1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

How about a motivation thread?

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  #31  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:48 PM
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I have that same thrush glasspack.

Wont have it when I do my 306 install, I got a Magnaflow 3 chamber round muffler in the OEM dimensions to get a OEM stock look to the exhaust.

Going to try and use the '86 - '96 off road Y-pipe from jegs. Part number for the Y pipe was the same 80 - 86 so it shouldn't have changed. If it doesn't fit I got a crinkled replacement Y pipe that I can use for now till I can get a exhaust shop to use it as a pattern to build a mandrel bent Y pipe like the oem one.
 
  #32  
Old 07-11-2019, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
I have that same thrush glasspack.

Wont have it when I do my 306 install, I got a Magnaflow 3 chamber round muffler in the OEM dimensions to get a OEM stock look to the exhaust.

Going to try and use the '86 - '96 off road Y-pipe from jegs. Part number for the Y pipe was the same 80 - 86 so it shouldn't have changed. If it doesn't fit I got a crinkled replacement Y pipe that I can use for now till I can get a exhaust shop to use it as a pattern to build a mandrel bent Y pipe like the oem one.
I'm not too impressed with these stock down pipes for the EFI manifolds, but it's better than the log.
 
  #33  
Old 07-11-2019, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by yarddogg77
I'm not too impressed with these stock down pipes for the EFI manifolds, but it's better than the log.
Yep, for me mine is a daily driver I figured a street 306 with 9.5:1 compression with a power band of 1500 to 5500 rpm with hedman shorty street headers the stock 2 1/4" y pipe to a three chamber 2 1/4" mqgnaflow muffler with OEM 2" tail pipe should be well over enough for this engine. Same exhaust was used on 351w so it should be fine for a 306.

One chance I will make is I want to find someone to bend me a tail pipe out of stainless steel that has a end to fit a 2 1/4" muffler. Factory muffler had a 2" outlet so I have to cut my tail pipe back and use adapters for now.
 
  #34  
Old 07-11-2019, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Dog, at least you got to drive yours only time I drove mine was a bad short test drive when I bought it.
Just look over my pictures if you need a kick to get going, pictures here 1980 Ford F100
Trailered it and a parts truck, different sellers, home on the same day. Once I knew the motor ran good, had a miss that a plug change fixed, I pulled it completely apart as in cab off frame apart.
This was back in Dec 2015 and I am still working on it https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lare-side.html

You hate exh work I hate body work and my truck needed A LOT of body work! There have been too many days I could have worked on it over the years but just could not drag myself out to the garage.
I just had 5 days off and only got out for 2 but it has also been mid to upper 90*'s here and it gets hotter in the garage, was 100* one day when I called it quits at about 2pm.

For me the next kick in my butt will be getting paint on it. Hope to pick paint up during the week so maybe next weekend I can paint the bed. With that done then paint on the cab should come shortly there after and it will look like a truck again.
Picture from 2015

Picture from yesterday before I put in back in the garage till next time I work on it.

WOW does not look like I have done anything to it
I can tell you everything but the motor, trany & rear axle is rebuilt under it.

I would say get it on the road and enjoy it a bit before you go doing anything to it again that should give a little kick.
Oh have you tried to make a list of what needs to be done to get on the road?
A white board list is nice as you can see what needs to be done so you don't over look something but as you finish something cross it off the list and you see that as the list gets smaller.
I am going to start my white board after I have the truck painted.
Dave ----

I'd hurry up and finish my truck if you'd give me those sweet rims. Been eyeing a set out near washington or oregon for 650 pre shipping.

Seems to me I'll do most anything to avoid working on my truck. At the same time I'm just itching to drive it again. It was mostly fine back in november. Then I tore her to pieces and ended up finding a lot of issues and have been slow to put it back together. I have come close to throwing in the towel and just putting her back together. But so far I've held strong and refused to work on it all together lol.

How many of you name your trucks?
 
  #35  
Old 07-12-2019, 12:56 AM
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I'm not sentimental, I'll scrap it if it makes sense.
 
  #36  
Old 07-12-2019, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by yarddogg77
I'm not too impressed with these stock down pipes for the EFI manifolds, but it's better than the log.
I take it you are talking of the 1" hole wherethey weld a 2" pipe in place, mine was pretty good and did not need to "fix it".
Dave ----
 
  #37  
Old 07-12-2019, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I take it you are talking of the 1" hole wherethey weld a 2" pipe in place, mine was pretty good and did not need to "fix it".
Dave ----
No, I'm just talking about the bends in the pipe. They aren't mandrel bent and are squeezed on the inside of the bends. Just the down pipes coming off the manifolds. I'm sure the over all diameter remains close enough, but the gases have to squeeze through from round to oval then round then oval again causing turbulence.
 
  #38  
Old 07-12-2019, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by yarddogg77


I'd be tempted to redo that fuel line and filter. For durability, I much prefer metal lines over rubber. And the fuel filter is located straight above the exhaust. Any junction is a potential leak point, and you've created two right over a hot spot. What could possibly go wrong?

Think about it and mullet over...
 
