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To keep me from buying a burette kit(for a one time use), to measure the cc's of my D2TE-A heads, does anybody have the combustion chamber volume? Scat lists 72cc and 76cc, but somewhere in the back of my mind 74cc was mentioned. I know it makes only .4 difference low to high, but it could be the difference of going over 10.0 compression ratio.
Let's hope 3 is a charm! Found another D3TE mirror 105 (501) block this morning. Pulling the engine apart and taking it to the machine shop on Thursday, with my fingers crossed. Pan was to the full mark on oil, and the engine rotated with a breaker bar without removing the spark plugs!
To keep me from buying a burette kit(for a one time use), to measure the cc's of my D2TE-A heads, does anybody have the combustion chamber volume? Scat lists 72cc and 76cc, but somewhere in the back of my mind 74cc was mentioned. I know it makes only .4 difference low to high, but it could be the difference of going over 10.0 compression ratio.
Thanks for any help,
Dan
As I recall they're nominally 68-72 ccs. 4 ccs on a 445 cube motor doesn't translate to any great difference in the ratio, maybe a 1/4 point. With the right cam it should be fine on 89 octane with a 10 to 1 ratio. Keep the LSA under 110. The bigger the motor, the tamer the cam will be. Take a die grinder to the edges of the chambers and chamfer them, wouldn't hurt to polish those chambers either, but it would likely mean doing another valve job afterwards unless you're extremely careful to steer clear of the seats. An old set of valves in place while polishing will prevent this. And the extra ccs created will help keep the comp ratio down too, but not by much. Keeping the ignition timing down while towing would also help as will using premium fuel.
To keep me from buying a burette kit(for a one time use), to measure the cc's of my D2TE-A heads, does anybody have the combustion chamber volume? Scat lists 72cc and 76cc, but somewhere in the back of my mind 74cc was mentioned. I know it makes only .4 difference low to high, but it could be the difference of going over 10.0 compression ratio.
Thanks for any help,
Dan
.4 is right and you are right that it could be relevant enough to cause issue given the right circumstances. Heads that have been milled down once already lose even more cc's. At some point the next cc lost breaks the build for its intended use.
You gotta ask yourself if it is worth the extra few hp to face the risk. Once you are in the area where you can't get timing correct, it's a total bust. If you hit detonation issues furthering your advance before your power dips back down (in other words the timing is still giving you power gains at the point of detonation), then the compression, safe to say, is too high.
What I'm looking for is a good D3TE or D4TE in a F100 to F350 to use the block as the base for a stroker engine. My intentions are for the engine to have good torque from 1800 - 5000 rpms (Lunati has a good cam profile for that). The heart of the engine will be a Scat rotating assembly with a 4.125" stroke and a compression ratio of not greater than 9.8. This should give me a fun truck to drive around, with enough torque to tow my Thunderbird to shows of greater distances.
The desire for a D3 or D4TE block is the better webbing. The most recent cracked block was a "mirror 105" which I had high hopes would pass the magnaflux tests.
Other parts on the shelf awaiting a good block are: D2TE-A heads with all new valves, springs, guides and seals; Edelbrock 390 Streetmaster intake; Holley 670 CFM Avenger carb and a set of Doug's full length coated stainless steel headers.
Rome wasn't built in a day, but I sure would like to get all these parts together soon. I'm sure some young guy will look under the hood and say, "Ugh, it's just another old FE boat anchor"!!
Dan
Regarding the street master: have you ran one before? At 445 cubes I suspect it will play a lot nicer than my experience on a 390. It was a total turd until at least 2000 but probably more honestly 2200 ish. I found a performer on the cheap and it is light years better...albeit probably too small for that 445 cubes!
The 3rd block is now disassembled and ready for the machine shop tomorrow morning. I was surprised to find that the engine had a rebuild before the truck went to the Junk Yard. The frame had rusted out and that was the last straw for the company owning the truck. Engine has .030 pistons, so it's been bored 30 over. The block is super clean inside, even after sitting for about 5 years. Underside of the pistons were clean as a whistle and bearing clean as could be, with no scratches. Good oil in the pan and even nice dark green antifreeze in the cooling system.
Too bad I'm only using the block, as my build has a new 4.125 Scat crank, forged Mahle .030 pistons.
The 3rd block is now disassembled and ready for the machine shop tomorrow morning. I was surprised to find that the engine had a rebuild before the truck went to the Junk Yard. The frame had rusted out and that was the last straw for the company owning the truck. Engine has .030 pistons, so it's been bored 30 over. The block is super clean inside, even after sitting for about 5 years. Underside of the pistons were clean as a whistle and bearing clean as could be, with no scratches. Good oil in the pan and even nice dark green antifreeze in the cooling system.
Too bad I'm only using the block, as my build has a new 4.125 Scat crank, forged Mahle .030 pistons.
More info after we have the shops findings!
Dan
Is it a 360 or a 390 ? If a 390, you can sell the rotating assembly and recoup some of the cost of the stroker kit. You'll also need to check the fit of the stroker pistons to the bores, last thing you want is excessive piston to wall clearances. I did the math on that 4cc's and it worked out to about a half point difference in the ratio.
It was a 360 2T crank in a D3TE block. I'm going to pull the front end sheet metal off (needs body work anyway) and use my running 360 for the build. Stay tuned, we may get this rocket to the launch pad yet!