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My AC wasn’t working , stopped blowing cold air after 10-15 minutes of driving. I had it checked for leaks and was told the system was charged up and not leaking, but the fanclutch needed replaced. Soon after I noticed leaking at the top of the radiator. I ordered the BPD radiator, 7.3 mechanical fan clutch and water pump. After installing, I have the same issue. AC works great when first starting. After about 20 minutes, temps around 190 the AC compressor stops.
I took it to the dealership for a diagnostic, thinking maybe something was plugged up. They told me it was because I had the wrong fanclutch installed. That having the wires not connected from the factory fanclutch, the AC and fan clutch aren’t getting commands to turn on. After all the reading I’ve done before ordering these parts, I haven’t heard of this issue. I’ll pick up a factory fan clutch and change it if needed, but something doesn’t seem right.
Truck is a late 2004, 6.0.
Appreciate any advice.
Thinking of going with the 7.3 fan clutch too. would like to know the outcome. What I heard is that the AC would blow colder air. On another note, Did you see any difference in EOT or ECT when you switched over to the 7.3 fan clutch?
It’s only been a couple weeks. I haven’t really had a chance to test it on the highway much. I have a 4 hr trip planned for this weekend. Just city driving the last 2 weeks I haven’t gone over 192 degrees and 3 degree delta between eot and ect. I also did a coolant flush and switched to the red stuff while I was at it. It hasn’t gotten too hot in KC yet, but can definitely tell when the AC doesn’t work.
Did the dealership bother checking pressures or did they just look and say that was the fault?
The system might not be happy with signals missing but it should work.
I would go to an independent AC place to have it checked.
They said they checked the system for pressure and leaks, and all was good. They seemed so sure the wrong fan clutch is the issue. They told me I have a gas engine's fan clutch. I told them it's a 7.3 diesel mechanical clutch. I've just never seen this issue on this forum before. I think I will get another opinion, Probably another $120 minimum to have someone take a look.
This sounds more like an AC issue than fan issue. The pressure might be getting to high from the heat and cutting it out. I'd bring it to a shop and have them put pressure gauges on it and see what it's doing. It may be simply overcharged.
Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I can find some gauges later this week. Might be a few days before I have a chance to test it early morning before work. While the compressor is working. I'll be searching for videos on replacing the pressure switch. Hopefully a do it yourself job.
Stopping after 10-20 minutes sounds to me more like the clutch plates have worn and it starts to slip. You can check the clearance and get adjustment washers, if the clutch hasn't worn too much.
Actually one afternoon last week when it was not working, I crawled under and tapped it with a 2 foot breaker bar. I did get it to spin for a little bit, then it stopped, whether I put pressure on it or tapped it. Before throwing more money and buying a clutch I was hoping Ford would test the system and give me a proper diagnosis. I'll try to check the gap next time.
I have been running the BPD 7.3 fan clutch conversion for over 3 years, that is NOT your problem! Sounds like incorrect air gap or a bad AC clutch, or possibly bad high or low pressure switches. The shop that told you it was the fan clutch is blowing smoke, or may just smokin' some bad stuff.
Before throwing more money and buying a clutch I was hoping Ford would test the system and give me a proper diagnosis.
Ford shops like to blame anything that is not factory for your issues... once they see its modified they blame whatever fancy new parts been added or changed as the cause for why something else isnt working... there are alot of people on here running the 7.3 clutch on their 6.0's without issue...
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