Yes. I had that same post bookmarked for my reference

 

@Swaybar1 Have you tried unplugging your fuel bowl heater plug? Mine is unplugged. You may not need it in LA either. Here's a thread from last year when I went through a long drawn troubleshooting and fix. If this is PATS related, this should give you an idea of what code the theft light is indicating.

 

Here is a video of what is flashing without the key in the ignition.

 

I just walked out to look at mine, and it is the normal operation of the theft light. It will keep blinking at that frequency all the time when the keys is out.

If you have rapid blinking when you turn the key to the on position and before you try to start the vehicle, then there might be a PATS related issue. Can you post a video of what it does from the point you inset the key to the point that you try to start cranking and it doesn't turn over. Outside of this being a PATS related issue, here are some things that you can check, if not done already.

- Battery voltage - preferably both batteries should be above 12.4V
- Oil level - The HEUI injectors need the hydraulics to fire
- Fuel Pump - Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key and are waiting to start?
- Fuel pressure in the bowl - turn the yellow **** behind the bowl and Diesel should pour out from behind the engine to the ground.
- Fuel filter - Do you know when it was replaced? Have you opened it to see that it is not clogged up?
- CPS - Do you know when it was last replaced?
- ICP - Have you tried to unplug the ICP sensor and tried to start it? If there's oil inside the sensor wires, then you need to replace the ICP.

PS: If you are replacing any of the sensors, please get the Motorcraft branded replacements. Our 7.3's are a brand conscious about these sensors

Here are some reference diagrams.


This is the back of the Fuel Bowl.

This should give you an idea of the Sensor locations.

 

This is what it looks like when the key is put in in the vehicle it started.

The theft light goes away.

Number 30 fuse was checked.

 

Looking at both videos, I do not think this is a PATS issue at all. Check the items that I have mentioned in my previous post. The other question then would be if you have any water intrusion into the IDM.

 

Scenario yesterday: I got the call that the vehicle would not go into Drive/reverse after parking. This was also after driving it for a good portion of the day. The vehicle was idling when I arrived to check out the steering cable and different items associated with steering to see if I could quickly fix the problem. My wife turned off the car and I unscrewed the fuse block to get a better vantage point at looking at the steering column and cable. After finding out what was the problem with the selector I didn't put things back together and the vehicle wouldn't start from there. I'm not sure if I blew a fuse or if maybe disconnecting the batteries had something to do with it but I will be bringing the batteries home to charge .

Regarding the earlier post :
- Battery voltage - preferably both batteries should be above 12.4V -12.09 on the passenger side battery
And 12.10 on the driver side battery

- Oil level - The HEUI injectors need the hydraulics to fire - currently oil is found to be at the bottom of the operation level

- Fuel Pump - Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key and are waiting to start? I'm not sure on the fuel pump but there is a hog sound that I always thought was the fuel pump priming

- Fuel pressure in the bowl - turn the yellow **** behind the bowl and Diesel should pour out from behind the engine to the ground. I heard a trickle noise but not much pressure, did CD so on the ground and can smell it

- Fuel filter - Do you know when it was replaced? Have you opened it to see that it is not clogged up?

- CPS - Do you know when it was last replaced? I'm not sure what this is but also we purchased this vehicle with in the last eight months so I'm not sure when it was replaced

- ICP - Have you tried to unplug the ICP sensor and tried to start it? If there's oil inside the sensor wires, then you need to replace the ICP. I'm not sure what or where this is and when it was replaced last but of course I would always use Motorcraft products on this vehicle

PS: If you are replacing any of the sensors, please get the Motorcraft branded replacements. Our 7.3's are a brand conscious about these sensors

Here are some reference diagrams.


This is the back of the Fuel Bowl.

This should give you an idea of the Sensor locations.

 

The hog snort/fart sound is from the ABS module. The fuel pump should be a constant hiss/mild buzz kinda sound. When you turn the key on it should run for about 15-20 seconds then stop . The pump is on the inboard side of the frame rail near the driver's door, get down there and see if you hear it.

What area are you in?

 

What was the problem with the gear selector?

This looks to be a good battery.


If the oil level is closer to the bottom of the hash marks, you might want to add some oil to bring up the level. From what I've read / experienced, these engines need to be kept topped up to correct levels of oil to ensure the injectors have enough oil pressure to operate.

As mentioned, the hog/snort sound is not the fuel pump. Open the hood and then you can hear the fuel pump relay (located on the passenger side inner fender just past the battery) rattling off till the bowl is primed. Depending on the supply and condition of the filter, it might run for a while till the bowl fills up.

This is usually the first place to start troubleshooting.

 

What directions? Where are you reading you can cancel the PATS on the Excursion?

Stewart

 

I'm guessing he read about 'resetting' the PATS. I don't remember the procedure, but I had to do it a few times when I changed tunes using a SuperChips 1705. It's a key cycling thing like so many seconds off then on or some kinda thing like that. If there actually is a way to cancel it I'd love to know, as would the rest of the Ford enthusiast world.

 

Quoting Mike's post of things to check from another thread in the 7.3 forum for your reference. You need enough oil pressure (IIRC 500psi minimum) to get those injectors going. Also, since you mentioned that the EX was not going into Drive/Reverse, this may be an indication of a failed Transmission Position Sensor/Neutral Safety Switch. Also, have you tried to start the truck in Neutral? If this is true, then you might have a loose Torx bolt in your column shifter. Here's a video on how to fix this.

 

Scenario yesterday: I got the call that the vehicle would not go into Drive/reverse after parking. This was also after driving it for a good portion of the day. The vehicle was idling when I arrived to check out the steering cable and different items associated with steering to see if I could quickly fix the problem. My wife turned off the car and I unscrewed the fuse block to get a better vantage point at looking at the steering column and cable. After finding out what was the problem with the selector I didn't put things back together and the vehicle wouldn't start from there. I'm not sure if I blew a fuse or if maybe disconnecting the batteries had something to do with it but I will be bringing the batteries home to charge .

Regarding the earlier post :
- Battery voltage - preferably both batteries should be above 12.4V -12.09 on the passenger side battery
And 12.10 on the driver side battery

- Oil level - The HEUI injectors need the hydraulics to fire - currently oil is found to be at the bottom of the operation level

- Fuel Pump - Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key and are waiting to start? I'm not sure on the fuel pump but there is a hog sound that I always thought was the fuel pump priming

- Fuel pressure in the bowl - turn the yellow **** behind the bowl and Diesel should pour out from behind the engine to the ground. I heard a trickle noise but not much pressure, did CD so on the ground and can smell it

- Fuel filter - Do you know when it was replaced? Have you opened it to see that it is not clogged up?

- CPS - Do you know when it was last replaced? I'm not sure what this is but also we purchased this vehicle with in the last eight months so I'm not sure when it was replaced

- ICP - Have you tried to unplug the ICP sensor and tried to start it? If there's oil inside the sensor wires, then you need to replace the ICP. I'm not sure what or where this is and when it was replaced last but of course I would always use Motorcraft products on this vehicle

PS: If you are replacing any of the sensors, please get the Motorcraft branded replacements. Our 7.3's are a brand conscious about these sensors

Here are some reference diagrams.


This is the back of the Fuel Bowl.

This should give you an idea of the Sensor locations.

 

The reason it could not go into drive was because the linkage below had come off. After I reattached it it went through the positions fine. I did try to start it in neutral with the same results.

 

Sorry for the double reply. When I picked up my phone it showed that the reply had not submitted so I hit submit again.