Need help
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Georgia
Need help
Just bought a battery for my truck a week ago. I store it in a garage so it’s been a week since my last start. I took the cables off the battery last week to conserve life. I go to start my truck today and all I’m getting is a clicking noise from the solenoid. The lights work but it’s almost as if the battery is dead. The truck won’t turnover. What could be my issue?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
Bad ground, as a first guess. I
f you have a volt-ohm meter, (VOM), check what voltage your battery has. It should be 13.6, fully charged.
If the battery is good, check the resistance of the ground, by putting one probe on the negative terminal, and one on some bare metal, next to the battery tray. If you get any resistance at all, start checking the connections for your ground cable, and the resistance of the ground cable itself.
If you don’t have a VOM, buy a good one and start using it.
f you have a volt-ohm meter, (VOM), check what voltage your battery has. It should be 13.6, fully charged.
If the battery is good, check the resistance of the ground, by putting one probe on the negative terminal, and one on some bare metal, next to the battery tray. If you get any resistance at all, start checking the connections for your ground cable, and the resistance of the ground cable itself.
If you don’t have a VOM, buy a good one and start using it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
13.6 is what you'll find maybe in a battery that has just been driven on. It has a "surface charge" on it.
A fully charged maintenance free battery is 12.80 volts at 70° F
A new battery should probably be charged with an external charger before installation. If it sat on the shelf for a while it could be down quite a bit. The last new battery I bought took 6 hours to come up to 100%.
As a quick test turn the headlights on. Are they clear and bright? What do the headlights do when you try to start, do they stay bright or choke off to nothing?
A fully charged maintenance free battery is 12.80 volts at 70° F
A new battery should probably be charged with an external charger before installation. If it sat on the shelf for a while it could be down quite a bit. The last new battery I bought took 6 hours to come up to 100%.
As a quick test turn the headlights on. Are they clear and bright? What do the headlights do when you try to start, do they stay bright or choke off to nothing?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Georgia
13.6 is what you'll find maybe in a battery that has just been driven on. It has a "surface charge" on it.
A fully charged maintenance free battery is 12.80 volts at 70° F
A new battery should probably be charged with an external charger before installation. If it sat on the shelf for a while it could be down quite a bit. The last new battery I bought took 6 hours to come up to 100%.
As a quick test turn the headlights on. Are they clear and bright? What do the headlights do when you try to start, do they stay bright or choke off to nothing?
A fully charged maintenance free battery is 12.80 volts at 70° F
A new battery should probably be charged with an external charger before installation. If it sat on the shelf for a while it could be down quite a bit. The last new battery I bought took 6 hours to come up to 100%.
As a quick test turn the headlights on. Are they clear and bright? What do the headlights do when you try to start, do they stay bright or choke off to nothing?
Ok ok I’ll try both of these to see what happens
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yeah a voltmeter is your friend, it can be tough to determine the fault without one, loose or corroded connections will seem or sound exactly like a dead battery. Sometimes a battery will measure 12.x volts across the terminals with no load on it, though choke under the actual load of starting, they might run the dash lights or radio but they don't have the juice to run the starter.
In your case it's more likely loose or corroded connections. Headlights and stoplights draw maybe 8 or 10 amps, but the starter wants 150, make sure all the cables and connections are clean, and tightened securely.
In your case it's more likely loose or corroded connections. Headlights and stoplights draw maybe 8 or 10 amps, but the starter wants 150, make sure all the cables and connections are clean, and tightened securely.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Georgia
Yeah a voltmeter is your friend, it can be tough to determine the fault without one, loose or corroded connections will seem or sound exactly like a dead battery. Sometimes a battery will measure 12.x volts across the terminals with no load on it, though choke under the actual load of starting, they might run the dash lights or radio but they don't have the juice to run the starter.
In your case it's more likely loose or corroded connections. Headlights and stoplights draw maybe 8 or 10 amps, but the starter wants 150, make sure all the cables and connections are clean, and tightened securely.
In your case it's more likely loose or corroded connections. Headlights and stoplights draw maybe 8 or 10 amps, but the starter wants 150, make sure all the cables and connections are clean, and tightened securely.
All connections are tight and there is no corrosion. I need the volt meter. I have a warranty on the battery it’s brand new I’m taking it back.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
My first test with issues like this is turn the headlights on and try to start the truck. If the lights stay bright, then it's a starter issue. If the lights go dim, it's a battery issue. At least most times. There could be more to it, but as a quick test.
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