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I thought you only need the standard license and it comes with it automatically.
You have to create an account with Forscan in order to receive the free 2-month license code. Apparently someone at Forscan has to approve your account before you can log in
Originally Posted by M3rc
Just to avoid throwing money away and since you already have the idm unplugged. Check the ohms again at the 42 pin connector, if they're significantly different from the 42 pin connector to the valve covers then you can narrow down where its happening. Then check them at the uvch again before you go diving into valve covers....not that it's hard, I just hope you don't get good at it.
If still bad at uvch, then pull valve covers, inspect uvch and check the injectors themselves by unplugging the uvch. This could be as simple as 50 cent mod, or replacing uvchs.
I'd bet on just bad connections, but if you decide to replace solenoids, while you've got the solenoids off, check the clearance of the armature plates on the injectors to see how much clearance there is under the armature(should be around .004)
Okay yeah I'll have to start checking resistances and see what it's looking like. As far as the solenoids, I'd more than likely bite the bullet and get slightly larger injectors if it turns out one or more are bad. I just didn't know if that high of a resistance was an indicator of a bad solenoid or if that could be the result of bad connections as well.
So I decided to go ahead and start pulling stuff off to get to the valve covers and noticed some bare wires on my driver's side connector. Passenger side wasn't as bad, but both connectors had some wiggle to them. I'm going to pull the entire wire harness out and check to see if there are any other damaged wires. So here's my big question regarding this harness: Is this repairable??? I'm assuming if i was going to repair this by replacing the connector, my wire connections are going to have to be PERFECT in order to have the correct resistance across the circuit. Looked online and the main engine harness is like $500!!! Driver Side Driver Side Passenger Side Passenger Side
QUESTION:
Looking at my IPW, should my pulse width be something greater than 0 while starting?
Originally Posted by Nicmike
Your IPW should not be 0. It should read around 3ms while starting.
I agree with Nicmike. Your IPW should be climbing as the truck is cranking but...
While cranking, the IPW needs to be at least 0.6ms. This indicates that the PCM has established connection with the IDM. If not, the IDM will not fire the injectors because the PCM can't tell it to.
Just to add it here for any future internet searches here are the minimum parameters that need to be achieved for the engine to start (all of this is while cranking):
I have all but the correct pulse width value. Resistance values across all IDM circuits are high. Found frayed wires around the drivers UVCH connector at the valve cover. Going to pull the main engine harness and attempt to replace the connectors with new ones from Alliant. Also debating on ordering new UVCH/gasket for both sides while I've got everything out
Without that 0.6ms your PCM isn't connecting to your IDM so your injectors won't fire. I have not had that issue so unfortunately cannot shed any more light on it than that. @cleatus12r and @Tugly are the two that come to mind that might be able to help you with that path.
Buy some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease, then clean out your IDM connector and re-grease it - the IDM gets hammered with water from the road, and you want that grease to protect it the connector. While you're at it, cleaning and dielectric grease is good in all the connectors on a diesel (focusing first on the sensors you have touched).
I would take some Simple Green and spray that engine down real good, let it soak, then gently rinse it with an open hose (not a pressure washer), being careful with what you rinse. A leaf blower or a shop vac in blow mode can dry things out.
After things are clean, look around for wire insulation rubbed off where wires touch metal - particularly under the wire bundle to the 42-pin connector on the driver-side valve cover.
Using the non-mobile site, I would click the links in my signature - one link in particular makes testing the UVCH much easier.
Pull the chip out completely before your next attempt at cranking. If this resolves the starting problem, this does not mean you have a chip problem - it likely means you have a chip connection problem. I have this tee-shirt in my drawer, right alongside that bad VCCP tee-shirt.
Buy some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease, then clean out your IDM connector and re-grease it - the IDM gets hammered with water from the road, and you want that grease to protect it the connector. While you're at it, cleaning and dielectric grease is good in all the connectors on a diesel (focusing first on the sensors you have touched).
I would take some Simple Green and spray that engine down real good, let it soak, then gently rinse it with an open hose (not a pressure washer), being careful with what you rinse. A leaf blower or a shop vac in blow mode can dry things out.
