Anyone know what size socket is rquired to pull the outer rear wheels on a 1950 F6?

The truck is In PA and I am in Texas. The fellow in PA doesn't have a socket large enough to remove the outer rear wheels and my father, who will be picking this truck up and hauling it to me in Texas in a couple of weeks, needs to pull the outer rear tires to get it on his trailer. I need to get him a socket size so that he will have it with him.

Thanks,

Carl G.

 

The socket you need is a 1 1/2" impact socket.

There a special socket made for the Budd tire that fits both the hex head of the outer nut and the square head of the inner nut. There's one on uPay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Budd-...spagenameZWDVW

S-K also make this type of socket.

 

The short answer is 1½ inch.

A deep 6 point impact socket is best either ¾ or 1 inch drive. I'd recommend taking a 12 inch extension, a good breaker bar, 4 ft length of pipe, and a jack, jackstand or pile of wood blocks to support the outer end of the extension.

A can of PB Blaster and wire brush to clean the exposed threads might help. It's not unusual for the threads to bind and the inner stud nut will loosen up and want to come off with the outer wheel. A 13/16 square budd wheel socket is needed to fit the inner stud nut. Another good tool to have for this situation is known as a pork chop. It jams in the wheel and holds the outer nut so it loosens when you drive the inner nut back on.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ken30609.html

If you Google "budd wheel tool" a lot of online tool sources will come up. Most truck tire shops sell the 13/16 square socket.

Driver's side has left hand threads.

 

I went to NAPA and simply bought a big lug wrench for big trucks. I don't remember what it cost but it wasn't a lot.

I then went to a truck supply place and replaced all the lug nuts and bolts. Most of the ones on the back were so rusted that they were unsafe to use. I was unable to get some of the back ones on the duals separated.

Since the (widow-maker) 2 piece split-rim wheels were no good it didn't matter. (Even the good ones are unusable anyway)

yesyesyes!! DON'T FORGET THE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE LEFT SIDE!!


Regards,

Rick

 

This is what came with the F5 and F6 trucks that I parted out a while a go.

Take a look at the last three tools on the right side. The bottom end went onto the lug nut and the top end had a hole going through the tool to insert a metal breaker bar. I've used the longer one to remove one outside wheel (after soaking the lug nuts for some time) and the shorter one to unbolt the steering box. Both tools have the same socket size. The lug nuts and the steering box nut are also the same size.

 

And remember the tightening torque for the F4 - F6 lug nuts is 400 ft-lbs.

Fran

 

Guys,

Thanks to each one of you for your very helpful replies. I'm hoping I don't have a stuck nut problem. The tires are pretty new so they must have been off sometime in the past 4-5 years. Truck has been kept inside and looks pretty fresh. Here is a picture of what I am dealing with. It comes down here in about two weeks. For Memorial Day, my wife will be accompanying me to New Harmony, Indiana to pick up a running 48 F6 (8R Engine) so I will soon have two of these beasts. The 48 is not nearly as nice as the 50 in the photo. For the 48, your comments will be most helpful.

 

Got up there to get the 48 on sunday morning and the seller had access to a
3/4" impact gun. The rear wheel nuts came right off. Only one came off with the inner nut attached. And there was a bonus. They aren't split rims. All are solid 1-piecers. Score.

 

Are sure the wheels are one piece? What size tire are they? If they're 20" they have to be multi-part rims. The "Widow Maker" rims are deceptive, they look like one piece rims because they don't have the outer snap rings everyone equates with mult-part rims. The only one piece rims I know of are either the 19 1/2" or 22 1/2". Look on the concave side of the rim to see if there is a 1 1/2" band running the circumference of the wheel.

 

how do you do it? Honestly!!! good looking rig carl, real good lookking truck.

 

Matt,

The one in the picture isn't here yet. My onld man will be here with it in a week or so. It has the big 6 "M" series. I did drag the 48 F6 home this weekend from Indiana. The guy didn't lie to me. It runs like a clock. Needs some work to put her back on the road but certainly too nice to part out. It was in much better condition that I thought it would be.

Bob,

I will try o get a picture of the outer rims on the rear that were removed to get it on the truck. Theya re in the bed of the truck right now and a bit of a pain to get at for a photo right now. I took a look at the rims that are still on the truck - insided and outside. I did not see a steel band of any sort. They appear to be soilid to me but that doesn't mean I might no be missing something. Again, I will take some photos, hopefully tomorrow and you guys can tell me what I ahve. They have 20" tires on them.

 

If they're 20 inch tires...I'm willing to bet you have splits.

I put a new set of TOYO 20" tube type radials in front on mine and a set of new (recapped) 20" radials on the back. The tire place got me 6 3 piece lock-ring wheels (rebuilt) for about $225 each. That included sandblasting and powder coating with a color of my choice.




Cheers,


Rick