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Bulletproofing..........help me understand

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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 03:37 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Sparky83
SN95... which was built on the fox body "frame"... 93-04.. dunno if hes looking at the v6 or v8... but the v6's are pretty hard to kill unless you really boost the heck outta them... the T5 (if he gets a manny) that sits behind them is the same as what sat behind the 5.0's.. only difference is the number of splines on the input and output shaft.. 20% of the 04's got sold with the 3.8 the rest are all 1 year run of the 3.9 (238cid).. slightly more power and tq.. but pretty much the same as the 3.8 (232cid).. but that said you can push 11 psi of boost on them and not need to upgrade the internals yet... I know a few running 15psi on them and still havent upgraded.. but 11 tends to be on the safe side...
He really doesn't know what he wants and has never driven a straight gear. I am trying to push him towards something newer since he never really learned much from me working on cars, never got the bug. I do remember from my dealer days the 3.8l engines in Taurus's, Continentals and mustangs having head gasket problems, I left the service department world in 2000.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 04:32 PM
  #47  
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Lots of good information in this thread.

Back to the original question though: You can get a whole lot of the same-year V10 pickup for a lot less than a 6.0 and likely have a lot less trouble with it. You can also get a slightly-older 7.3 pickup and have a lot less trouble with it. Auctioned, chipped, empty-transmission, broken dipstick, etc. pickup is going to be trouble. A dealer who is selling this without topping off the transmission and replacing dipstick(s) is trouble, no matter how [Christian] he claims to be.

For $3,000.00-$5,000.00 purchase price I'd be less concerned. At $10,000.00 and financed, it looks like it will find itself getting paid for while languishing broken somewhere. The bad part is when it eats its transmission (if we were taking bets, this is where my money would be) in a couple of months, making it into a $3,000.00 truck with $10,000.00 still owed on it.

On the bright side, it will use much less fuel while it is parked.

The thing is, some folks have to learn these things the hard way . . . and some don't. I'm not saying either is right or wrong . . . but I will suggest that one is easier and less-expensive than the other. If he can afford the hit then that's his to risk. Part of growing up I guess.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 04:46 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
A dealer who is selling this without topping off the transmission and replacing dipstick(s) is trouble, no matter how [Christian] he claims to be.
I suppose I should clarify so as not to appear to be personally attacking the dealer:

"Trouble" not necessarily saying he's dishonest etc. Not saying he's not.

He goes to an auction, picks this truck up, puts it on the lot with an empty transmission and other obvious issues, and sells it under contract whether he's financing or not. Now it's basically a flip based on KBB or NADA prices versus the auction price with any liabilities being reconciled in his mind (and, likely, contractually) as "buyer beware". That's all fine and good for his position in the process.

On the flip side, now there's an 18-year-old out there that appears to be using googly-eyes to judge the situation that is perhaps not being taken advantage of, but certainly is putting himself in a bad situation. The dealer isn't looking out for him, and the 18YO isn't looking out for himself, but he (and you if you're co-signing) will be the ones stuck in a bad position when steam and smoke start coming out.

The dealer, in the meantime, won't be too concerned with it (unless he's carrying the note and the payments stop coming in) . On the bright side, the dealer didn't try to tell you that it was owned by a little old lady etc. etc.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 05:03 PM
  #49  
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These transmissions are great and not known to consume fluid unless there is a problem. I agree, look for a several thousand dollar expense soon with that thing.

Also, very likely to need another engine soon after spending thousands on upgrades.

Although it would theoretically help him to join here, I don't see it being an actual benefit. There is a lot of good experience and sound advice here. IMO this forum doesn't need someone to ask questions and taking up people's time just to have the advice ignored. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 05:34 PM
  #50  
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I thought I'd throw in my 0.02 here, I've owned several 6.0 trucks, many of them purchased through auctions. Coming from an auction, means nothing, there are so many reasons a truck ends up at auction, maybe it was just too high miles for the dealer that took it on trade. Maybe it had a mechanical fault, maybe it was misdiagnosed, maybe the seller just wanted to send it down the road and not deal with craigslist buyers. The list goes on and on. Some of my best vehicles, that have needed the least amount of work, have been from random auto auctions. I still have an excursion with over 330k on it now that has been one of the most problem free vehicles I've ever purchased - it came from a dealer trade in/repo/consignment auto auction. My latest purchase that I'm actually keeping - was a repo and came from a dealer auction.

Auction - means nothing.

Now as for the truck itself - it doesn't sound like a $9400 truck to me. It sounds like a $5000 truck. If no one even bothered to make sure the trans fluid was showing up on the dipstick, they sure didn't care much about anything else on the truck. I would gamble cheap oil filters were used, cheap oil, oil changes not as often as they should have, the list goes on. Stuff like that- simple things, are big red flags in terms of owner negligence.

If you end up buying it, change all the fluids, Use OEM filters, put the truck back on stock tune, and chuck the tuner out the window. Get it aligned, find a stock air filter locally and install it. The stock filter IS better, sell your aftermarket one, you'll end up ahead cost wise. The oil leak, I lived on a farm for years, if it leaked a little oil, oh well, if you have a driveway, it could be from a lot of places, but the valve cover gasket isn't generally what I see on these trucks.

Bulletproofing - I've owned deleted, studded, tuned trucks, and I've owned stock trucks. I just spent $15k on a tow rig - did I buy a built engine truck? Nope. I bought a bone stock, 2 owner, clean, well maintained truck. Am I going to do a single thing to it outside of regular maintenance? Nope. I'm going to leave it alone. Sometimes working on something will stir up a new can of worms. Now if head gaskets ever do blow - yeah, go ahead and do head studs while you're there, it's only a few hundred bucks more, but would I take head gaskets off a perfectly good truck to do head studs? Not a prayer.