After things are clean, look around for wire insulation rubbed off where wires touch metal - particularly under the wire bundle to the 42-pin connector on the driver-side valve cover.
Using the non-mobile site, I would click the links in my signature - one link in particular makes testing the UVCH much easier.
Pull the chip out completely before your next attempt at cranking. If this resolves the starting problem, this does not mean you have a chip problem - it likely means you have a chip connection problem. I have this tee-shirt in my drawer, right alongside that bad VCCP tee-shirt.
Awesome write up on the wire repair, I planned on ordering the replacement connectors from RiffRaff and soldering them in but I may end up going this route depending on damage I find. Thanks for sharing that!
I was able to get the main engine harness removed, but as soon as I did, my 9-month old woke up and I haven't had a chance to inspect it yet. Gonna be out of town until tomorrow night so it'll be Monday before I get back to work on the truck. I planned on cleaning the harness up and cleaning the connectors with contact cleaner like you said. Also gonna replace all of the plastic protective sleeve and get rid of all the old electrical tape. I'll have to drink a beer or two to calm my nerves before cleaning the engine up!
I can't help but feel like I should go ahead and replace the UVCHs on both sides while I'll have everything pulled out and cleaned so I'll more than likely go ahead and do that. I feel like I read that the gaskets generally hold up well and don't need to be replaced but I'll go back and research that more. Do you think I should i go ahead and order the gaskets with the UVCHs or am i likely to find that they're okay? I'm definitely getting international parts btw, read to many bad things about the Dorman and like brands
I'll make sure to check out the links when I get to my laptop.
Well I'm still waiting on the connectors and such that I ordered from Riffraff last Saturday.....wasn't too impressed that I had to spend $15 on shipping for my $300+ order and am still waiting, but what can you do...
I got a chance this weekend to strip all of the nasty electrical tape and wire looms from the harness, cleaned that up best I could, and also cleaned the engine best I could. I sprayed in down with the simple green, let it soak and rinsed with the garden hose (spicket barely cracked open). Took the leak blower to it from a good distance away at first, but couldn't shake the thought of possibly forcing water into placed I don't want it - just like a pressure washer would. So I decided to just take the shopvac and PULL all the water away instead. I felt better doing this as it helped me get all of the water out of the valley, as well as the electrical components/connectors....but I still hate washing an engine lol lets just hope I didn't create another problem
After going through my wires, I have a question regarding some findings. On the IDM circuit, I found that the 4 injector wires and the common center wire that run to each UVCH connector and the main engine harness connector, were separately wrapped what looked to be a insulated tape, and then electrical tape. Underneath all of that was a bare wire that wrapped around the length of the 5 wires, and is coming from the main engine harness connector (pin 15). This separate "bundle" also had a tag on it with the date and time the harness was made and tested...……..Now, I've never seen the inside of these wire harnesses, so I have nothing to go off of. It all seems to be original; nothing seems to be rigged together any worse than from factory lol. I haven't been able to find a good pinout diagram for this connector, but I'm assuming this is a ground wire that's been wrapped around these injector signal wires in order to block any sort of unwanted frequencies/noise....can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, does the bare wire need to be connected back to itself? Pictures below
Anyone have a spec or P/N on this insulation/tape?? Need to get some to re-wrap
Definitely needed replacing Yup IPR connector -> replacing as well
The wire from pin 15 of the main engine harness spilts into 2 bare wires. One is long and wrapped aroud the enitre length of the 5 injector wires; one is short. Do these wires need to be connected??
Well I'm assuming my IDM was fried due to all of the wiring issues I had. I replaced both of the uvch, as well as the connectors on the engine harness and all the resistances are roughly 3 ohms now, grounds are good.... still no start. All my readings are good except my IPW is still staying at zero
Can the dealership test an IDM if I bring it up there?
I don't know about a dealer but there is an outfit in Chattanooga (I think it is) who can do it, forget their name but someone here knows. Did you consider just changing out that whole harness?
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