  #39  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:00 AM
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Bad hair day?Just joking. I agree with what you are saying. I would have put the fuel filter on the other side but I didn't want crud running back down into the pump every time I shut it off. Maybe I could bend a hard line 90 degrees right off the pump and mount the filter on it's side. Right now my fire wall needs 'grooming'. I need to solve some rust. I already feel I'm walking on a 'hair line' financially dues to a work injury a month ago, my shoulder is messed up so I'm on light duty. Can't really lift above shoulder height, that's another story.
 
  #40  
Old 07-12-2019, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by yarddogg77
I really like the loks of that, nice and simple, how well does it work? Can you feel the warm air coming off of it in the winter? I have about a foot of 3" pipe laying there I could use in the same way, I wasn't sure if it would do much good though just wrapping one short section.
Havent used it yet. Still gathering parts for my 306 build. Reviews I saw show promising functionality. Easier for me as I was thinking of welding a stud and breaking some sheet metal into a heat shield to connect to.
 
  #41  
Old 07-12-2019, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd
I'd hurry up and finish my truck if you'd give me those sweet rims. Been eyeing a set out near washington or oregon for 650 pre shipping.

Seems to me I'll do most anything to avoid working on my truck. At the same time I'm just itching to drive it again. It was mostly fine back in november. Then I tore her to pieces and ended up finding a lot of issues and have been slow to put it back together. I have come close to throwing in the towel and just putting her back together. But so far I've held strong and refused to work on it all together lol.

How many of you name your trucks?
Them wheels is why I had to rebuild the front suspension. They are 5.5 bolt pattern the parts truck was 4.5 and the wheels I got with it did not fit just kind of bolted on so I could roll it. So after all the work I went thru you cant have them LOL. I have been playing out in my head just how I want to finish them. I am thinking of polishing the outer ring and the spokes keeping the rest black.

Originally Posted by yarddogg77
No, I'm just talking about the bends in the pipe. They aren't mandrel bent and are squeezed on the inside of the bends. Just the down pipes coming off the manifolds. I'm sure the over all diameter remains close enough, but the gases have to squeeze through from round to oval then round then oval again causing turbulence.
Oh ok got it I don't remember mine being like that then again it's not a race truck.

Originally Posted by kr98664
I'd be tempted to redo that fuel line and filter. For durability, I much prefer metal lines over rubber. And the fuel filter is located straight above the exhaust. Any junction is a potential leak point, and you've created two right over a hot spot. What could possibly go wrong?

Think about it and mullet over...
YEP I WOULD!

Originally Posted by yarddogg77
Bad hair day?Just joking. I agree with what you are saying. I would have put the fuel filter on the other side but I didn't want crud running back down into the pump every time I shut it off. Maybe I could bend a hard line 90 degrees right off the pump and mount the filter on it's side. Right now my fire wall needs 'grooming'. I need to solve some rust. I already feel I'm walking on a 'hair line' financially dues to a work injury a month ago, my shoulder is messed up so I'm on light duty. Can't really lift above shoulder height, that's another story.
Ok looking over your picture think this is how I would fix this.
It looks like you can use the stock screw in filter and IIRC it takes a flare from a metal line like stock.
I am sure the pump also uses a flare from the metal line, see where I am going with this?
Stock screw in filter and a long metal flared line from pump to carb. If done right it can look line a factory set up.
Dave ----
 
  #42  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:06 PM
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Honestly I have been thinking about getting rid of the included dual feed fuel line for my summit carb and making my own out of properly sized hardline ending in a tee to accept the oem screw in fuel filter with the inverted flare inlet. would remove all rubber lines outside of at the fuel tank and pump.

Another option I thought of was getting a older fuel pump with a built in screw in fuel filter and use it. Just don't think it would fit my truck probably be in the way of something.

Currently I am looking at a Carter mechanical pump and I have been thinking about getting a screw in fuel filter with flares and just break the hardline to have the filter screw inline. Problem with that how ever is I would still have a rubber hose at the fuel log unless I make my own out of tubing and tees.

Best way to do it is to eliminate as much rubber hose as you can. But some times on custom builds its hard to do.
 
  #43  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Them wheels is why I had to rebuild the front suspension. They are 5.5 bolt pattern the parts truck was 4.5 and the wheels I got with it did not fit just kind of bolted on so I could roll it. So after all the work I went thru you cant have them LOL. I have been playing out in my head just how I want to finish them. I am thinking of polishing the outer ring and the spokes keeping the rest black.
Dave ----
I guess I could always go back to work and buy the ones I found online. I'd want to get them powder coated black but leave the face of the fins bare/polished.
 
  #44  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:30 PM
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I don't have a problem using rubber fuel line but not 2 or more feet of it.
Some cars from the factory used 3" rubber line on either side of the filter, short rubber line from the frame to pump and another from tank to hardline and that is it.
IIRC NHRA only allows 1 foot total of rubber fuel line and that is what I would try and follow.
Dave ----
 
  #45  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd
I guess I could always go back to work and buy the ones I found online. I'd want to get them powder coated black but leave the face of the fins bare/polished.
That is what I am thinking of but also the out side lip at the tire.
Then again polish the fins and paint the lip red to match the truck to look like "red line tires".
Dave ----
 


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