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I'm tearing down my Dana 44•6F front end and like to have manuals with illustrations and stuff so I know what to expect, the hub is clearly marked WARN M4. My Ford Shop Manual's image is not what I am looking at on the truck so I'm wondering if this is original. Even if it isn't I want to go through it and can't seem to find an exploded image of an M4 or any information anywhere.
This drum hasn't released yet, still soaking it with blaster, was able to get the screws out, was getting impatient and the hub is coming off anyway so I started disassembly and will continue. I was just hoping someone had some info on these hubs and I need a couple allen head bolts that were missing. The two pins aren't missing they came off with the cap and I just stopped to find some info before getting back to it.
well now i don't need a diagram but I could use a parts source, I'd like to replace the o-ring and the outer rubber ring on the selector **** on both sides
1959-1965 F100/250 4x4 used the early C0TZ-1104-A Warn M4 free-running hubs. I've not yet seen any good blow-up of this hub design.
On the other hand the Dana (Spicer) "Hub-Lok" design is well documented.
Some of the individual parts are starting to get quite rare on these.
In 1966 they changed to the newer design C6TZ-1104-B (Warn M167 silver manual, M198 black manual) or C6TZ-1104-F (Warn M75 lock-o-matic).
♦ Obtain replacement details as required from authorized Warn service outlets
Warn provided the service kits for the hubs. Included O-rings, snap rings and the small hex cap screws. This kit is, of course, different than what you would need.
Thanks Chad,
Another interesting thing to learn about. In looking at the two in the shop manual they both appear to employ a cam like method of engaging the gear whereas this M4 uses a very positive thread method that pushes the gear in and pulls it back out, no springs to rely on. I can take better pictures if you want to see it clearly. Actually mine are in very good shape the rubber on the outside of the ****, even with a light coat of slippery grease, binds a bit and makes it very hard to turn, I thought it was on the way out but it seals very well almost too well but at least now I know what is going on when I turn them and am sure they are working.
That's it! they don't show the **** taken apart, when you take that screw out the threaded center piece and washer and a locating pin come off, there is the o-ring you see in the picture under there and around the outside of the brass **** is a rubber edge, I called it an o-ring but it is flat and has to be, the clearance is tight I didn't try to dig it out or mess it up because it appears to be very tight and won't leak. So that big o-ring must be between the cap and the outer coupling, I am missing that one entirely. they must show this stuff in the parts book no? Thanks in advance for your effort.
The small one is about 1 1/8" the the others not so much, the drive pins are 2 3/4" OD so that one in the picture would have to go outside them and the collar on the cap is 3" so that would have to be the ID of the ring
the brass **** is 2 3/8"
I see that Warn makes screw kits for $5. a wheel that look right, summit racing has some
I'm learning a lot by looking at your pictures. The ones for 1966 are quite a bit different - only 6 cap screws per side instead of 8 and the internals are completely different. Just for comparison...
The lock-o-matics were sort of a funky design to themselves. If you were going down a good incline in 4x4 they could sometimes disengage on their own. Not necessarily what you'd want in that situation.
wow nice selection! I see that I can just go to the parts store and get new ones and they'll fit, who knew that one of the most standardized parts even between truck brands are locking hubs!
yes, I don't even like the new designs as much, if the ones I have don't get mucked up it is a very simple and positive mechanism.
I got everything off and found that my pivot bearing were shot too, the u-joint was really shot, I am thinking that my Dana is a lot tighter than I thought, most of the play was in the axles and hubs. I am replacing EVERYTHING except what's in the pumpkin (I am doing the pinion seal)
Uh Oh, so I go to order the stuff and I am not finding the stuff in most places. I need the spindle bearings and races, upper and lower both sides, they appear to be the same. I also need the felt and rubber spindle seals both sides. Any chance you have part numbers for those?
B9C-3126-A - Cup - (spindle bolt bearing) - stamped 11520 - 4 each
C1TZ-3132-A r.b.D4TZ-3132-A - Seal kit - 2 each
This seal kit can be a bit expensive. I've found the best price so far is at Napa for their NOS 43746 part number. The stamped number on the bearings is a Timken part number. You can always search on the Timken number, too, for more choices. I only use Timken bearings myself since then I know they are made in the USA. Bowers is a decent brand, too, but for my trucks I'm avoiding it and Koyo (Japan) or other offshore brands.
Super thanks I already ordered the NAPA kits and got the Dad's day 10%, finding an insane difference in prices for the bearings, I looked at NAPA's to maybe add them to the order and they want $35 for the cone and $23 for the race, they've got a national with the right timkin number for $20 for the cone and $9. for the race at Oreilly at the bottom end.
I usually like moog or timkin but I won't put 50K on the truck in my lifetime so I have to watch how much I'm spending, as you know…
I got some moog u-joints for the axles when I picked up the four way socket so I can take apart the drivers side now, he quoted me somewhere in between those and I am not sure what brand.
