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Buying an F-150. What to watch for ?

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  #1  
Old 05-17-2019, 08:48 AM
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Buying an F-150. What to watch for ?

Greetings,

I’m just about to pull the trigger on a what appears to be a well cared for 2013 F-150 STX with 55k miles on it. 5.0L super cab.

I wish I had asked these questions before I bought my Explorer.

Anything I should be looking out for on this vehicle? Anything I can expect to encounter for chronic or well-known problems/issues ?

Thanks for any insight you be able to provide.


P/NH…

 
  #2  
Old 05-17-2019, 09:51 AM
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The 5.0 is a solid motor. Be sure to check out the rocker panels for potential rust. See if the fuse 27 relocation was ever completed (do a search if unfamiliar). Post pics.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:53 AM
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Leaking 3rd brake light.

Reflash recall.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 12:11 PM
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IMHO for any modern day vehicle..
1. Take it to a frame shop to have it inspected for damage and proper repair
2. Take it to a mechanic to not only scan for codes but to allow them to look "deep" into the code history which will tell what codes, when and how many times.
3. Bubbling paint in door folds, etc., at cab area where 3rd brake light is
4. Also careful inspection of trans....not commonplace but not unusual, drum & torque converter failure (a hint of shuddering very slight forward or reverse...could also be just cylinoid issue)

IMHO...….check very carefully for oil change maintenance....With the extended oil changes 5,000 up and the longer exposure to periodic oil filter bypass activation, this is another parallel to the hydraulic timing chain actuators failing at around 100k miles as compared to their design specs which say they should be good for 150K+ miles. Those who have experienced these specific failures, the majority report they are on extended oil drain frequencies- most of the Ford Master Techs I have spoken directly too regarding this, agree their gut instinct says there is a relationship between the two.....the truck is new enough where if the frequency is shortened all should be good, but, if they lagged consistently on the oil changes, just consider this for future timing change system replacement.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:50 PM
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I’ve replaced epas ($1,700) and water pump so far just went past 75k miles, hopefully it’ll go well past 100k with no more costly repairs... but I’m not convinced it will, great truck though powerful, nimble and easy on the eyes for sure mine turns heads everyday
 
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:19 AM
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If you are going to tow with it, look at the cargo capacity that's listed on the yellow sticker on the door jam. Some F150's are severely limited in this area, and are not much more than glorified grocery getters.
 
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:53 PM
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Thanks to all for the great info. I apologize in advance for the long post, but I want to give as much detail as possible. To recap: 2013 F-150 5.0l super cab, STX 6 1/2 foot bed, 55k miles. 4x2.

I am not concerned about tow capacity (I don't have easy access to the truck door sticker. It's 60 miles away) But by looking at the towing guides this vehicle is rated at 9500 lbs. I am towing a little more than half that fully loaded.

Being a fairly rare vehicle up here in the northeast (an 8 cyl 4x2). I had to make a pretty quick decision. I put a deposit on the truck. I am picking it up next week. It comes with a 3 day money back warranty, and a 3000 mile, 3 month 100% P&L warranty.

Carfax and Experian show nothing alarming.

Here are my impressions of the truck from two 10 mile test drives.
It drives great. Everything works. Shifting is normal. Braking is normal. I have given it a very good viewing from underneath and it looks great. No rust, no leaks, not wet spots. I don't like the manual seats but they're not a show stopper. No real drive-ability complaints except for a vibration at about 55-65 mph detailed below.

I've given it a pretty good scan and found 5 errors. Otherwise all equipped systems passed. All 5 of these errors are related to communication with the BCM. See attached. The sales guy said the service guy told him that because they had to "reset the system" these errors would occur, but go away with drive cycles/time. Important to note I/M was ready during the scan. I am suspect, but I am NOT a Ford tech either.


There is a not so subtle vibration at 55-65 MPH. It's not a show stopper, but I KNOW it would grate on me every time I drove the truck. Ordinarily I would think it's a tire balance issue but according to the work order from the dealer they balanced and rotated the tires and aligned it upon intake. They also re-balanced upon offering it for sale. I also ran my hands around the tires to feel for anomalies and I couldn't find anything. Drive shaft maybe ?(see below). Resonant vibration from shocks?

There is no mention of the fuse 27 relocation. I have asked for it to be done and will check before delivery.

Here is what I have been able to determine from research and what info I could get from a work order from the dealer.

Work done 4/22/19. Selling dealer:
1. 6R80 PCM reprogram for sudden downshift using IDS. 19S07B. I also received an OASIS report that shows "Outstanding Field Service Actions -- 19N01 Transmission molded leadframe extended coverage"

2. Replace water pump. Bearing noise.

3. The work order also details "Carrier noise and Vibration. Replaced 2 piece driveshaft (used) and carrier bearing for vibration. Road tested, vibration is gone"
There are several more entries on the w/o but they are insignificant.

My thoughts/ questions.

1. After a lot of research on this issue the leadframe is my major concern. My build date is May 20 2013.
A. I am going to be towing a 5300# trailer. If this transmission locks up at highway speed, I may not have a second chance of getting it repaired due to accident/injury. How much more damage would be done to the drive train as a result of this event? In reality, do I really need to be concerned about this? Should I (try to) insist they replace the leadframe before delivery? I could not find ANYTHING mentioning what the "extended warranty" is.

