly a much needed upgrade. The old fuse block terminals on my truck are rusty, and some fuses don't make very good contact. Very nice work.

 

Amazon on the large fuse block. It has 2 sides to it, constant hot and key hot. The small under hood was from parts store. Most of the wires were in decent shape except where the PO got a hold of it or the PO before him. But its all up and going now and properly fused to make me feel comfortable.

 

I wonder why your speedometer is registering a little over 5 MPH when sitting still? Usually they drop back to the lower stop when there is no input. Older pic looks correct.

 

Im pretty sure I hit the back of it when taking pics, as its normally sitting at 0. I better double check it make sure I didn't mess something up on it. Last night was checking to see if the LED light would dim. I think they will if my switch was any good. It was acting goofy and had bent coils. Ordered a new one. I did check the lights with a resistor I had from an old project and it worked.

 

Little front end work. Stripped, all the extra holes welded up, rusted spots cut out and fixed, primered and painted.

 

Those pieces look great!

 

I painted the steering column as well but not sure its going back in yet. It needs the lower bearings replaced and horn switch. Debating on getting a 32" universal with tilt and fabing that up to work. Unless Im missing something should be pretty easy to do. Still need to measure and count the splines on the steering box to see if I can get a new rag joint to match up to the universal DD style shaft.