Has anyone removed a whole roof section and cut down lower part of the pillars and replaced it with another. My upper part of my cab is twisted as so can see in the picture with the door. Just seeing how big of a project this would be? And I dont wanna swap the cab this is my good rust free cab I got. I have measured the windshield and it's not square. Seeing if I can get any ideas

 

Ian Roussel "Full Custom Garage" Me, I have no idea.

 

I will also note if you look in the drip rails you can see that the roof skin has been replaced do to some sort of damage. You can see all the rivets. It is a oe Ford replacement roof skin still in primer. So I know something happened some time ago since I'm sure Ford has not made a replacement roof skin for some time.

 

 

Do you have a donor cab? Your going to need one.

 

If you are in it for the glory you can fix that. My guess is some idiot replaced that roof skin without removing the cab from the truck. The good thing is whoever put that roof on didn't have a welder or didn't know anything about what they were doing. If the cab floor and mounts are good and square you need to fab something for the cab to set on that is perfectly level, think "I" beam. Drill out all those pop rivets and remove the roof. Don't do any more damage to the drip rails, there are no replacements. You might get away with leaving it attached to the back of the cab. Push, pull, beat whatever it takes to get everything back plumb, level and square then then brace it 40 ways from Sunday an reattach the roof using those pop rivet holes to spot thru.
Or cut your loses and get another cab. Somebody would buy that roof skin for pretty good money if you can get it off without a lot of damage.

 

I agree with Cropduster. I would try to fix what you have. Worst case is it doesn't work out and then you replace it.

 

Yeah I was thinking about removing the roof and getting everything close to square. This has been a frame off restoration and I want it to be a good clean driver nothing like a show truck. Here is another pic of the inside of the roof where it shows the oe Ford stamped roof skin replacement.

 

When I was a young buck I had a 79 f150 with a 460. One day I was racing down a parkway going 100mph+ and the roof ripped clear off! It had a visor on the front and I assume that started the peeling. Anyway enter roof replacement

It was a pretty easy job but a little time consuming. I cut all 4 pillars somewhere in the middle, not so far down as you have them marked. After taking numerous measurements I simply cut off the old and placed the new one on top. Then I made sure everything sat nice a square and after tacking, mocked the windshield in for fitment. I welded all 4 pillars very carefully and grinded the outside down and re welded until it was perfect. The rest was easy.

edit: all my cut lines were clearly marked with blue tape before I sliced with the grinder

 

I think I may start with taking the roof skin off and seeing if I can straighten out everything first and if that dont pan out I can always sell the roof skin since it's in great shape and plan b would be to cut the roof off another cab I got and put it on my new cab.

 

I replaced a badly bent pillar on a 55 back in the 80s and had a whole metal shop at my disposal, the shoulder of the cab was bent in just slightly and even though I used hydraulics and measured as well as I could it was never right. Interestingly my truck now also had the roof replaced (they welded it and not terribly but I'd love to know why) and the driver's side pillar is bent and twisted a couple inches in the middle from an impact injury of sorts. Not anywhere near as bad as my 55 was and I could probably cob it but the nuance of those curves in the tube that is the pillar can get bent in strange ways. I am sure I can replace it properly so I bought one from Flashback F-100s. I think your idea of a whole top and complete pillars is not a bad one, trying to straighten a big twist can be next to impossible. You can fit the windshield before you do any final welding. I just think the one seam in the back and the two pillar bottoms is an easier job in the long run. That's my 2¢, good luck!

 

You might be able to square it up using a 4 ton Porto power and pushing the openings around. That’s what I would do. I’ve used it to square up the rear end on hatchbacks to get gates and end panels to fit.