B. Could this lockup have already happened and this is why the driveshaft had to be replaced?

C. Many folks in the forums that have had this issue have reported that their reprogramming hasn't worked. That only a leadframe replacement has solved the issue. Keeping in mind that from what I could find, the firmware for the 2013 models was just very recently released (March or April 2019). Could these folks with an early reprogram that didn't work have received the wrong firmware?

D. My understanding is that the issue is caused by an intermittent issue with the OSS sensor. I was hoping I would find some details on the firmware and HOW they have reprogrammed the PCM to ignore a false "0" input from the OSS sensor. Anyone?

2. Coolant is the "gold" type, but looks pretty dark. Even my trade (08 Explorer LTD 4.6 with 140k) has cleaner looking coolant. Yeah, I could do a flush myself I suppose.

I don't want to nickle and dime the dealer, but hell, I want a dependable. reliable vehicle I can count on. EspecialIy for the $$ they're asking. I want the major issues resolved to give me some reassurance.

Any thoughts, suggestions or comments?

Thank you in advance for humoring me through this process. . :-)
 
  #8  
Old 05-19-2019, 08:59 AM
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I would be more concerned with the rear axle work and the present vibration than the lead frame. What do you plan to address that ? I doubt you will "live with it".

Antifreeze should be ORANGE, not GOLD....... they don't mix.

lead frame is a very minor problem when you look at how many have failed... Warranty is 150K or 10 years.
 
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:46 AM
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Hi Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I guess upon reading the w/o I misinterpreted the "carrier bearing" for the driveshaft support bearing. Very different. Thanks for pointing that out. If it's been replaced, what other concerns do/should I have? Or were you just referring to the vibration ?

It's very difficult to describe the vibration. It's not a "buzzing" or loud type of vibration (I can't even hear it), I just feel it slightly. but more like a soft, very shallow, "gentle shudder". I suspect most people wouldn't even notice it, For example, occasionally, I'll have my wrist hanging over the steering wheel while driving and I can see my hand bouncing slightly up and down rhythmically even while coasting in neutral (like a tire balance/bump). It's not very pronounced, and it doesn't appear to get worse or faster with speed. But like I said it's pretty hard to tell. I just KNOW it's there.

Re coolant. Yes, again, I was mistaken. My 08 explorer uses the gold. I simply assumed where it wasn't green or orange, that it was dirty gold. Either way, from what little of it I could see (it was a bit low in the reservoir, the truck is high, and I am short), it didn't look very orange. It looked sort of brownish, but I'd have to get a better look at it to be sure. I would've expected fresh, clean coolant since they did the water pump. (They may have clamped off the hoses and lost/replaced only a little from the block). .

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

P.../NH
 
  #10  
Old 05-21-2019, 12:50 PM
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If the minor vibration does not bother you, then OK.... If it does bother you and cant be found, it will drive you crazy.. That was my point. If they replaced the carrier bearing, that might be what they thought was vibrating... GOOD that it was not in the rear end.

The lead frame in the transmission is a POTENTIAL problem, but does not seem to be widespread at this time.. That's why I said I would not "worry" about it. Warranty will cover it until 2023 .
 
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Old 05-21-2019, 01:05 PM
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Thanks Steve,

If they replaced the carrier bearing, that might be what they thought was vibrating... GOOD that it was not in the rear end.
Oh, so I guess I WAS correct in that the carrier bearing IS (what I called) the drive shaft center support bearing. Yes, That's a good thing....

I guess this is kind of my thinking. The work order says "...replaced the drive shaft and carrier bearing for vibration. Road tested and now vibration is gone...". I wonder if their idea of "gone" is just "better" than it was. Or maybe it was REAL bad so now, whatever improvement they made, they feel it's gone. I doubt they balanced the used drive shaft. I'll find out tomorrow when I pick the truck up. I'll be able to give it a much better evaluation too.

Hopefully, before I "sign on the dotted line", I'll be able to look at the truck with the tech(s) that worked on it and maybe get some info "straight from the horses mouth" about my concerns...

Thanks.

P.../NH
 
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Old 05-22-2019, 12:01 AM
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Is the 5300# trailer, the brochure "dry weight", the actual dry weight, or the GVWR of the trailer? Many people tend to use the "dry weight" when they are talking about the weight of the trailer they will tow.

For example, my Jay Flight 23RB's brochure "dry weight" is 4560#. The actual "dry weight" from the factory is 4758#. The actual Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 6500#.

Originally Posted by pjw73nh

A. I am going to be towing a 5300# trailer.
 
  #13  
Old 05-22-2019, 07:37 AM
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Hi Atlee,

Thanks for the reply. This is a VERY good point that MANY RV-ers/tow-ers aren't aware of. "But the salesman told me it would pull XXYY lbs". Or they use the "sticker" on the RV.

Every few years I take my rig to the local truck stop and weigh it. The 5300 (5380#) is the actual as driven/packed weight just before a trip. As equipped, full propane, full water, all supplies, clothing, food etc.

I don't know how it is now, but 20 years or so ago, as a general rule among the RV community, the general thinking was to not pull anything over 80% of the vehicle's tow rating. Whether the RV and car manufacturers have altered that or not, I don't know.

Paul.../NH
 
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