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Did what requested. 12v going all the way thru fuse s but no power to either side of fuse 8.
OK good now we are getting somewhere....from Fuse 'S' it runs thru the Wiring Harness to Connector C202 that is the Big one on the driver's side firewall from there the Black/Orange wire goes to the inside fuse box where it feeds Fuse #8 and also Fuse #16, fuse #4 and Circuit Breaker #12...
BUT your main problem is no power to Fuse #8 so I would inspect that connector C202 .. I'll see IF I have info on that connector (a Pinout)
OK good now we are getting somewhere....from Fuse 'S' it runs thru the Wiring Harness to Connector C202 that is the Big one on the driver's side firewall from there the Black/Orange wire goes to the inside fuse box where it feeds Fuse #8 and also Fuse #16, fuse #4 and Circuit Breaker #12...
BUT your main problem is no power to Fuse #8 so I would inspect that connector C202 .. I'll see IF I have info on that connector (a Pinout)
Where is fuse 8 grounded? I was always told a ground is usually what burns up.
Could I possibly run a jumper wire bypassing c202?
that's your Call.... all I can tell ya is that you are loosing 12v between Fuse 'S' and the Fuse Buss that Fuse #8 is on..
it only takes a 10mm deep socket to unscrew the C202 connector and who knows IF you wiggle the harness to it and the one from it going to the inside fuse box .... it might fix itself.
I generally recommend fixing instead of Bypassing
I would also pull Fuse 'S' and make sure the side going out is not fried.. burned or dirty fuse connector.
that's your Call.... all I can tell ya is that you are loosing 12v between Fuse 'S' and the Fuse Buss that Fuse #8 is on..
it only takes a 10mm deep socket to unscrew the C202 connector and who knows IF you wiggle the harness to it and the one from it going to the inside fuse box .... it might fix itself.
I generally recommend fixing instead of Bypassing
I would also pull Fuse 'S' and make sure the side going out is not fried.. burned or dirty fuse connector.
All pins visually look good. Pin 70 has 12v. That connector is a pain to access on an e350. You have to detach from the outside of the firewall. And there is so much in the way. Frame, exhaust manifold, fuse box, heat protecting Aluminum shield....
All pins visually look good. Pin 70 has 12v. That connector is a pain to access on an e350. You have to detach from the outside of the firewall. And there is so much in the way. Frame, exhaust manifold, fuse box, heat protecting Aluminum shield....
I hear you, it ain't fun in my F250 either you have to pull the driver's fender well loose, I thought the van was a bit higher up and easier..... but it is good that now you know that 12V is going thru the connector .... now ya just gotta find where it don't make it to the inside Fuse box.
I'll also tell ya that connector that plugs on to the head light switch is no fun either, they are known to Fry but fortunately you can get the replacement Pig Tail for it.
IF you are into the Dash I would sure inspect it while you are there.
I'll also tell ya that connector that plugs on to the head light switch is no fun either, they are known to Fry but fortunately you can get the replacement Pig Tail for it.
IF you are into the Dash I would sure inspect it while you are there.
I know this is off topic but that Black/Orange wire we have been chasing feeds fuse #4 also that goes to the Headlight switch
So ya. Now turning the key to on does nothing. Checked all fuses inside and out of cab. All have full continuity. And some have 12v. Would my ignition cylinder have gotten burnt? Idk what to think.
So ya. Now turning the key to on does nothing. Checked all fuses inside and out of cab. All have full continuity. And some have 12v. Would my ignition cylinder have gotten burnt? Idk what to think.
Are you sure you got C202 seated and screwed back in proper ?
the 10mm bolt needs a thin walled socket to get a good bite on it
just be careful not to cross thread that bolt in the center of the connector
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