2004 Intermittent start question
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 882
2004 Intermittent start question
Hi guys,
2017 I tore the engine out and aside from all the other things I did, I replaced the standpipes/dummy plugs, the HPOP branch tube assy and associated orings. My year truck does not have the STC so I am good there.
I remove my FICM relay at night (daily and when parked in sketchy places) for theft deterrent reasons. I noticed one morning after sitting 15+ hours the cranking was a no start at all. I thought the FICM relay missed a prong when I reinserted it and it was fine. I got back in and cranked it for 5 seconds before it started. The next morning when I did not remove the FICM (at work) it started normal.
Two days ago I pulled in after driving it, went to restart it and prolonged crank with no start....try again and it started. I thought FK ME high pressure oil leak.
Yesterday, drove to the store and it restarted no issue, went to another location where it sat for 8 hrs started no problem.......got home and I tried in the driveway.......no restart.
My values yesterday were KOEO IPR-14.4 ICP-0
My values at cranking with NO start IPR 23.5 ICP 657
I did some reading and I am not sure on the IPR value but the ICP is well above the 500 it takes to fire the engine.
I grabbed a new FICM relay I had in the truck and it started right up numerous times, shortly after the no start a few minutes earlier.
What do you guys think of the values during the NO start situation?
"COULD" it be the FICM relay failing or bad connection from removing it/reinstalling it daily?
I am just hoping it is not my HPOP going out or any of the associated new OEM components I recently changed trying to avoid this.
Thanks for the help and any advice is welcomed.
2017 I tore the engine out and aside from all the other things I did, I replaced the standpipes/dummy plugs, the HPOP branch tube assy and associated orings. My year truck does not have the STC so I am good there.
I remove my FICM relay at night (daily and when parked in sketchy places) for theft deterrent reasons. I noticed one morning after sitting 15+ hours the cranking was a no start at all. I thought the FICM relay missed a prong when I reinserted it and it was fine. I got back in and cranked it for 5 seconds before it started. The next morning when I did not remove the FICM (at work) it started normal.
Two days ago I pulled in after driving it, went to restart it and prolonged crank with no start....try again and it started. I thought FK ME high pressure oil leak.
Yesterday, drove to the store and it restarted no issue, went to another location where it sat for 8 hrs started no problem.......got home and I tried in the driveway.......no restart.
My values yesterday were KOEO IPR-14.4 ICP-0
My values at cranking with NO start IPR 23.5 ICP 657
I did some reading and I am not sure on the IPR value but the ICP is well above the 500 it takes to fire the engine.
I grabbed a new FICM relay I had in the truck and it started right up numerous times, shortly after the no start a few minutes earlier.
What do you guys think of the values during the NO start situation?
"COULD" it be the FICM relay failing or bad connection from removing it/reinstalling it daily?
I am just hoping it is not my HPOP going out or any of the associated new OEM components I recently changed trying to avoid this.
Thanks for the help and any advice is welcomed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The contacts in the relay socket are not meant to be used that way and I would be
worried that you might have one that is loosing it spring tension.
A better way to do it might de something ike finding the wire that controls the coil of the relay
and creating a splice with a switch somewhere that does not stand out and placing the switch
where it's not likely to be easy to find for someone that does not know it's there. The reason for
the coil side of the relay is so you don't have to use some high powered switch. They tend to
be large and costly.
EDIT: Do you have something to read live data?
Watch the FICM main power. If the relay is not passing power when you turn the key on you
will see 48v and when you go to start the 48v will drop like a stone. It's the same reaction
as you would get if the big 50A fuse was blown.
worried that you might have one that is loosing it spring tension.
A better way to do it might de something ike finding the wire that controls the coil of the relay
and creating a splice with a switch somewhere that does not stand out and placing the switch
where it's not likely to be easy to find for someone that does not know it's there. The reason for
the coil side of the relay is so you don't have to use some high powered switch. They tend to
be large and costly.
EDIT: Do you have something to read live data?
Watch the FICM main power. If the relay is not passing power when you turn the key on you
will see 48v and when you go to start the 48v will drop like a stone. It's the same reaction
as you would get if the big 50A fuse was blown.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 882
- during the no start it was constant while cranking for 10 seconds
- I am sure the scan gauge II will allow me to watch that
- I will try that
Update as of today. Since replacing the FICM relay with a new (er) one, the truck has not given me any issues whatsoever. I am still not buying that was the issue, but as of today the truck has started with no problems.I will continue to monitor.
I also pulled the ICP after the truck sat for 24hrs on an incline and the oil was still right up at the sensor orifice, so the tubes are not draining. Not sure if that really means anything but I read that somewhere and I wanted to look.
The contacts in the relay socket are not meant to be used that way and I would be
worried that you might have one that is loosing it spring tension. - Funny you mention that because it obviously became much easier to remove over time
A better way to do it might be something like finding the wire that controls the coil of the relay
and creating a splice with a switch somewhere that does not stand out and placing the switch
where it's not likely to be easy to find for someone that does not know it's there. The reason for
the coil side of the relay is so you don't have to use some high powered switch. They tend to
be large and costly.- That is my next plan for sure....great idea
EDIT: Do you have something to read live data? I have a scan gaugeII
Watch the FICM main power. If the relay is not passing power when you turn the key on you
will see 48v and when you go to start the 48v will drop like a stone. It's the same reaction
as you would get if the big 50A fuse was blown.
worried that you might have one that is loosing it spring tension. - Funny you mention that because it obviously became much easier to remove over time
A better way to do it might be something like finding the wire that controls the coil of the relay
and creating a splice with a switch somewhere that does not stand out and placing the switch
where it's not likely to be easy to find for someone that does not know it's there. The reason for
the coil side of the relay is so you don't have to use some high powered switch. They tend to
be large and costly.- That is my next plan for sure....great idea
EDIT: Do you have something to read live data? I have a scan gaugeII
Watch the FICM main power. If the relay is not passing power when you turn the key on you
will see 48v and when you go to start the 48v will drop like a stone. It's the same reaction
as you would get if the big 50A fuse was blown.
Update as of today. Since replacing the FICM relay with a new (er) one, the truck has not given me any issues whatsoever. I am still not buying that was the issue, but as of today the truck has started with no problems.I will continue to monitor.
I also pulled the ICP after the truck sat for 24hrs on an incline and the oil was still right up at the sensor orifice, so the tubes are not draining. Not sure if that really means anything but I read that somewhere and I wanted to look.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,122
From: Jersey Shore
Those relays are 70 amp and pull a lot of current. I’ve pulled a couple apart at 100k and the contacts were well pitted. As part of my PM I replace those every 100k miles based on my starting frequency, and that’s a typical 3 starts per day.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,922
Likes: 3,638
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,122
From: Jersey Shore
It can’t be that simple, it just can’t. I need to have to spend more money to fix a 6.0! 
Let’s hope he doesn’t.
Let’s hope he doesn’t.
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 882
HAHA I am in full skeptic mode!
It just broke my heart that after all that work and preventative parts I threw at the engine when she was out and this happens?!?!
Let's just say I almost shed a tear.
I will keep updates if anything changes
Thanks for letting me cry on your shoulders....AGAIN LOL
It just broke my heart that after all that work and preventative parts I threw at the engine when she was out and this happens?!?!
Let's just say I almost shed a tear.
I will keep updates if anything changes
Thanks for letting me cry on your shoulders....AGAIN LOL
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