Performance 2V V10
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Just spit ballin'---I know it'll be an interesting thread regardless where its posted!
New User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
2000 V10 6.8l rebuild
I was reading another post about a v10 rebuild in June this year and I wish I started my rebuild then. I got a used 2005 F250 XLT with frozen 5.4 and decided to drop a V10 in. Got a 2000 used with 290000 miles so I started rebuilding it. Got new pistons, lifters, camshafts, etc..everywhere it looked like it needed work. Totally cleaned the thing and started putting it together. Crankshaft is hard or impossible to turn now. Was okay before dismantle.. Took out the new bearings and put the old ones back in. They look good anyway. Still very tight. I need a book, workshop manual. I need help.
Anyone have an idea why the crankshaft tight even with the original bearings?
Yep, will need new bearing cap bolts as I tightened to stretch limit. I DID NOT tighten the piston rod bolts, have removed all pistons, just have the crankshaft in.
Anyone have an idea why the crankshaft tight even with the original bearings?
Yep, will need new bearing cap bolts as I tightened to stretch limit. I DID NOT tighten the piston rod bolts, have removed all pistons, just have the crankshaft in.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
I was reading another post about a v10 rebuild in June this year and I wish I started my rebuild then. I got a used 2005 F250 XLT with frozen 5.4 and decided to drop a V10 in. Got a 2000 used with 290000 miles so I started rebuilding it. Got new pistons, lifters, camshafts, etc..everywhere it looked like it needed work. Totally cleaned the thing and started putting it together. Crankshaft is hard or impossible to turn now. Was okay before dismantle.. Took out the new bearings and put the old ones back in. They look good anyway. Still very tight. I need a book, workshop manual. I need help.
Anyone have an idea why the crankshaft tight even with the original bearings?
Yep, will need new bearing cap bolts as I tightened to stretch limit. I DID NOT tighten the piston rod bolts, have removed all pistons, just have the crankshaft in.
Anyone have an idea why the crankshaft tight even with the original bearings?
Yep, will need new bearing cap bolts as I tightened to stretch limit. I DID NOT tighten the piston rod bolts, have removed all pistons, just have the crankshaft in.
Definitely gotta haVe new rod and main cap bolts. And headbolts. The reason the crank is tight is probably due to maincap alignment. All All alignment studs should push in by hand or atleast very easy. Side bolts go in and get torqued then top bolts. Hope this helps
New User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
Crankshaft tight
Thanks for the fast reply! Guide pins very hard to install, #4 cap very tight going in and out. Did not think about alignment. Thanks for the hint on that. I thought the guide pins validated alignment.. I was also reading about "crush" and was thinking my new bearings were just too long and I should shave the ends a bit or use shims. I saw a mention of shims on a Clevits site. NO mention of crush or shims on any Ford site. I am going to use a feeler guage to check for crush height with the caps finger tight.
Thanks Again
Thanks Again
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
Thanks for the fast reply! Guide pins very hard to install, #4 cap very tight going in and out. Did not think about alignment. Thanks for the hint on that. I thought the guide pins validated alignment.. I was also reading about "crush" and was thinking my new bearings were just too long and I should shave the ends a bit or use shims. I saw a mention of shims on a Clevits site. NO mention of crush or shims on any Ford site. I am going to use a feeler guage to check for crush height with the caps finger tight.
Thanks Again
Thanks Again
Absolutely never file the bearing ends, I've never ever seen the need for that even on low quality bearings, fast way to spin a journal. There's a 70% chance it's cap alinement, 20% you have super tight clearance which is doubtful since for allows .0008-.0022, 8% chance the block is distorted and a 2% chance it's bad bearings, toss them and buy new ones if that's the case don't modify them
New User
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
How did you balance the crank? Pr did y9u remove pisyon and rod weight to get it close to factory weights? If removing weight off of pistons, where did you shave from?
I am assembling a pi 2v v10 with 7 cc pistons for 10:1 static using the factory rods and the new pistons are 30g each heavier than the old ones. Nit sure if i shoudl dynafile casting flash off the bottom of the new pistons or try and find a shop willing to attempt a split pin crank balance.
I am assembling a pi 2v v10 with 7 cc pistons for 10:1 static using the factory rods and the new pistons are 30g each heavier than the old ones. Nit sure if i shoudl dynafile casting flash off the bottom of the new pistons or try and find a shop willing to attempt a split pin crank balance.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
How did you balance the crank? <acronym title="Page Ranking">Pr</acronym> did y9u remove pisyon and rod weight to get it close to factory weights? If removing weight off of pistons, where did you shave from?
I am assembling a pi 2v v10 with 7 cc pistons for 10:1 static using the factory rods and the new pistons are 30g each heavier than the old ones. Nit sure if i shoudl dynafile casting flash off the bottom of the new pistons or try and find a shop willing to attempt a split pin crank balance.
I am assembling a pi 2v v10 with 7 cc pistons for 10:1 static using the factory rods and the new pistons are 30g each heavier than the old ones. Nit sure if i shoudl dynafile casting flash off the bottom of the new pistons or try and find a shop willing to attempt a split pin crank balance.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Here's what I would do. Match your rods and pistons nice and close to the lightest ones +- .5 grams, have a shop check SE and BE and get those matched aswell. I pulled weight off my pistons from the top (technically underside) of the pin bosses. Typically you can do about 2 grams off them. For the crankshaft yes it should be balanced and there's a shop in Colorado called Denver Balanacing. I just got back this morning having him do my crankshaft and he has no problems with split pins.
are you still rocking the balance shaft? Or is your plan to delete that?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
Yep balance shaft will stay, i don't see a point in removing it. The smoother it runs the better
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
Still in the works, doing a standalone setup on the truck for better tuning. Trans is done, Engines head are getting finished soon, Been busy with my 6.7 and Maverick.
MUST GO FASTER!!!!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 356
From: Arizona
If you're looking for ideas of how to get more power out of the V10 you might check out the build in my signature which is titled dauntless.
You might also check out this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20508632
You might also check out this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20508632
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 130
Likes: 12
From: Usa
If you're looking for ideas of how to get more power out of the V10 you might check out the build in my signature which is titled dauntless.
You might also check out this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20508632
You might also check out this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20508632