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Here's what we've been looking for. Looks like the check ball and spring are part of the brass control ****. I was wondering how a person might replace those but I think maybe it's not something they had planned anyone to do. The 5/32" diameter pin and screw as well as a couple of other pieces have the small triangle next to them indicating they were only part of the complete kit.
I will need more time to look but I *think* I have some of the rebuild kits for these. Includes the 3 O-rings, at least.
great find thanks, yeah the ball and spring in the cap is a factory press job, that would be a challenge if not impossible to replace, both of mine float ok
I would be happy to offer you money for a rebuild kit or two if you can find them, or a number for greene's. I have neither big o-ring and in truth a fresh set in each one sounds just right
I found the other stuff I was looking for. The kits include more than you might need - 3 O-rings and 2 snap rings. I don't have as many complete kits as I thought but I do have a few of just the small and middle sized O-rings, too. The middle sized ring that goes around the edge of the brass control isn't quite like the others. The rubber itself is sort of a U shape, sort of a hollow O-ring. Here's pics of the small and medium sized ones. Oddly the large one is readily available at a LOT of places.
If you want these four PM me your address and I'll send them your way - no charge.
If you go on Rearcounter or even better Partsvoice.com and key in the number of the large ring (87147-S91) they are plentiful. The small and medium sizes seem to be the more difficult to find.
When I was cleaning the interior of the right hub I noticed the Thrust Washer was on the back of the outer coupling with the snap ring instead of on the inside. I took the inner coupling out thinking it was a bushing type sleeve and thank god I did it slowly because there are rollers in there, like thirty, loose, no cage. Luckily the grease was holding them in so I was able to gingerly pull it off and reassemble with the washer in the right place. The left however was very loose even though the washer was in the right place, sadly I knew I had to take it apart and indeed it is missing one or two rollers, it appears to spin OK and actually had quite a few miles on it the way it is but even if it works for a while I have to fix or replace it.
So I am frantically looking for one 61 - 65 WARN M4, or part numbers that I doubt exist for bearing rollers but maybe for the Inner and outer coupling assembly, I hope I don't have to go with something far from stock.
Ed if you refer back to post #31 above you are probably after the 1092 bearing, correct? It was not loose rollers but was a cage bearing as you can probably see in that drawing. They can be found on eBay using the Torrington B2610 cross reference.
Thanks again Chad,
I couldn't see that image as big as I'd like and didn't think it was big enough for a bearing in there when I opened it up and the rollers looked loose enough, a little crooked, I've had bearings fall apart on me in the past so I pushed it right back together, and then when i saw the other one with missing teeth I mistakenly reaffirmed my mistake. So looking like two new bearings coming up. I will still be looking for parts, the 1101 "clutch" on that left one was spun when it was less than halfway on and there is material missing luckily the 1092 splines are good, it does look like when fully engaged it seats far enough in and meshes well but seeing as that IS the thing actually engaging the hub I would like a new one, do you have a number on that?
I ordered 2 of the bearings and rearcounter found one clutch in olathe KS. I requested a price. I also requested a price on those cap screws from Carpenter but I think the place i found the SS ones will get an order for 25 at $3. with $9 shipping. We're getting there…
1. Gary at NOS Parts Source in Olathe never has ANYTHING that I've asked about despite it showing an on-hand quantity greater than zero each time for whatever part.
2. Dennis Carpenter wants over $5 each for those Allen screws plus shipping. You'll have 25 for less than the cost of 2.
well ya gotta try, I'll keep my eye out, I have yet to contact Bill's junkyard in NY a fellow forum member clued me into, he has many trucks in his yard, I was building up the coffers as I may make a daytrip if he has anything I need like a rear bumper and tailgate and maybe an M4, I just hope it works for a while and it may be fine i'm not 4 wheelin' with it, a little plowing maybe so maybe it'll last…
I'm going to order those cap screws in a minute
What parts are you needing for your hub? I believe I have 3 sets that I have taken off some of the 4x4 61-66 trucks that I have owned when I replaced them with new warn hubs. I would be glad to check to see if I have the parts you are looking for. I'm in WV. Lewis
What a godsend, I sure hope you do have a "clutch" like this (with all its teeth intact) and even though I like to keep old stuff with a little character the cap itself is kinda beat up. Lemme know, I'll PM you my particulars.
So it looks like Lewis has what I need, this forum is awesome for that,
here is the state of the needle bearing in the left side, it still turned like it kinda had a bearing in there if you can imagine
Thanking Chad I got the bearings, two on ebay for $25. and the "good" one fell apart when I was pressing it out so now they both look like the latter shot. Ahhh…All together now awaiting a new clutch and cap!
Oh still not the right o-rings, my center ones seem fine, they are flexible and fit tightly in the cap. Interestingly the measurements listed in the beginning don't seem right at all, The biggest o-ring that the hardware store had was 2 3/16"ID by 3/16", it stretched onto the selector but it is too thin and doesn't really provide any notable seal or friction. I measure it at 2 1/4" x 3/16" ring might be the right one, that 1/16 " might make the difference. However, on the outer one, I did find a dried up broken one that I didn't even see when I took it apart, it is actually 2 3/4" ID but it is thin, maybe 1/8" or less as it actually slides inside the hub.
Still looking will post the final result.
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