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I sent you a PM with some ideas on how to score parts cheaper than those prices. No mystery, just some examples. For the axle shaft joints I like the Spicer ones in the NOS Ford boxes, but Moog is a good brand no doubt. Can't go wrong there. One of the examples I sent you may not be Timken - I ask if it's not clear - sometimes Timken stamped them in different places.
well the first thing I saw on the axle is SPICER on the caps so from that and the condition it is in I figure out of all the parts on this truck at least it could be an original! Ah ha ha ha
got a nut socket and got the other side off, only one of the spindle bearings was good, this was the upper right side and yes that race is actually broken the other two bad ones the races were seriously pitted and chamfered glad I got all four, the spicer u-joint on the left side seemed pretty good but its going, I don't want to have to open this up again in the next 15 to 20K or ever, its gonna work but I'm sure am not going to beat on it like it was
Hi Chad,
I still need the bolts, I had to laugh as half of the bolts on the driver's side were actually countersunk machine screws. I've been up to other stuff but have been looking, my last local hope hardware store had nice stainless phillips cap bolts but only in 10/24 not 32. I may end up paying the shipping for those other ones. I got the bearings at Oreilly surprisingly they were the best price, I hope to start assembling the front end today actually, the driver's side knuckle still has the steering arm that doubles as the upper bearing pin STUCK in it, I have tried just about everything to get it off except a good big shop press although trying to support the casting right looks sketchy, I've broken stuff that looks more rugged. I was able to disassemble it with it in so I hope I can reassemble it as well.
I just started putting stuff together with some fresh paint and the first of the new parts and I need to start a thread of the whole thing as the weather is cooperating and I should make good progress, lots of interesting stuff I've found and wonder about, I think I'll call it "if this truck could talk", I'll try to get to it later this afternoon.
You didn't say how many it wanted and since you had two I thought perhaps more than one so when I saw the name stop pin I thought maybe a depth control for the drive pins or something but no, then I thought oh yeah the locator pin to drive the threaded center as that is not in the illustration but no, there it is, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts it's the tiny little pin up in the cap that stops to insert at either extreme when the locator ball pops in the indent, one per side.
Chad,
Have you found any illustrations of the cap? The one in the picture has a rubber ring that seats on the outside of the brass, the other side has it too and it turns fairly easily, this one binds badly, lubed or not you need channel locks to turn the damn thing. Seems swollen or something. Obviously it needs to be tight as it and the o-ring are the oil seals at the end of the axle but this is too tight. Do any of the different ones you have have a rubber gasket on the ****?
Lol, OK back to being serious. If you just assemble them on the bench does it turn hard also? Or only if it is installed on the truck?
If the brass **** "channel" where the rubber rides has even one high spot where it isn't letting the rubber lay down in the channel nicely I can imagine it would be tight. Or if the rubber ring has a flaw where they joined it. Maybe? I think the O-ring they call for around the outside edge of that brass control is likely the 1 7/8" I.D. ring. Yes, they probably stretch it some to get it in place. Not too uncommon for an O-ring to be a stretch fit.
I can't find my control ***** yet - I know they are here somewhere - but I bet if you removed the rubber ring and could get calipers down in the groove around the outside edge it is probably, what, 2 1/4"? If so they would only have to stretch the rubber ring about 3/8". That's not bad for a larger O-ring like that. More than that to install it but by the time it settles into place?
It is tight when you put it in the cap all by itself, it is not hard to put in it and seems to make the proper amount of contact pressure to seal. The rubber feels gommy is the best word I can think of like almost beginning to break down, it is too soft but still intact, most likely the reason for the friction. In my wild imagination I am thinking maybe the guy who worked on this in the 90s may have soaked it in ethanol gas or something which would swell and breakdown rubber from the 60s. It is not really an O-ring it looks more like a flat belt, I was going to pull it off and see what's up and I got it up a little and could tell it was stretching and not wanting to go back in but it looked like a layered composite not a solid piece of rubber. BUT I am pretty sure from making stupid mistakes in the past that if I pull it off that will be the end of it, I will never get it back. If I can be sure to get even a regular o-ring to work I will yank it in a second.
I was thinking about trying some sandpaper to take some material off it then grease it and see if I can get it to turn easier. I am glad in a way because when I couldn't turn it easily before I took it apart I was expecting the mechanism to be the problem and it is in great shape. I really want to get this hub together ASAP as my plan is to get it to rolling chassis stage as I finish off the prep and paint, I will measure the brass and go to the hardware store and see what they have for o-rings.
Did you know that those pins were for this hub from a parts list? any mention of rubber rings? there are three including this one, only one big one in the hub proper like in the 61 manual pic any others would be the two for this ****.
Ed, I wouldn't sand it any. I did find a few more parts I was looking for in the attic. The brass control comes without a rubber O-ring installed. I measured down in the channel where it goes and got 2 1/4" O.D. like I suspected - so the 1 7/8" O-ring seems like the one. See post #7 for part numbers of the 3 O-rings.
In your picture from yesterday it shows the pin and screw - different pin than in my other post - that smooth sided one is what? 3/16" diameter? How long is it? Can you take a picture of the head of that screw and also measure how long it is from stem to stern? No mention of some of these parts in the MPC. The thread pitch and size can probably be figured out from the threaded center hole in the brass control. The depth of the threaded hole in the brass control I get at about 17/64" and inside the thread diameter of probably a 1/4". I found a bolt that threads in fine but I haven't checked it yet to see what thread.
I will get that info for you soon. The pins you had were like 1/8" diameter or even smaller right? I think they get driven into the soft metal cap and that acts as the stop for the brass when turning, its right between the ball locators in the cap in my picture.
Thanks for the o-ring info I will head to the hardware store. I do see in the 61 manual you posted in the one shot we have of the cap that the screw can be a regular flat head too.
Yes, 1/8" x 21/64" long and I do believe you are correct about where they go.
I can see most of the part numbers and I'm sure I've seen the drawing of this hub before, too, in the MPC. I just haven't had much time to look for it yet.
The pin is 5/32" diameter and 9/16ths length, the screw is 1/2" long, 3/16ths diameter, is that a No. 10? and I can't put my hands on my thread gauge but it is coarse, looks like 20, the head is 1/2" wide and the allen wrench is 1/8".
