Use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the lugnuts using just the sharp flame tip acetylene to do the heating of the lugnuts to a dull red. Use a impact socket with a long breaker bar. Put a 4-6' pipe over the breaker bar handle. Put the breaker bar at just above your slightly bent legs, then use your legs to LIFT the bar.If they don't come lose with that setup, then put a jackbar into other end of the pipe to give still more leverage. Reheat and try lifting again. The lugnuts will either come loose or the truck will flip over onto its back. But something's going to give (It will be the lugnuts). This has never failed me once even on tractors with stubbornly seized lugnuts/bolts.

Hope this helps.

 

Totally agree with farmalmta, heat and a big pipe on a breaker bar! Remember Murphy's Law, Force it, if it breaks you needed a new one anyway!
As for anti-seize, I highly recommend it. I worked on 18 wheelers for year as a career. Used anti seize the whole time. Lug nuts, brake components, spring Ubolts, anything you want to be able to take apart someday. I heard the rumors about it leading to loose wheels and I find that to be bologna. My personal opinion is if a lugnut loosens up, it most likely wasn't tight enough to start with. That said, I don't say to slobber the stuff all over, just put a light coat on the threads and you are good to go. If you put it on the wheel or cone shape part of the nut it will streak all over the wheel after a while if you put much there.
Another thing, you mentioned running your psi at 95. I'd open it up to full pressure for tough bolts. It might be enough to work. My compressor runs to 175psi. I run my gun at that. The gun should run at 90-120 but those are really just guidelines right? Sign on the highway says 65 too, who does that? lol

 

https://www.fleetowner.com/equipment...debunking_myth

 

I agree with the opinion Stu provides, although I use a very small dab of axle grease on one side of each stud. It is the hub-piloted wheel that needs anti-seize. In my scrap-yard days I removed many hub-piloted wheels with the BFH while the vehicle hung on the forklift. Not very good for the wheels, and not too safe for the scrap-yard monkey swinging the hammer.
Eric

 

Just sounds like a lawyers excuse to be able to avoid blaming someone for not tightening wheels correctly. I've used the stuff for literally 20 years in the industry, stud piloted and hub piloted wheels. I can't even guess the millions of miles in all those years during my time doing that work. Not 1 wheel loose ever, not 1. I worked in the northeast, and anyone there knows the rust is a huge factor. Not so much worn nuts, or studs. When they are worn, you replace them, not slather on a lube and force them on. Any decent mechanic knows that.
I will agree that the hub piloted wheels can usually go without as they tend to loosen a lot easier than the old budd wheels. But when a wheel will be on a truck for a year at a time in the north, with the corrosive stuff they use for icemelt, you need something to assist, and anti-seize works. I prefer to use it in small doses, certainly not make a mess with it. I have seen people glob it on and there is never a need for that.
Everyone has their preference. I will stick to mine due to real world experience. There may be some scientific evidence that proves I am wrong, but if we are to believe the people who sell studs and nuts , or the lawyers who need something to blame other than their client, I'm not sure I trust that.