Stumped need help.
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Freshman User
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Stumped need help.
Before I lose my sanity. I have a 92 7.3l idi e350. Recently wouldn't start because of a bad battery issue, so I replaced the battery and starter. After replacing the parts she fired right up. However I noticed that my speedometer, odometer, dash light, dome lights, headlights, hazards, and turn signals quit working. Also causing my transmission to operate in limp mode as soon as she is supposed to shift, causing the OVERDRIVE light to flash. I have checked, pulled and ran tests on all the fuses themself. All check out. I have torn apart my dash in Hope's to find the problem with no luck. Please help with any ideas that i can do.... I am not afraid to take apart, rewire, or jump wire anything. Everything was working great before I changed the battery and starter.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2019
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Before I lose my sanity. I have a 92 7.3l idi e350. Recently wouldn't start because of a bad battery issue, so I replaced the battery and starter. After replacing the parts she fired right up. However I noticed that my speedometer, odometer, dash light, dome lights, headlights, hazards, and turn signals quit working. Also causing my transmission to operate in limp mode as soon as she is supposed to shift, causing the OVERDRIVE light to flash. I have checked, pulled and ran tests on all the fuses themself. All check out. I have torn apart my dash in Hope's to find the problem with no luck. Please help with any ideas that i can do.... I am not afraid to take apart, rewire, or jump wire anything. Everything was working great before I changed the battery and starter.
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Just went through an electrical issue similar to what you are facing. The fuse check is a good idea check all of them and replace as needed. Even a fuse that seemingly has nothing to do with your problem should be replaced.
Next get an OBD1 reader for your truck. You can find one for a Ford on Amazon for about $25. Once you have it check the codes.
You likely have codes, address those codes with the work flow in the factory manual ( another $30 to Amazon for a CD copy) or find someone to look it up and send you the workflow associated with the code(s).
Lastly reset your computer via the code reader. If you want to skip the manual purchase and associated workflow you could do the reset after you replace the Fuses. If you do so write down your codes so you can perform the workflow if the reset doesn't fix your problem.
Next get an OBD1 reader for your truck. You can find one for a Ford on Amazon for about $25. Once you have it check the codes.
You likely have codes, address those codes with the work flow in the factory manual ( another $30 to Amazon for a CD copy) or find someone to look it up and send you the workflow associated with the code(s).
Lastly reset your computer via the code reader. If you want to skip the manual purchase and associated workflow you could do the reset after you replace the Fuses. If you do so write down your codes so you can perform the workflow if the reset doesn't fix your problem.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
just check the ones I listed 
he may have left off the feed wire for Fuse 'S' on the starter relay when messing with the batteries 
it would cause his exact issues....
he may have left off the feed wire for Fuse 'S' on the starter relay when messing with the batteries it would cause his exact issues....
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2019
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Just went through an electrical issue similar to what you are facing. The fuse check is a good idea check all of them and replace as needed. Even a fuse that seemingly has nothing to do with your problem should be replaced.
Next get an OBD1 reader for your truck. You can find one for a Ford on Amazon for about $25. Once you have it check the codes.
You likely have codes, address those codes with the work flow in the factory manual ( another $30 to Amazon for a CD copy) or find someone to look it up and send you the workflow associated with the code(s).
Lastly reset your computer via the code reader. If you want to skip the manual purchase and associated workflow you could do the reset after you replace the Fuses. If you do so write down your codes so you can perform the workflow if the reset doesn't fix your problem.
Next get an OBD1 reader for your truck. You can find one for a Ford on Amazon for about $25. Once you have it check the codes.
You likely have codes, address those codes with the work flow in the factory manual ( another $30 to Amazon for a CD copy) or find someone to look it up and send you the workflow associated with the code(s).
Lastly reset your computer via the code reader. If you want to skip the manual purchase and associated workflow you could do the reset after you replace the Fuses. If you do so write down your codes so you can perform the workflow if the reset doesn't fix your problem.
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Everything is intact, clean and has conductivity. Still no solution. This is so bazaar. Not completely understanding why the wires for my speedowhoch has constant power with key in on, would be ran thru the starter relay, which allows direct amp to starter when key is in crank or start position? Does the power being supplied to the starter relay run thru the "listed problems" before the relay? I appreciate the input tho. Keeps me chipping away at possibilities. Could I have broken something in my instrument cluster while I enforced rage while I was broke down from the randomly fried battery.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
Everything is intact, clean and has conductivity. Still no solution. This is so bazaar. Not completely understanding why the wires for my speedowhoch has constant power with key in on, would be ran thru the starter relay, which allows direct amp to starter when key is in crank or start position? Does the power being supplied to the starter relay run thru the "listed problems" before the relay? I appreciate the input tho. Keeps me chipping away at possibilities. Could I have broken something in my instrument cluster while I enforced rage while I was broke down from the randomly fried battery.
a yellow wire from the Always Hot side of the Starter Relay feeds the wiring harness in that harness is a Splice to a BLK/ORG wire that goes to Fuse 'S' in the engine compartment from that Fuse a BLK/ORG wire goes to the inside fuse box and supplies Fuse #8 .... this power distribution is what powers head lights and body lights along with the PSOM (aka speedometer) no speed signal to the Tranny PCM causes it to go into limp mode.
you need to check voltage at the points I mentioned.
PS the Starter Relay is not the starter Solenoid.... the relay is mounted on a fender the passenger side
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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I would be connecting the meter Negative lead to a good Frame Ground and then testing those points with the Positive lead of the meter... it should read 12 V
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Did what requested. 12v going all the way thru fuse s but no power to either side of fuse 8.