Could someone give me links to steps to replace all the brake fluid in the truck? Also, what's the recommended fluid and amount for full replacement? Thanks.

 

It is actually pretty simple and even more simplified if you have an air bleeder....but if you don't it is still easy but more time consuming.

If you are doing it the old fashioned way go buy two large bottles of DOT4 brake fluid (make sure its the same in the reservoir), find a friend and start bleeding as you fill.

Start with the right rear caliper and bleed until it is clear, as you are filling the master cylinder. DO NOT let the master go dry or you are somewhat fkd, as some ABS pumps require OBD connected software to allow the pump to cycle for proper bleeding. Repeat this for the left rear, right front and finish with the left front. The object is to start with the furthest and work toward the closest.

Hopefully you know how to bleed brakes, if not look it up and I am sure you can handle the job

Good Luck

 

This is what I use. I start with pulling all of the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill it back up with new then start with the furthest wheel from the reservoir and work my way to the closest. Worth every penny.

https://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv7300.aspx

 

Good catch Shaneb75....forgot to mention the removal of old fluid prior to starting...thanks

 

Yes sir!

I’ve done a few cars that you can’t evacuate the reservoir because of the design, but when I can, I do.

 

After a full set of calipers and 2 sets on the rear, I did the above and haven't had a problem since.

I used a mityvac.

 

Do we need to concern about air trap mentioned in the previous post?

About the two large bottles, sorry I have to ask, but what is the size of each large bottle?

 

DOT 3 is the factory fill brake fluid. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point initially, but falls quicker then 3, and if you are not going to keep flipping fluid every few years, it’s not going to make a difference. They can get mixed just like oils. It’s only the true silicone fluid that needs a wash out if used, but few use that outside of show vehicles. DOT 4 is good if you are worried about trailer brake failure, but for normal day to day, the brakes on these trucks have been designed for DOT 3.

Air entrapment in the ABS controller is a PITA if you don’t have software to engage the pump and cycle the valves, purge the accumulator.

 

As long as you keep the reservoir full you should have any issues, at least I haven’t.

 

If you are manually pushing the brake pedal to bleed, you want to keep the range of motion limited to the normal travel. Over the decades one of the highest failures I’ve assisted on has been pedal to floor after bleeding the brakes, the internal seal in the master cylinder damaged from going deeper into the bore that’s seldom traveled, roughened by corrosion.

 

Good point, our trucks aren't getting younger. I suspect it's what happened when someone put new calipers on for me - I didn't have the time - and ended up changing the master cylinder. At least I did that myself so all was well 😀

 

Back at the test facility we never, never had that issue, and our normal course for decades was to do the two-person manual bleed, and we even did that after we acquired both NGS and IDS so we could use the ABS to one person bleed.

The primary reason we never had the issue was due to we constantly ran brake tests on the vehicles. In a "program" the vehicles would have a full caliper brake change every 4 days, or every 12 days. There's not much time for the moisture to accumulate in the fluid and corrosion to develop in the masters. Secondarily, part of the testing was to perform failed system tests, where the brake line would be bypassed to return directly to the master reservoir. So we always had deep travel. Vehicles did have parking lot time, but it would be rare to sit for more than a year without a brake change.

The point of the story, in the US the population is woefully negligent in brake fluid maintenance that would prevent corrosion in the master cylinder bore area. So it becomes a condition where travel in the corroded area can damage the master cylinder seals. So a deep bleed fails the part.

But there is another possibility based on the accident reconstruction work I did decades ago. A deep dive into the pedal during an emergency stop can develop into a slow loss of fluid in one or both circuits just at the moment when you really, really need integrity.

A routine changing of the brake fluid, or the investment of a new master cylinder every dozen years takes some work, but it shouldn't be so foreign for such a critical component of vehicle safety. It won't occur often, a very slight change, but you don't want to be "that guy".

 

Is that 2 quarts (32oz)? And is that enough for a crewcab with long bed (170 inch wheel base IIRC)?

 

Every time I have done mine one quart just to full the reservoir and then one quart to get all the old stuff out.
So pick 2 or 3 quarts and you will want to remove the screen on the reservoir so you can suck all the old fluid out.
That way your not mixing old nasty with fresh clean.

One very handy tool is the vacuum bleeder and you can get it at Harbor Freight.

 

X2 on the vacuum bleeder, once used you'll never need your wife again 😁