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Hello everyone i am back. Just wanted to give anyone interested im currently doing a "Performance" V10 build that I will keep everyone updated on
Just got the block back from powder coating so moving onto machine work today but here's some of the things that will be done
Ported heads with bigger stainless valves and 5 angle valve job
Reground cams "Still tiny little things"
GT500 rcokers with heavier springs
Performance cast flat tops raising the compression up to 11:1
Forged Manley rods with full bottom end ARP hardware
Dynamic balanced rotating assembly
Headers and custom exhaust
Bigger throttle body
Water/Meth injection to keep the timing in it on pump
and last but not least the stock **** intake manifold.....God I sure hope it lets the heads breathe well enough to make use of my porting...doubt it but we will see.
Interested in how the balance shaft should be re-weighted to accommodate the aftermarket pistons and rods. Or does it? Can a V10 be dynamically balanced or just statically balanced?
Interested in how the balance shaft should be re-weighted to accommodate the aftermarket pistons and rods. Or does it? Can a V10 be dynamically balanced or just statically balanced?
What injectors are you going to use?
You can dynamically balance almost any engine that I'm aware of, as far as the balance shaft I believe theres room for weight difference. If I was going with a much heavier or lighter crank and rotating assembly it could throw it off. But I believe I'm only loosing 2 pounds or so off the whole system and it will be much more balanced on it's own vs factory detriot balancing
As far as injectors I believe stock ones will handle 400-450hp NA, if I was making that power boosted I would need new ones due to richer AFRS to keep the boost effective. But who knows, if I need to change them then I will just buy some Ford racing ones.
So I have a question about your align boring---did you use the stock TTY bolts torqued to spec and does that require a second set of new bolts when the crank is installed for final assembly?
So I have a question about your align boring---did you use the stock TTY bolts torqued to spec and does that require a second set of new bolts when the crank is installed for final assembly?
No i used ARP main and side bolts, but yeah if you used factory bolts you would need a second set or maybe even a third if the block doesn't clean on the first go
I will try to post some pics of the port work I have done to the cylinder heads, Got in all the parts so just left with labor, Had to sleeve 1 hole due to the boring bar messing up.
How did you devise what to remove or how to better shape the ports for your anticipated performance improvements?
Will you be testing your modifications on any sort of flow bench? Do they still do that?
I wish I had a flow bench then I could really define each port and definitely make a bigger gain, Only 1 place where I live has one but its broken.
I worked on the areas that provide the most restriction in the port and provide a straighter approach to the valve, Overall port size stayed the same but the right wall covers the valve pretty bad so straightening it would make the most sense so the air has a better shot to the valve, On the roof theres the cast bump for the lifter bore that would disturb airflow on the long radius so knocking that down should help, Then bowl work removing material and doing a radius cut would let the air flow smoother around the valve and into the cylinder, followed by bigger valves and a 5 angle cut there should be a nice bump in airflow.
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