Just finished the restoration of a 1950 F47 truck. Our only problem is excessive clutch free play. There is between 3 to 4 inches of free play and we are at the end of the adjustment. Upon close inspection, it appears the rod was cut at sometime and rewelded. As depicted in the photograph, center distance between holes is 5-1/2 inches. Everything was worn and totally destroyed when we originally disassembled the truck 2-1/2 years ago. We cannot remember what free play we had. My question is does this clutch adjustment rod appear to be the correct length? We need to extend the rod length to get the free play back to 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 inches. Did we do something wrong? The engine, clutch and transmission was assembled by a very experienced flathead guy.

Thanks for your help.

 

It does look short. The only picture of mine I can find only shows the front end, but it has a lot more threads on it than yours. I'll try to measure it pin-to-pin tomorrow.

 

I had a similiar problem with my 52 F-1 where the linkage seemed not to the adjustment needed.
It turned out that I tried to use a diaphragm type clutch pressure plate (multiple fingers) which the catalogs sell as fitting a a1952 F-1 with 239 V8.
Wrong, you have to use a 3 finger pressure plate. There is some subtle changes in the geometry of the pressure plate that screws up the adjustment linkage.

 

I have the same problem with my clutch adjustment it is all the way out to end of rod.To bad they don't make different lengths.I do have some wear on all the linkage components though,which probably don't help.

 

I had the same problem on my 52 F1. I set my rod to exactly what it was before I disassembled it. My clutch pedal was near all the way down before the throw out bearing made contact with the pressure plate. I fought this for a couple weeks. Pulled the engine and tranny out several times. Searched on this forum, put pictures on here, ordered a different pressure plate. Nothing. I wound up making my adjustment rod longer.

 

I wonder what what be the easest way to lenthen the rod?Just take the rod off and have a extra threads welded on or if possible cut the rod and add a turn buckle if you have the clearence?

 

If you had to lengthen the rod, it would be easiest to cut the rod in the center and extend it there. It would be almost impossible to add additional threaded section and have the threads line up. Often these things have been repaired with whatever the repairer could find, these things are simple enough that a part from a different vehicle or even a different make might have been substituted in at some point in its 70 or so years of life. Also, modern replacement parts like clutch pressure plates and throwout bearings might be different by a few millimeters that can make the original adjustment methods not work well. I have a whole new clutch assembly in my 54 f100, and the adjustment rod really isn't long enough to give me a good feeling pedal. In my case, though, it's just a "j" bolt that I can make myself with a piece of threaded rod. This one in question, needless to say, is a lot more complicated than that!

I'd think if you can't find a proper replacement part that you could pretty easily fabricate an extension out of 1/4" steel, maybe about 3" long and 1" wide. Drill a hole for the original turnbuckle pin to go through, and another hole at the end where the pedal arm attaches. If you can weld, you can make a new turnbuckle that way too. But I think a 3" or so long piece of heavy steel would make a sufficient extension that would work fine. Sometimes you've gotta work with what you got!

 

I had a new rod and yolk end. I cut my old threaded rod for my extension. I used my old yolk fork, cut it off and used the threaded part for a coupler to connect the two threaded pieces.

 

I am going to get a new rod and do the same thing.I guess you can get a coupler that will work to join the threads?