So I have been fighting with my AC for awhile now, (older thread on the original issue). Pressure is good...would work then it wouldn’t. No leaks. So I dug in again tonight and just removed the only shim to adjust the air gap. Still nothing. But in trying to figure out what is the prob, I checked connections and when I moved the wires on one connector, it worked. I let go and it stopped. So I gorilla taped the wires in a position to kept it working until I get a replacement pigtail....but need to identify the right one.
It is the round connector that plugs into what I assume is the high pressure line leading to the compressor. Right next to the oil dipstick.
Anyone got part numbers or where to order one from? Not sure how long the rigged fix will hold. Gonna keep searching in case I happen to find it.

Thanks all!

 

I believe the one on the drier towards the blower motor is the low pressure switch. I had to buy a new switch, Ford changed the connections so I needed to buy the pigtail from them too. Hopefully that helps...

 

Unfortunately I am not terminology savvy when it comes to the AC unit... I know the main components but not the sensors and switches etc. So here is the connector that is taped up....
(Not my truck. Just a pic I located. But it works.)



And I also just ordered a new Clutch hub as mine is worn way down. Will prolly have to shim it out again.

 

I’m fairly sure that is the high pressure switch. I’d check with Ford to see if they change that connector also. I did not realize they changed the connectors until I got home and had to drive back into town to buy a new pigtail .

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wv...onnector,15627

Ford used the same switch and connector on most models for at least 10 years after they converted to R134a. A trip to a salvage yard would be cheapest.

Some versions were 2 pin, some were 4 pin. The Airtex part above can be used for either, just use the correct two if that's what you have. Look and see what you have under your hood. The schematic says 2-pin.

 

That looks to be exactly what is on mine. 2 wire n all. Thank you! Now to see which shows up first...the clutch hub or the pigtail.

 

OK New connector, little solder and heat shrink tubing and the loose wire issue is fixed.
But...new clutch hub.... Failure.
I put it in with the single shim and it works as it should with ignition on, engine off. Locks in place when in defrost or A/C. Spins with heat switch off.
Engine running, heat switch off...No problem. Turn A/C or Defrost on, and it squeaks as it rotates...but it doesn't rotate correctly. As I watched it for about 20 seconds before shutting it down, I could see it trying to spin but it wasn't locking in completely. You could see it turn a little then slip, turn more then slip etc. As it moved it would squeal. Would spin in short bursts like it was trying to grab but couldn't hold. I shut it down and tried a different thickness shim...maybe 25% thicker, (picked up some tiny washers the same outer diameter). Won't engage at all.
Checked the bolt tightness and it was good. Took out the new clutch hub and caliper checked thickness, diameters, bolt hole etc compared to the original and it matched up other than the plate surface was just a hair thicker as expected.

So was I supposed to prep the surface prior to install? Roughen it up a little maybe? Leave it on there longer to allow it to set the surface itself? The original still works fine but looks like a brake rotor that ran the pads down to the backing plate. That's why I got a new one.

Speak to me oh A/C gurus!! Share thy wisdom!!

Thoughts?

Thanks all!

 

Di you measure the clutch gap with feeler gauges?

 

Yep.... .032 slides in with little resistance. .033 is snug.... on the new clutch hub. I didn’t measure the old.

 

When you say you replaced the clutch, does that include the solenoid? Or did you replace the pulley and and the spring plate only? Or only the spring plate?

 

There's no solenoid in the system. A "complete" clutch kit would be the hub, pulley and coil.

Prescribed gap is .014" - .030". I usually wouldn't expect to see engagement issues until the gap approached .050". However, since you indicated the original surface on the pulley is well-grooved, the effective gap is probably going to be larger than the gap you measured since the feeler gauge would only register from the "high" spots.

You could play with the gap size using different thickness shims (a hardware kit is two bucks at AutoZone) but you might be better off with a new pulley first and then set the gap using the correct shim(s).

Or, if you're up to it, a replacement compressor with all that stuff already on it.

 

My bad. I said solenoid when I meant coil.

 

Mine did the same thing when I installed new. The grooves in the old surface and flat slick new surface don't match up. It took a few days of spinning and grinding in some wear on the new clutch plate till it stopped spinning.

 

Ok. Hopefully to answer all questions....
Only replaced the clutch hub.

I did at one point try the new clutch hub without any shims and same issue.

i do get what was said about the old surface to the new slick surface don’t grab as it should but I’m not sure if I am willing to let it grind for a few few days.
It gets pretty hot this time of year and I would really hate to have to pay for a new compressor from something I did. So that answers that replacement question.
As for the hub pulley and coil.... can I replace the pulley and coil without having to evacuate the system? I don’t have the equipment for that process.
I could see where replacing it all would help.
Thanks all!

 

The pulley, yes, if you have room. I did in my old 97 5.4 and on my 01 V10. I don't know how much room is available on the 7.3L.

The coil, probably not (easily, at least). The service manual says to put it on the workbench and use a puller to remove the coil. Takes quite a bit of space to do that. Maybe the compressor can be dismounted and rotated enough to get a puller on it, but one of the diesel guys would have to answer that.