When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
F250 1994 Love this truck. Drove it home one friday, On Monday no go. Plenty of kick, just does not start. almost like a fuel pump issue. Except I have 2 tanks that were working on friday.
I replaced a few parts, throttle body, starter solenoid, I get plenty of kick no start. I did spray some starter fluid into the throttle body and try to start it. It spits and rumbles and starts just to burn the fluid out.
Could the switch between the tanks just go? Bot fuel pumps? or is something wrong with the starter solenoid and the way its hooked up?
The starter relay on the fender just turns power on to the starter solenoid that cranks the engine and has nothing to do with the running of the engine,
The starter solenoid down on the starter also just cranks the engine.
The wires (fuse links) on the starter relay must be on the battery side for the engine to start an run.
Do you hear either selected fuel pump run for one second each time the key is turned to the run position?
Quick Update. Still No Go. All year fight issues. I gave it a tune up New plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Started right up ran for 5 minutes idled right at 1000/1100/ then started droppin nfrom 400-900 with a check engine light.
Finally decided to pull the PCM board. 3 blue capictors 3 yellow ones. 1 bule one fell off, the other 2 have 1 broken leg. the 3 yellow ones seem fine. I am beginning to think the PCM board has been my problem all along. So I am now looking for a PCM board. I can replace the blue ones but I kind of fell like I might put it back and then need to pull it after something else fails.
Finally decided to pull the PCM board. 3 blue capacitors 3 yellow ones. 1 blue one fell off, the other 2 have 1 broken leg. the 3 yellow ones seem fine. I am beginning to think the PCM board has been my problem all along. So I am now looking for a PCM board. I can replace the blue ones but I kind of fell like I might put it back and then need to pull it after something else fails.
Those are electrolytic capacitors, filled with a paste. They dry out and short. Sometimes they leak, more often than not they don't, though they are almost certainly defective by now (or soon will be) and should always be replaced on sight even if they aren't spewing their guts out. They are well over 25 years old, they are sort of like rechargeable batteries if you want to look at them that way for simplicities sake, they can't hold a "charge" anymore. This is kind of a rolling issue now, because the more modern trucks have a passle of electronic gee-gaws in them starting in the mid 1980s or so. Anything with electrolytic capacitors is prone to failure once they push 10+ years or so. The capacitors are inexpensive, but when they fail they can fry other components that are proprietary unobtanium chips and ICs.
I think thats why I am just gonna replace the whole thing. The board is black all around where they were sotered and I am afraid I would miss some thing. Gonna try to find a remanufactured and tested one. I am just hopefule this will get rid of CEL and the truck will run right,
Taking the time and the jump to order a PCM board from Car exchange. Worked like a champ. The board corrected all issues. The Idle the start up everything.
Drving it to work on Monday. Buttoned it up in the Am and probably washing it. Man
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.