Do you have an OBD scanner? Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/hardwired either will work. Most people here use Torque Pro on an android tablet or ForScan on Windows laptop or iPhone. You may want to check for code and also gather some additional information.

 

I didn't mean to say "cancel" but rather reset the Pat's system. Hindsite I no longer think that's what's going on.

the batteries are being charged just to make sure. I am going to add oil to bring that level up. I am also going to change the fuel filter today. We'll see if those items help....

the neutral safety switch?

 

NSS - Neutral Safety Switch. I may be using the incorrect term relative to the Ford Diesels. But, IIRC, this is what reports the gear position to the PCM. If the PCM doesn't receive the correct signal, it will prevent the engine from starting. Not sure if an incorrect P/N signal allows/prevents the crank.

Without looking into possible faults from the codes in the PCM, I am running out of ideas and will call on my gurus @Nicmike @Toreador_Diesel @Mark Kovalsky to provide additional diagnostic help.

 

Absolutely wrong. No matter what the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor, sometimes incorrectly called the Neutral Safety Switch) is showing or not showing the trans will engage drive or reverse. If the TRS is failed the engagement may be harsh, but it will still engage. It CANNOT be the TRS.

I do see in a later post where the cable was disconnected, causing the no engagement.

If the TRS (not NSS) does not show park or neutral there will be no crank.

I saw that in the original post it was cranking but not starting. Is that still the case, or is it now not cranking?

 

@Mark Kovalsky Thanks for correcting me. From the videos and description that @Swaybar1 (OP) has posted, he does have a crank.

 

If it is cranking then the problem is not in the transmission or any transmission sensor. The only way the trans affects the start is to prevent cranking when not in park or neutral.

 

Have you tried pushing the shifter up when trying to start? That happens on my '01, I need to replace the shift bushings and maybe tighten that screw again.

 

With the batteries at 12.09 and 12.1 volts you will not be above 10 volts when cranking. Healthy batteries should read 12.6 volts when measured while disconnected from the truck. You might be able to start with 12.4 volts, but it will be iffy. The glow plugs on the 7.3 PLUS the demand for high amps down at the starter make healthy batteries an absolute requirement on these things.

If you are not above 10 volts while cranking, your computer will not tell the IDM to fire the injectors, and you will have a crank with no start.

 

First, thank you all for the input as it is greatly appreciated. It has been a while since I have owned a 7.3 L so I'm just trying to get a custom to this one again. The vehicle was running when I arrived. The selector would not allow for it to be put in drive or any other position but you could move it and it was all free play. In other words nothing would engage. Initially I thought it was just a cable under the dash so I remove the covers and then the bottom fuse cover and fuse block to get a better vantage point. The vehicle was running so I turned it off. I saw one cable that was off and I'm not sure why but after reattaching I went to start the vehicle again and it started. After putting everything back together I went to start the vehicle again to test the selector but the vehicle would only turn over it would not start and when I went to move the selector there was still free play without engagement. Later I went back to the vehicle ( because it is not currently parked at my house), after much brain fartage, I thought to look under the vehicle and saw the linkage was not connected. Of course, when I went to move it it moved all the way one direction and then I went back to move it and it moved all the way back but finally I was able to connect the two ( maybe there is where I am messed up).

Currently the vehicle turns over fine but will not start.

The batteries are charging and I am fixing to bring them back, I have oil to add, and I also will be picking up a fuel filter to change that as well.

Please let me know if y'all have anymore questions or need anything clarified… And I will try to get things out there as quickly as possible.

It's hot here in Louisiana and the wife is about to kill me if I don't get her car started.🤔😳😂

 

Added oil, after charging both batteries, they were hooked up, and I hooked up an innovative 3030 OBD scanner which found no issues.

It turns over great but won't start. It is on a slightly upward incline.

 

Finally was able to have the Exc towed home. Still turns over but won't start. Any ideas are appreciated 👍

 

Change the camshaft position sensor this morning but the vehicle still will not start… Can't figure it out for the life of me. I did spray a wisp of starter fluid into the intake and it briefly started but quickly went out .

 

Do you have adequate fuel?

Can you hear the fuel pump running at key on?

Are you getting fuel to the filter?

 

So, the other day I changed oil and fuel filter. When I changed the fuel filter there was fuel in the bowl. I also went under the vehicle at the drivers side and found and checked voltage to the fuel pump when the key was turned. The pump came on with a bit of a gravely tone sounded like it was working fine. Today I changed the cam shaft sensor with no luck. I checked the injector control pressure sensor. I thought when it was disconnected that the vehicle would still start and run-just rough. Mine would not start and produced a code of P1280. There was oil in the sensor which I'm not sure it that is supposed to be there....

 

I have read somewhere here on the FTE that starter fluid is a big no-no. Just FYI. Your results may vary. The 1280 is an ICP / IPR related code. Have you checked the IPR yet? it is located below and behind the HPOP reservoir somewhere in the middle of the valley.

Found this picture on the FTE as well.