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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Battery selection

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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 07:04 AM
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Battery selection

Hello Forum,
Looking for suggestions an knowledge on battery replacement advice. I have a 1953 F250 with 215 6. It has 12 volt conversion I believe. I don’t get it out whole lot maybe once a week. Rural King 58 R-60 is what’s in it now. I’m recently new to classic truck world so I’m learning as I go. Below are pictures of the motor. I’ve replaced plug wires, plugs, ignition coil, gaskets, cleaned up intake and exhaust manifold and rebuilt carburetor. Added hot rod air filter. Oil bath would not stay on good.

Thanks,
Casey



 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 03:26 PM
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I've had really good luck out of my Optima red top. Been in the truck for 5+ years, and I only drive mine about once a week, sometimes less. Usually don't drive it at all from November through February. I've never had to boost it or charge it. I know the Optimas are pricey, but there are several other manufacturers that are making AGM style batteries now.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 04:46 PM
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Awesome thank you!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 05:02 PM
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I went through the same investigations a few months ago and after researching I decided that the AGM (optima, etc) weren't worth the extra cash for me.. You didn't mention WHERE your battery is located but I assume in the standard battery location. Mine was on the frame rail in a drop down box. Since you're already 12vdc your options are only limited by size and Visa Balance. When did batteries get so dang expensive.

I'd measure my battery for width, length AND height. I'd buy the largest group that will easily fit with the highest cranking amps available. There are tables available on the net showing group #s with sizes and CCA ratings. Here's one... after you find the size you can look into CCA ratings https://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm

Mine was a group 27 with 810 CCA. But I'm turning over a fresh 460. Your 6 banger won't pull that many amps.

I'd also advise since this is a restore to change out the battery cables if they are suspect at all... Walmart/ internet cables won't do. I went with heavy welding cable... you can't go wrong with bigger... same for the grounds also. I've attached an article I did on my wiring... if you want, slide down a ways and see what I put in on battery cables... it's good info.

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/wiring/wiring.htm

hope this helps

john

almost forgot... whatever you choose, make sure you have an easy way to remove it if it's enclosed in a battery box or tray... once you drop it in, you gotta get it out someday
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 06:21 PM
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If you don't drive it a lot it won't matter what battery is installed, it probably won't last as long as it should. Buy a "smart" charger, one that has a float charge setting. Can leave it hooked up permanently, it supplies just enough juice to keep the battery from running down. The alternator will thank you, too.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 06:20 AM
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Battery is mounted in passenger side floor. It’s a small battery moves around a lot I will have to find better way to secure the new one. Prob order new box for it as well. Thanks for all the feedback!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 08:11 AM
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It's important the battery is secured tight against movement, sliding, or rocking. A bungee cord, though authentic, is not going to work very well. Heat, and vibration, are big battery killers.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 10:48 AM
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How about some pictures of that truck?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 11:35 AM
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 01:29 PM
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Holy smokes what a great looking truck!
keep us posted on what you come up with to secure the battery. I’ve been looking at that too with the little open box under the floorboard you don’t have a lot of room.
 
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