Today I was playing around on the web concerning the above title and our trucks. I just had my front drums turned and new shoes installed so both wheels started off the same as the truck was pulling left. Hadn't dug out my manual yet so I looked around to see what was said before adjusting tonight. Ran across this on a search here:

The 1966 Service Manual states, for F-100:
Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut "17-25 Ft-lbs. Back off 1 to 1 1/2 castellations and install lock nut and cotter pin."
So there is your preload. I would assume that 64 will be the same.



My 65 manual says, for Light trucks, adjust preload to 50-80 ft/lbs. while rotating the drum. Next back off 1 to no more than two castellations or 1/6 to 1/4 turns. Install cotter pin.



As you can see vastly different. Interesting...

 

50-80 sounds like a lot to me. Last time I checked the 66 service manual, as I recall, it was as you stated. The only thing I can think that would make a difference, if the earlier bearings were ball bearings as opposed to tapered, but I don't think that's the case. Ball bearings take more preload.

 

The reason you tighten is to assure there is no clearance. I have since the beginning of time put a large vise grip on the adjusting nut, tightened until it dragged a little to the touch, and backed it off til it was free, then repeat once or twice. Then I just play with the adjustment until I feel it is "0". If the lock doesn't line up loosen until it does. Has worked for me for 50+ years.

Eric

 

Look carefully at the section of the manual those numbers are from and the task itself.

The higher torque spec is most likely for replacement of bearing and race (new); the lower torque spec is the figure used when performing a maintenance inspection & repack and re-installation of a used set. There are similar #s in my '64 manual. If the higher torque is inadvertently used on a used bearing set there may well be smoked spindles & much unpleasantness. I can see how this could cause trouble. Most new bearing sets are probably installed too "loose" according to bearing manufacturers but, they don't seize up if installed slightly loose either.

There isn't any preload on a tapered wheel bearing if you want to get technical. If you want to get really picky, use a dial indicator on the wheel to set them. Nobody does this, or they'd never get anything done and the boss would fire them. I think the difficulty lies in actually writing up a procedure that will work, when as mentioned it's kind of a "feel" thing.

If good quality bearings are installed correctly they last a LONG time. They usually aren't, though again a little loose is waaay better than too tight. You can install a new bearing and race set a little tighter than a worn used set. Just that one time. After that the "17-25 ft/lbs while spinning the wheel, back off a castellation" will work. Always replace the bearing race together along with the bearing itself, and it will run really smooth.

 

The reason I brought this up is precisely because of the different methods. There are those who do it by feel which may not work for a first timer who has yet to acquire "the feel". Then there are those who say to use the manual which would seem pretty straightforward. Now I don't have a 66 truck so no 66 manual. Mine is 65 consequently the 65 manual and in Vol. 1 page 3-44 it clearly states 50-80 ft/lbs. Now just prior to that the talk was about installing bearings AND new races so apparently all new. At no time was there any comments about readjusting older bearings say if you took off the assembly to do your front brakes.

Now go to page 2-8 where we are dealing with common adjustments of the brakes. The interesting thing is that brake drum repair is for 250 through 1100 series truck with no mention of the 100 series at all. That was a strange omission. The instructions for putting the wheel/hub assembly back on call for the same 50-80 ft/lbs as on page 3-44.

Of course I last did this back in 2008 and can't recall which way I did it but I know I didn't go to 50-80 ft/lbs. It was probably at the lower values which were seen in the car manuals. Anyway I can see how this can confuse those new to these trucks and will probably continue to do so every time someone new to these trucks buys one.

Edit: looked at my Ford 67 and 68 car manuals and both state 17-25ft/lbs for the car drums.

 

I used the the higher torque value on the front axle of my 64 after replacing both outer and inner bearing & race sets, seals, etc in the hubs with new SKF. I have this weird notion that for the most part, the manuals and bearing manufacturers are not wrong. I will say I didn't get anywhere near the 50 ft/lbs while spinning, before the wheel locked up. All the verbiage and instruction and torque and spinning the wheel stuff is just trying to describe a perfect "not too tight not too loose" or 0 preload. They run very smooth. Slightly loose bearings won't seize but they won't last as long as they might. Slightly tight bearings means one highly pissed off customer in just a few miles. If you're really picky, use a dial indicator. Can't get any better than that.

 

I was still able to turn my drums at 50 lbs.

 

Ted I'm with ya. I don't adjust without the wheel on. I roll the wheel while running the nut in until it slows down. Then, without the wheel rolling, back the nut off until there is play in the hub. Test the slop at the axle nut and hub with your finger while shaking the wheel. Works every time.The sweet spot is half way between slow down and slop.