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Motor mount replacement.

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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
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Motor mount replacement.

I am replacing the motor mounts on my 78 F150 Supercab 2WD with a 460 motor. I knew it would take some time and effort, but it looks as if I need to disconnect the tyranny to be able to get the motor high enough to get the mounts to clear the cross member mounts and the portion bolted to the block. While at it I want to install a high volume oil pump. I have done a number of these in the past on other vehicles but have never had to pull the motor to change the mounts. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 04:06 PM
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I can't say for sure on a 2wd but I would think it would be the same as a 4wd.

I unbolt both mounts and lift the engine up and change them. often you have to take the fan shroud loose but other than that it's pretty simple. the tranny mount is so far back all it does is keep things in place.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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Perches

Thanks for your response. After looking a little more closely at my truck oh, I noticed that I can actually unbolt the motor mount perches from the truck frame. This looks like it would enable me to slide the perches out of the way and drop the motor mounts oh, so that I may install the new ones. I'll let you know on my progress and results
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 07:25 PM
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I replaced my mounts when I did my Crown Vic Swap. Do not order them online!! The Anchor brand is the only one available. Other ones are just the same part with different packaging. Have your local auto parts store order as many as they can, and pick the best two. I had them order 10, and many of them were not fully welded, or the rubber part was crooked.

 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 08:38 PM
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Motor mounts

Thanks for your response. I looked at your photo and could see that one was tack welded and the other was welded for quite a bit. In checking mine, I found both were tack welded, however one of the tack welds had broke on one of them and the bolt holes between the two metal pieces were not in alignment. It looks as if I could just straighten that and re weld it. What do the tack welds do? Just position the two parts so that you can get the bolt through? It looks as if once the bolt is through both metal parts of the mount it can't go anywhere. Both of my rubber parts are in the correct position. Do I need to have longer continuous welds on all sides? Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the rubber block? Should those two pieces even be welded together?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 10:10 PM
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Once the bolts are in the weld doesn't mean much. I don't have one of those mounts in front of me but most of the time that style mount bolts into the rubber block in the middle and thats where the cushion comes in. it's not simply a top and a bottom.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 10:29 PM
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As original:

6028/6029 are the engine supports aka towers/stands/perches. 6038 are the steel/rubber insulators.

6030/6031 are brackets that bolt to the block, the 6038 insulators bolt to these, then to 6028/6029 engine supports.

Upper pic, click on it twice to expand it:

 
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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 07:30 AM
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On my 77 I have to do just one side at a time to get them in or out. I found that if you leave one side with the bolt thru it then the engine will tilt enough to get the center mount out where as if both are loose it won't go high enough to get either one out..
 
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