Stumped need help.
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Freshman User
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I'll also tell ya that connector that plugs on to the head light switch is no fun either, they are known to Fry but fortunately you can get the replacement Pig Tail for it.
IF you are into the Dash I would sure inspect it while you are there.
here is a help link on that one IF you are interested.... https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...placement.html
I know this is off topic but that Black/Orange wire we have been chasing feeds fuse #4 also that goes to the Headlight switch
IF you are into the Dash I would sure inspect it while you are there.
here is a help link on that one IF you are interested.... https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...placement.html
I know this is off topic but that Black/Orange wire we have been chasing feeds fuse #4 also that goes to the Headlight switch
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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Fuse 'G' in the engine fuse box feeds the Ign Switch via the C202... fuse G also originates at the starter relay same as the other Fuse S, there are several wires on that relay and from that Relay Post it connects straight to the battery
I don't see why the IGN Switch would just now fail
I don't see why the IGN Switch would just now fail
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Freshman User
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Fuse 'G' in the engine fuse box feeds the Ign Switch via the C202... fuse G also originates at the starter relay same as the other Fuse S, there are several wires on that relay and from that Relay Post it connects straight to the battery
I don't see why the IGN Switch would just now fail
I don't see why the IGN Switch would just now fail
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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Me either. I'm so stumped on wtf just happened. I'm going to replace the ign cylinder. The black wire for the ign cyl was hanging and when I took the cylinder out there was a tiny silver color piece of metal hanging out in the slot. Looks important. Hopefully I've had enough hardship that this will solve the issue. The c202 was loose so I removed and inspected, then reinstalled. Now tight but still nada. Gonna replace the ign cylinder. If not maybe inspect the multi function switch in the column... idk any input helps.
there is a Gear and a Plastic Rack that operates the actual IGN Switch and it can be a bit of a problem to get installed right ....
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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getting the lock cylinder re installed is similar to this ..... https://www.fordf150.net/articles/id...9703-F150.html
but still IF you have the cylinder out you should be able to move the IGN Switch to whatever position you desire.
when ya put it together be sure it has plenty White Grease you sure don't want to break that plastic Rack, that is another can of worms you really don't want to open.
to install the lock cylinder the IGN switch needs to be in the RUN position.
but still IF you have the cylinder out you should be able to move the IGN Switch to whatever position you desire.
when ya put it together be sure it has plenty White Grease you sure don't want to break that plastic Rack, that is another can of worms you really don't want to open.
to install the lock cylinder the IGN switch needs to be in the RUN position.
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The ign switch is easy accessible on the bottom of the column. I just checked it out and all the connections look good. Do you think replacing the ign cyl is gonna help? Or you think I should remove and inspect c202 again? So crazy because before I cleaned fuse S my ign worked fine I could fire her right up. Just had the problems originally stated .
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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I would for sure inspect C202 again...... and right you can easy move the IGN switch from the bottom.
that bolt that holds it in can feel tight because the socket rubs on the plastic cover that protects the wires ... this is why I said a really Thin Walled socket is best for it
and being it is difficult to access .... well you know....
EDIT: Pretty much everything Goes thru C202.... I very seldom see the connectors fail but I have seen Mice make nests in that area and just Chew the Hell out of things...
And of course it goes without saying ... one should always disconnect the batteries before disconnecting and connecting C202, just for safety reasons you don't want anything to ARC and burn the connectors.
that bolt that holds it in can feel tight because the socket rubs on the plastic cover that protects the wires ... this is why I said a really Thin Walled socket is best for it
and being it is difficult to access .... well you know....
EDIT: Pretty much everything Goes thru C202.... I very seldom see the connectors fail but I have seen Mice make nests in that area and just Chew the Hell out of things...
And of course it goes without saying ... one should always disconnect the batteries before disconnecting and connecting C202, just for safety reasons you don't want anything to ARC and burn the connectors.
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Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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when I dig into the electrics I normally disconnect both Negative cables from the batteries... then IF I am probing a disconnected connector I just put the Passenger side battery negative back on .... I don't bother with the Driver side battery until the job is finished.
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Freshman User
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I would for sure inspect C202 again...... and right you can easy move the IGN switch from the bottom.
that bolt that holds it in can feel tight because the socket rubs on the plastic cover that protects the wires ... this is why I said a really Thin Walled socket is best for it
and being it is difficult to access .... well you know....
EDIT: Pretty much everything Goes thru C202.... I very seldom see the connectors fail but I have seen Mice make nests in that area and just Chew the Hell out of things...
And of course it goes without saying ... one should always disconnect the batteries before disconnecting and connecting C202, just for safety reasons you don't want anything to ARC and burn the connectors.
that bolt that holds it in can feel tight because the socket rubs on the plastic cover that protects the wires ... this is why I said a really Thin Walled socket is best for it
and being it is difficult to access .... well you know....
EDIT: Pretty much everything Goes thru C202.... I very seldom see the connectors fail but I have seen Mice make nests in that area and just Chew the Hell out of things...
And of course it goes without saying ... one should always disconnect the batteries before disconnecting and connecting C202, just for safety reasons you don't want anything to ARC and burn the connectors.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
IF not then I would inspect the Ignition Switch Connector and make sure I have 12 volts on the 2 large yellow wires from Fuse 'G'
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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you already made sure that the wires on the Starter Relay are all good and Clean, nothing else causes this problem that we haven't already covered unless I totally missed something.... this should have been fixed in the first couple posts.... but I know sometimes Chicken sometimes Feathers..... mostly Feathers 
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you already made sure that the wires on the Starter Relay are all good and Clean, nothing else causes this problem that we haven't already covered unless I totally missed something.... this should have been fixed in the first couple posts.... but I know sometimes Chicken sometimes Feathers..... mostly Feathers
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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HOk so, I accidentally put the G fuse in J, and S fuse in K. Put them in the correct place, now everything works fine. I feel like an idiot but not as much of an idiot as the engineer who decided to put that fuse box under the booster and master cylinder. Thanks again lone wolf. And if b.c. there is any way to reciprocate let me know.
well done ..EDIT: Ahh I see J is for Trailer battery Charge Relay and K is for Trailer backup and running lights Relays.
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