Anyone have a problem with their 6.2's taking a few extra seconds cranking over than normal? It's almost like my ignition switch is sticking in the start position. It always starts but it's noticeable, some more times than others.

 

These trucks even non push to start are really still push to start it's just that they have a key instead of a button, if you put your key in, turn your key real quick to crank and let go you will see what I mean. The computer controls starting and cranking completely. That being said I have not noticed the delay your describing although I almost always remote start.

 

I have noticed the same extended crank a few times with my 6.2, but probably less than 5 times in 23,000 miles. Bump the key to start and it will crank for maybe 10 seconds then it starts and runs fine... I do not hold the key on start, just bump it to get the engine to crank and let off.

 

My 6.2 has done it quite a few times. There’s a tread somewhere. Someone recommended cleaning the battery connection. That might of helped mine. The engine compartment had been detailed so it was oily. The wife hates when it happens. Lol

 

I would not worry about it too much. My work truck has did that from the day it was new. 158,000 miles on the factory starter.

 

I notice that it sometimes takes a couple more revolutions to fire but I wouldn't call it "extended". Last truck was a Tundra and Toyota had similar issue with Flex-Fuel trucks. Something to do with the computer reading the fuel mixture. Mine would act like it didn't want to start sometimes but never left me stranded. A computer flash was the fix for Toyota. It has not been enough of an issue with the SD to warrant a dealer visit.

 

In 2015, Ford began using a slower starter motor on the 6.2L. My theory was the longer crank time was intentional to combat the rattling lifter sound you might otherwise hear. My 2012 6.2L would start almost instantly and you would hear a quick one second sharp rattle as oil pressure was restored to the lifters. These 6.2L trucks do not use a direct-acting bucket like the EcoBoost trucks do, but rather they have a very small lifter located in the end of the rocker arm. Oil flows through a narrow passage in the rocker to pressurize the lifter. Depending upon what position the cams stopped in, valve spring pressure could literally squeeze oil out of the lifter. These lifters don't hold much oil in them anyway because of their size, and some may be weaker than others. That sound drove me nuts.

My 2015 truck cranked more slowly for a slightly longer duration, which allowed more oil pressure to build during cranking rather than while the engine was running. I almost never heard that little startup rattle.

Crank time is computer controlled, and duration really only needs to be as long as it takes for the fuel pump to pressurize the injectors and begin pulsing fuel. But maybe the computer has an algorithm for crank time based upon cam position, or perhaps it reads fuel pressure before firing the injectors / coils.

 

Good to know I'm not imagining it. Interesting about the key start, vs push button start but that makes sense. I always let go of the key immediately once it starts to crank so that explains it. I appreciate all the replies!

 

I had the same problem. When it was totally cold/first start in the morning it would fire right up. If I went some where, parked it for around 1-5 hours and tried to start it, it would crank until it would slowly turn over or would just crank all the way out then stop. If it cranked all the way out, the second crank it would always start instantly. I changed the fuel pump and that fixed the problem, it’s been 60,000 miles. Only problem now is after refueling from an empty tank it will turn over but instantly die after starting, then have an instant really hard start on the second crank then runs fine, if that makes any sense. That part could be me doing something wrong on the installation, I’m not sure.

 

Timely post. I just had this condition fixed at the dealer (fortunately with an extended warranty). There's a check valve in the fuel pump to keep the fuel rails pressurized all the time. If that check valve leaks, then fuel needs to be pumped back into the rails to start the engine. Hence the long cranking (after starting, my truck ran fine). It's fairly easy to check this with a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. My pressure bled off within seconds of turning off the engine. The bad news is the fuel pump is located inside the gas tank, so it was a fairly big job to replace it. Someday hopefully Ford will place an access port in the bed so we don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace the pump... This is becoming a common problem in older 6.2. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to replace the fuel pump in you're a DIY'er.

 

its not just the older ones. i think ours is 2022 and it long cranks

 

There is a thread somewhere on this site that talks about this and one of the solutions was to add an external check valve. Maybe someone on here knows what thread I am talking about.

 

A year and a half ago, I followed the thread on long crank issues and replaced my fuel pump myself in the driveway with the latest part number, ordering from Tasca. All was well, but the last few months I have had a longer than normal crank from time to time. My advice? Unless its longer than 7 or 8 seconds, just leave it be.

 

My 2019 6.2 has this same issue, but I have not bit the bullet on the fuel pump replacement, yet. What I cannot reconcile in my simple brain, is if the check valve is failing and letting pressure drop, that hard start should happen EVERY time the truck is started, after the fuel pressure has dropped.

In my case, if the truck is fully heat soaked, and sits for 2 to 4 hours (4 being worse), the truck ALWAYS stumbles, sputters and struggles to come to life. If the truck is heat soaked, and allowed to fully cool, like overnight, it fires right up, every single time.

If the check valve is failing, and causing the truck to hard start in the heat soaked condition, how is fuel pressure rebuilding upon cooling for several hours? OR, what is going on that allows the fuel pressure to build MORE RAPIDLY in a cold start situation? Once the check valve fails, and the pressure drops, that condition should be true if the truck is hot or cold, or regardless of how long it has sat between run cycles.

I am certainly no expert on Ford 6.2 fuel systems, so I'm just spit ball'n here, but is it possible that the fuel is vaporizing in the fuel lines in the heat soaked condition, and once it cools, the fuel returns to liquid and allows rapid fuel pressure buildup? Maybe I should try running ethanol free fuel for a few tanks and see if there's a difference.

This one is a real head scratcher for me. LOL