Hi all, new here with new project. FTE looks like a great place and helpful bunch who know their stuff.

I just drug my project 65 F100 home a long week ago. My current vehicles are 2007 Ranger daily driver, and 2001 F350 diesel DRW for hauling. This new project might be me chasing my fleeting youth, as I owned one very like this back in the mid 70's...Boy howdy I loved that little blue truck.

Anyhow, I got it running a few days ago, seems pretty sound for a truck been sitting 6 years. In my enthsiasm I forgot my basics. I forgot to remove battery cable while pulling out an old ampmeter hanging under dash and the wire shorted, full ground on the access hole in the firewall. Now no start, no nothing. Thinking I mighta fried the key switch. Anyone know which is the hot wire to key switch? When I turn key there is nothing at all, And with the key on, there is no voltage at the solenoid post that normally works off the key switch..I think.

Wondering if there are any wiring schematics or such that might help steer me right around this issue I've created.

Thanks ahead and I'll post a pic or two when I can figure that out.

 

Welcome this might help.

1965 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams - FORDification.info - The '61-'66 Ford Pickup Resource

 

Thanks so much. At least now I have a map ..

 

Progress being made. Got her running again with some wire tracing and a new ignition switch. The wiring has not been too severely molested over the years but some very odd cutting and splicing.

I've got the dash out, and also replaced the light switch and now have headlights and tailights. brake and signal not working so that and the gauges are the current focus.

What is the best way to clean the various barrel connectors and threaded post on connectors? Spray with wd40? A tiny brush to ream them out? Mild corrosion every where.

Still haven't figured out how to post pics.

 

Stop by your local hobby shop or home center and pick up a few shapes of wire brushes for a dremel hobby tool. Depending on whether you’re working under the dash or on a workbench.....I chuck them in my bench grinder and wire brush the male connectors and use a cotton tip (like docs use) with abrasive for the females. You should be able to find brass brushes to suit either. Use them in a Dremel, if you have one, or in a bench grinder chuck or drill. Don’t bother with wd-40. Get a good contact cleaner/deoxidizer. I like “De-ox-it”. You can find it online, or your auto supply probably has CRC contact cleaner. I also like to smear a little dielectric grease on the connector upon reassembly. It promotes contact, seals out moisture and makes the connectors easier to put together or take apart. Any questionable wiring, repair with solder and heat shrink tubing. Stay away from crimp connectors, unless you solder them on. Marine grade, adhesive lined hear shrink tubing is best. Do it right the first time and avoid having to trouble shoot later. Make sure all your grounds are solid and on clean metal. One more....sometimes its hard to solder old wiring as it gets oxidized...it will look green. You may have to clean it well or splay the wire flat and hit it with some emery paper to get the solder to flow. That’s all!!

 

Almost every harness is available in reproduction. I would replace all the under hood harnesses. You will spend a ton of time trying to clean a 50+ year old harness and still have brittle insulation and corrosion in hard to reach places. If your budget won't allow replacing all of them at once, start with the engine gauge feed and alternator harnesses so at least it won't leave you stranded somewhere.

 

Thanks Resonator. Great tips. They'll be a real help. no crimp but solder and heat shrink. Glad to learn there is De-ox-it available I'll sure grab some.

 

That might be a real good idea 66v8baby. The insulation is quite brittle on much under the hood.