Greeting FTErs.
This is my fourth F150...except it is a Mark LT.

After I backed it out of the garage and shut it off Sunday, it would just crank and crank and crank. No start.
So far, I have:
Checked Fuse #34, #9.
Replace Fuel Pump Driver Module.
Squirt Starting Fluid into manifold.
Check for codes on the OBD2-no codes

I don't know if this means anyting but.....
After trying everything above, the battery ran down. This caused the alarm to activate. I disconnected the negative to get the alarm to shut off, then put it on a charger and brought the battery back to life. When I reconnected the negative cable, the alarm went off again. I disabled the alarm by turning the key on, reconnecting the negative terminal, then shutting the key off.


I have also done the following:
Pray
Scratch my head
Curse
Think

I have now exhausted my resources and I turn to you for advice, insight, explanation etc.
Thanks
Wyoaviator

 

you put the key in the ignition and turn it to ON, not START... You should hear the fuel pump run for 3 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail,,, then stop.... Does that happen ?

When you turn the key to ON, and not START, you get a THEFT light on the dash as the PATS key tries to talk to the Computer... After 3-5 seconds, the key is recognized and the THEFT light goes out... Does that happen ?

Both tests run in the ON position of the key,,,, motor not cranking.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I will check and get back to you. I don't hear the fuel pump over the seatbelt chime.

 

With key on I would make sure you have 12vdc standing on cops and injectors . Pcm will supply grd when it needs to ..
You didn't say whether it coughed when you tried the injection of starting fluid .
Try a spark tester to see if its trying to fire .Is it turning over fast enough .If its laboring you don't want to push it if a cyl full of gas thats hydro lock which can damage engine easily.
If you had torque pro it would tell you what pressure of fuel is on rail . It takes $5 torque pro app/cheap amazon bluetooth reader /an old android phone not even activated .
Of course your grds to pcm and power to same must be good . Reader will not work if power not there .Pats system should not let it crank if thats a problem . Pcm gives start relay ground to crank so your pcm must be running .
Need more info .

 

Standing on cops and injectors? How to check??? I can't even find the spark plugs.
No cough with starter fluid.
Yes, it is cranking fast enough to start...it sounds normal.
I will look into the torque pro.
Thanks

 

Your cops are on top of your plugs . It has a low voltage plug on it that has a release on it same with injectors . with key on either small wire will read 12vdc to grd if its good circuit . The pcm only supplies a grd when it wants to fire the injector or cop during running or starting. It uses the the crank sensor down by the ac compressor, its in the passenger side of the bottom of timing cover . Thats how the pcm knows when to fire . If that sensor or wiring in trouble shes not going to try to fire . It also combines the phaser sensors in that timing .
First make sure that 12vdc is on cops . One indication crank sensor may be working is tach moving while cranking .Check all fuses in your main box passenger side kick panel .
Welcome to engine work ,finding these components and getting familiar with them will do you a world of good . Have a buddy show you some stuff --get dirty .If we can do it you can to.People who don't try will remain helpless .

 

Thank you....
Here goes:
First:
I don't think I hear the fuel pump. I hear some clicking in that area, but I don't think it is the pump.....I bet you are going to tell me to drop the tank and replace the pump aren't you? I don't have a problem with that, other than the vehicle had just backed out of the garage. It traveled about fifty feet, now NOTHING. If that is typical for a fuel pump, then it is what it is.

Second:
With the key ON, the instrument cluster lights up, then all the lights go out except the battery and the engine lights. Everything else works-lights, radio, ALARM, windows, starter etc. It spins fast enough to build oil pressure.
This is a head scratcher. Thanks for any insight you might have.
Wyoaviator

 

Not a problem with getting dirty. I have spent my life in construction and engineering. "
"If we can do it you can to.People who don't try will remain helpless ." I concur, that is why I am here. I would rather fix it myself than stroke a big check for the towing company and a bigger one to the repair place. I can't help but think this is something so simple and obvious I am missing it.


So to check the cops, I have seen the video that shows pulling one out with the spark plug. Do I just stick a multi meter probe into the wring harness and see what I get?

I can certainly check that the tach. comes up when cranking. It spins fast enough to build oil pressure, so it is not a hydraulic issue.

All I did was back it out of the garage and now NOTHING.
If I wasn't bald already, I would pull my hair out.
Thanks for your help. I will get back to you.

 

Okay all that tells us where you are at. Either use a voltmeter or test light . Some times you use a needle on the end off a probe to get in there . . Needle- paper clip dosen't matter just try to get it into the side of connector where wire goes in there usually is enough room and bare metal in there to read voltage ,just slide it in there .
A spark tester can be good it requires you to pull one cop ,just one little bolt holds it ,boot and spring will come up with it . You put spark tester in series to plug, spring carries high voltage thru rubber boot .
Its good your tach coming up means crank sensor working. We just need to see why no spark?? You sprayed start fluid no cough so fuel must not be answer.
Key on you should have 12vdc on either pin going to cop .
Each plug is controlled by the pcm ,its output drivers (8 of them )grds the cop and then breaks it to cause the high volts to flash plug. So the pcm has 8 wires going to the cops to do that . Rodents do get in there and chew wires . but there can be all sorts of other things . There is just one 12vdc feed for all plugs so if it shorts to steel and blows fuse all plugs are dead . Check all fuses in passenger kick panel .Fuel air spark we just need to see whats missing .Even if you can't find it you will learn a lot about your truck and be able to do more later ..

 

Ok, as they say in the movies "the plot thickens..."
On a whim, I cranked it over and I could hear it trying to run.
So, I grabbed the starting fluid and sprayed for a couple of seconds.
Cranked it up and it ran for a couple seconds.
So, I'm now thinking it is not the spark plugs or the PCM, but the fuel system.
Anyone concur with that?

If I'm not hearing the pump run, is there another fuse I should check or something equally as simple before I drop the tank and change out the pump?

Thanks for everything.

 

First-thank you both for your insight. The sharing of knowledge here is priceless.

After I heard it try to run on the starting fluid, I figured I did not have a spark issue.
So, I looked at the fuel tank and how much work it would be to remove it to replace the pump.
I figured I would check voltage at the connection first. Then I went BACK to the fuse panel and pulled fuse 9 again.
I checked it with the multimeter and it was good, so I put it back in.

Then (taa daa) I saw what I call the "crash reset plunger" almost behind the fuse box. The manual says to reset it
if the condition I have described occurs. The problem was, I could never find it. Well, for some reason, I pushed the plunger and felt it click.

Machine fired right up.
Moral of the story: Try the easy stuff first.
Regardless, thank you for your help, insight and encouragement.
Wyoaviator

 

Maybe I missed something here, but how old is the battery? We just had a similar slow start to almost no start condition with an old Ranger that we need to keep alive - it is our plow truck. A new battery fixed it. The old one was almost 6 years old.

 

Sounds like relay or fuse ford mech fixed mine like crap hope that helps

 

Sounds like fuse or relay a bus of mine is a Ford mechanic and he fixed mine I was shocked it was that easy hope this helps