87 BII RABS problem
When I start, the ABS light comes on and then goes out (as normal) IF I keep my foot on the brake... As soon as I lift my foot off the light comes on. If I start no brakes applied the light comes on for five seconds then off for two then on steady.
This started shortly after an unreputable garage replaced the rear wheel cylinders and then bled brakes. I’ve bled the rear proportioning valve only (not wheel cylinders) as its valve showed no signs of being bled after they replaced the rear wheel cylinders. This didn’t help.
I've replaced the rear sensor in the axle. This didn’t help
With engine running & only the yellow ABS light on (red brake warning light is off) I’ve grounded the (BK/OR) pigtail at the computer module for one second to read the flashes on the ABS light. I DO NOT get the DTS codes from the RABS module. (neither could a different garage) SO I’ve replaced the RABS module. I still get NO codes whatsoever not even the # 16 for operational.
I’ve proven the connector good at the Master cylinder and when this connector is jumpered together I got both lights (brake an RABS). Stepping on the parking brake brings the Brake light on. Master cylinder is full, too!
I have tried clearing the codes by disconnecting the power to it. But I still get no codes.
If I hold the brake pedal so the RABS light is out when I switch to run then ground the connector the light comes on steady. As soon as I "unground" the connector the light immediately goes out and I STILL get no flash codes....
Someone advised per the manual "Caution when the yellow anti lock warning lamp glows, this indicates that the anti lock system requires service. Do not shut the vehicle off. In certain conditions, shutting the vehicle off loses the ability to read the flashout code without reproducing the service condition code. To obtain the flashout code: if the vehicle has been shutoff & the code lost the vehicle must be started up and/or driven to reproduce the condition."
So I’ve driven around to insure the codes are “set” but still get no DTS codes…
I’ve verified voltages at the RABS controller and they are correct…
The rear proportioning valve makes a "click" sound when the light goes off after the five seconds. Then the RABS light comes back on... IS this NORMAL?
I've checked the connections at the Rear sensor and the two connectors by the proportioning valve.
I’m assuming the proportioning valve has a set of contacts and a solenoid or shuttle valve… Is it possible the contacts are bad and that’s my dilemma…
Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this friggin thing?
I tried to unplug the RABS controller and found the lockup on the torque convertor won't engage so that's out...
My only other option is to unplug the stupid light.
A very perplexed Dave
Your message said I have mail... the only mail is an old one you sent that I hadn't deleted. Was there another one that I can't retreive?
I also received a notification that I can't use EMail yet although you and I have corresponded on Email...???
Dave