Don't be paranoid - there are thousands and thousands of these trucks running around all over the country working every day, completely bone stock, with no problems. People come on the internet to complain more than the come on the internet to say "hey my 250k mile stock truck is still fine". So everything will look WORSE online. I know dozens of farm trucks with over 250k+ on stock head gaskets, doing just fine. Usually owned by older guys, who can turn a wrench, can change their own oil, don't neglect it, and don't throw a silly tuner on it.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 08:57 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
Sounds like he just wants to roll coal but if he wants a reliable and good all around truck I’d be looking for an older Toyota Tacoma V6.
i couldnt have said it better myself
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 09:08 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by bismic
These transmissions are great and not known to consume fluid unless there is a problem. I agree, look for a several thousand dollar expense soon with that thing.

Also, very likely to need another engine soon after spending thousands on upgrades.

Although it would theoretically help him to join here, I don't see it being an actual benefit. There is a lot of good experience and sound advice here. IMO this forum doesn't need someone to ask questions and taking up people's time just to have the advice ignored. Just my 2 cents.
All those statements are likely to become realities.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 02:21 PM
  #53  
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When this graph references "Pressure at Roller Follower #3", is this Oil Pressure?
Is the graph trying to show that 5W40 protects better?
Most forms seem to show that Rotella 5W40 synthetic is important for the life of the 6.o?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 02:39 PM
  #54  
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Question Oil lubrication speed

Is pressure referring to oil pressure?
Is the graph trying to show 5W40 gets lubrication to the cam quicker and at higher pressure/flow?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 04:49 PM
  #55  
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Yes, oil pressure at the follower. Pressure may not be an indicator of better, but the synthetic oil develops better protection by doing so by a quicker time frame at the test temperature.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 10:03 AM
  #56  
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Many Thanks

Currently using Rotella T4 15-40W, and that chart really caught my attention. Recently started doing Cold Injector Buzz test and noticed Injector 2 a little weak. Though no misfires or balance issues. Is there a reasonable chance Rotella T6 5-40W will clear this up or would you suggest an additive as well (at least on the first change)? In either case, looks like T6 5-40W is a very good oil, and may well be the best oil for the 6.0.

Have learned more in the past few days about 6.0, from people like you here, than since 04 when I bought the truck.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 10:53 AM
  #57  
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I've used T-6 the most, but I would not say it's the best. I've moved on to Delvac.

If you have stiction issues, adding in some Archoil, 9100 will buy you some time, but after 12-18 months, a new injector will be in order.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 11:13 PM
  #58  
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Considering a used 6.0 and would love to see Marks List of things to learn and check

Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Absolutely the same mindset.

I grew up with a stack of Hot Rod under my bed from the age of 7, which meant everything initially got modified. The progression went lawn mowers, tractors, farm truck, my car, motorcycles....... then I got into my 20s. A lot of re-fixing the betterment. Once I got to work in the automotive industry I started to see things differently. The progression of betterment slowed as I understood the design and testing that went behind products. Another awakening was from the aspect that my company had half of its sales to OE for assembly line applications and the other half aftermarket. One week I could b sitting in an engineering meeting in Detroit, then next week working with a sales rep in the aftermarket or being in a meeting with the aftermarket program managers. What a friggin dichotomy. Of course, I have a new reawakening of that currently for a non-brake reason.

With the 6.0 Ford pushed the limits, of the motor and of Int/Nav. They were not up to the task, and I don't mean that in a bad way. They were utility engine builders, Ford wanted Shelby Mustang prominence. Nav's "A bridge too far", which culminated into the 6.4L. As I saw on the brake side with the '99-04 Akebono calipers, Ford can push a manufacturer to do things where the supplier knew better, and it's the end customer that is the one hurting when the dust settles. And the manufacturer too since it gets dropped as a supplier because it did what the customer wanted. (Pricing had a LOT to do with that too, TRW came in below cost).

As Shawn very well stated, International chassis did not have the same failure rates for HG or oil coolers that Ford pickups did, and the warranty for the E-vans was lower than the pickups. That data I used to have access to. From what I remember after 6.0L launch, everyone jumped on getting more power. So it was the head bolts fault (probably not), then the gaskets fault (aftermarket heroes, oops, need Motorcraft), and now that studs are not the Holy Grail, it's o-rings. Ask yourself, why are there 5 different casting numbers of 6.0L heads.

This is a motor that needs an owner who has tolerance and great mechanical abilities, along with a good wallet. Not a dig at Smack Daddy at all, but "I have dropped about $15k in preventative repairs and upgrades to make it run the way I want it to..." after paying $15k for it, could get my first wife, a psychologist, to say you need to lay on the couch. What it's "worth to me" sometimes is self-justification when you can't sell it for that or any reimbursement from an insurance situation.

Whenever someone comes here asking about buying a new truck, Mark usually starts his list of things to learn and test before you buy. It's a good list. New, with a responsible owner (I wasn't one) they can have a good life. Used, the quality of repairs should require a sign installed on the window, quicksand ahead.
any way you can lead me in the direction of this list you mention? I am currently looking at my friends used 6.0 and I’d like to do as much research as possible. Thanks!
 

Last edited by jedis1977; Jun 5, 2021 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Not as specific or clear as I can make it
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 07:27 AM
  #59  
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Go to tech folder above on this page and scroll down to Buying a used 6.0, Bismic (Mark) wrought up a very good list on what to look at.
Good read.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 11:25 PM
  #60  
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Dang, I've never seen this thread before. Looks like a lot of great info, but I'm tipsy and can't read it right now. Dang, first alcohol in a year or so. Why'd I ever like this stuff?

I will add this. It's what I thought just reading the original title of this thread.

 
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