Is the Holley quick change kit use different springs than what came in the carb?
IIRC the Ho0lley spring kit list what springs should work for the weight of the car / truck no? I would start with the one the carb came with.

On the dist. it would be nice to have a dist. machine so you can set it up on the "bench". Last time I seen one was back in high school in auto shop, never got to play with it.
Do you know what the advance is on it for the weights & vacuum now? If so that may help before you drop it in.

Other wise you are going to have to play with both carb & dist to dial them in, oh the fun .....
Dave ----

 

I dont think the springs are different I havent messed with the carb yet.

The paperwork with the spring kit Holley kit 20-13 lists the spring by rpm for a 350 engine.

White : lightest
Yellow short : lighter, 1620 rpm initial, 5680 rpm full
Yellow : light, 1635 rpm initial, 5750 rpm full
Purple : med light, 1915 rpm initial, 6950 rpm full
Plain : medium, 2240 rpm initial, 8160 rpm full
Brown : med heavy, 2710 rpm initial, 8750 rpm full
Black : heavy, 2720 rpm initial, not fully open

It does state if using a heavy vehicle or restrictive air filter housing like OEM to go with a heavier spring or if you have a lighter vehicle or open element filter go with a lighter spring.

As far as the timing on the dist I dont know. Havent touched it yet. It's an out of the box new cardone dist for DSII with a steel gear for roller cams.

I have a kit for it with springs and a new vacuum can that is adjustable. This kit does list some information such as crane recommends using the shortest of the two governor slots for economy/street performance. Then they list the spring combinations

Yellow - stock light spring : 800rpm begin advance 3800rpm full advance
Silver - stock light spring : 800rpm begin advance 3500rpm full advance
Yellow - yellow : 800rpm begin advance 2600rpm full advance.

I was thinking silver and stock spring as I'm not sure if its smart to have full advance when I'm going down the highway between 2400 and 3000 rpm.

 

On the carb I don't think I would go by the RPM they list as I think that is going to throw you off.
I would go with the colors of white for a light car / truck and black for a heavy one.
I think I would start with a purple and adjust from there up or down as needed.

On the dist. don't they say "all in by 2500 RPM"?
With that I would go with the yellow / yellow as a starting point.
I think the biggest thing you will need to do is limit the spring advance and maybe the vacuum to get the total to no more than like 38*

Again this will take a lot of playing with both to get them dialed in.
If it was not such a pain to adjust the dist. I would drop it in like it is and see what the "factory" has it set for.
That brings up something, what does the factory book list the dist. advance @ RPM as?
I know your motor is not stock but you have to start some place and knowing what the factory advance should be would help.

I will not get in to how to test all this if what you just changed helped or hurt both timing & carb.
Dave ----

 

They do say all in by 2500 rpm is the rule of thumb.

On the stock spec this is the closest i can get to spec.


Probably why they say to set the governor on the short slot that is the 20* mechanical slot while the other provides 30*.

So the 10L short slot for 20* max mechanical timing means with 12* initial full advance minus vacuum would be 32*. One could adjust the vacuum advance to limit it to adding just 6* advance which would limit the total advance to 38* total. Think I remember being told sbf engines dont like more than 38* total timing.

 

There you go as a starting point as you have to start some where.
If you have access to Motor books they may have it broken down with vacuum advance to see if it is different than what you posted.
Dave ----

 

How is this for motivation!*
Sat: I installed a new head light switch, put 5 gal of gas in the front tank and checked that the gauge moved and it did.
*Sun: I was in the garage at 430am and worked till 230pm wet sanding the cab of the truck prepping for paint.
I need to do a cleaning of the garage before I lay down primer as I had to go down to metal in some places.
Once in primer just need to scuff and paint, well a little more than that but .....
Dave ----

 

I will have to check. I got a book with ford engine specs in it and I got a shop manual for my truck but the shop manual I think is Haynes but I can check it for specs.

Really it looks like I should go with the 20* mechanical advance setting then decide where I want it all in which I think 2500 is where everyone states to have all in advance.

 

Well I need to do some reading. Engine builder I know said I should shoot for 34 to 36 degrees total advance that fords typically dont like a lot of total advance.

Also said to shoot for as much initial advance as possible. I can do 12 degrees initial but would have to limit vacuum advance to 6 degrees or less to keep it under 38 degrees.

 

Sorry I've been gone for a while. But I'm back. I've been awaiting a phone call for surgery on my shoulder, so I was taking it easy. I was also getting sick of welding and grinding. So now the big push is on because winter is coming. Once I get surgery I won't be able to do anything for months. So I want this Ford on the road very soon, like this coming weekend. The firewall is finished and I am happy with it. I finished all the welding, brushed some good primer on with plenty of zinc dust, then used some body fill to smooth things out, then primered it with Rustoleum rust reformer. I didn't go too crazy with the body fill so there are a few areas I could have spent mor time with, but it's sealed up well, looks fairly smooth, and is one color. I got the air ducts and blower assembly installed, and everything else is back on the firewall. Fenders, radiator, fender wells, radiator hoses, brand new fan blade and clutch for it. I guess I should just list what's left.

I need to prime the power steering system, bleed the brakes, install the dash, and the rest is all wiring.

I'm still doing some head scratching as far as the wiring. Most of it was already modified before I took it apart so I just drew up a diagram to match what I have. I have a spare harness from the wrecking yard, and I'm replacing the OEM fuse box with some nicer after market ones, I have some universal no load flashers for it. I'm putting the fuse panels where the factory speaker used to go. The only thing I need to figure out is the Blower motor resistor. I have the dash switches from a 1988 with Luxury air, and the Heater and A/C unit is from a 1992. The 1992 and 1988 had almost identical looking Heating and Air units, except for the color codings. Naturally the Haynes or Chilton manuals don't make one mention of any color codings for the Heating and Air system. Only the engine and lights. The orange and black are obvious, those go right to the blower motor, the resistor is the dilemma. Any advice appreciated. The vacuum hoses have a different bulk connector at the switches, but the colors are so close I can figure it out. Anyway, lot's of prargress. How have you all been?

 

HAHA!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18898880

 

I found a pic of my truck when I first got it. It was on the Cloud. I thought I had lost this pic. It motivates me to see how far it has come, especially in the engine bay.