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engine smoking after swap

 
  #1  
Old 05-15-2019, 10:58 AM
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engine smoking after swap

I bought a 2001 7.3PS 4WD and pulled the engine out of it. It ran and drove great before I pulled the engine. I put that engine in a 1999 F250 7.3PSD 2WD. Now the engine starts and idles great but it billows white smoke when I rev the engine and it does not seem to be developing any boost. I pressure checked the inlet side of the turbo and it holds around 20 psi. I cleared all the codes and then ran it and checked again. Here is what I got.
P0603,P0720.
RPM=2000 EBP=28.1 MAP=-.7 HPOP=870 IPR=15.5 EOT=127.8
Am I right that the MAP should be much higher than this? What would make it not build boost if there are no leaks on the intake side? It did not smoke like this before the engine swap.
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:41 PM
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Map @ .7 is way to low. Check your line or use the one out of the other truck if you have it. Without that working it won't build boost or fuel right.
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35 View Post
Map @ .7 is way to low. Check your line or use the one out of the other truck if you have it. Without that working it won't build boost or fuel right.
I will check that when I get home tonight. The MAP sensor is one of the things we did not use from the other truck. How would I test to see if the MAP sensor itself is bad?
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:57 PM
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Compare baro, MAP, and exhaust back pressure with engine off. They should all be within 1/2 psi of each other. Start engine and baro will not change, but others will change depending on load. If MAP does not change it's either dead of the hose fell off. If EBP doesn't change the tube and/or sensor may be clogged with soot. The bracket holding the EBP sensor is flimsy. Put a wrench underneath the bracket to hold the sensor before you wrench the top or you'll bend the bracket. Ask me how I know....

Here's a good thread on the MAP/EBP subject.
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350 View Post
Compare baro, MAP, and exhaust back pressure with engine off. They should all be within 1/2 psi of each other. Start engine and baro will not change, but others will change depending on load. If MAP does not change it's either dead of the hose fell off. If EBP doesn't change the tube and/or sensor may be clogged with soot. The bracket holding the EBP sensor is flimsy. Put a wrench underneath the bracket to hold the sensor before you wrench the top or you'll bend the bracket. Ask me how I know....

Here's a good thread on the MAP/EBP subject.
BARO, MAP, and EBP are all with 1/2 psi of each other with engine off. When I start the engine both MAP and EBP change. EBP goes up considerably and MAP goes to -.7 and fluctuates.

If I disconnect EBP sensor I get high EBP reading (45) and it stays constant. Engine still smokes.
If I disconnect MAP sensor then I get MAP readings that fluctuate with engine speed but go up to about 4 at higher RPM. Engine still smokes.

I replaced the MAP line going to sensor from intake plenum and nothing changed.
I swapped MAP sensor with one on my 2000 7.3PSD that I drive daily and nothing changes.

When I first swapped the MAP sensors it did not smoke for about 2 minutes and then started smoking again.
I did the 5V test and the MAP and it is good. I removed, cleaned and tested all fuses just for good measure. All tested good both under hood and inside.
 
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:25 AM
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Do you have a manual gauge to read boost with? Map could be reading an actual no boost situation. Wondering if maybe during the swap a rag was in a tube and clogged your IC?
 
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Green View Post
Do you have a manual gauge to read boost with? Map could be reading an actual no boost situation. Wondering if maybe during the swap a rag was in a tube and clogged your IC?
I do have a manual gauge connected to the MAP sensor line with a tee and it has been showing the same as the MAP reading in my software. I did not notice what it did when I unplugged the MAP sensor. I will check that tonight. If you are correct and something is clogging the IC then I would suspect that gauge will not change since it is connected after the IC. I will check for a clog tonight. Thanks for all the suggestions. I am sure we will get to the root of the problem with all the help on this forum.
 
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Green View Post
Do you have a manual gauge to read boost with? Map could be reading an actual no boost situation. Wondering if maybe during the swap a rag was in a tube and clogged your IC?
My thoughts exactly.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:57 AM
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Well I took the intake system apart and cleaned it all. Inspected it and there were no clogs in the IC or any of the pipes. When I pressure test the system with the compressor my manual gauge shows and holds 15psi. The truck still smokes badly. I am about out of ideas. When I first start it there is no smoke but after about 2 minutes of running it starts smoking and gets really bad smoke. My MAP reading is still showing -.7 and fluctuates unless I unplug the MAP sensor and then it shows +2 and fluctuates with speed of the engine. The manual pressure gauge show about the same as the MAP reading with it plugged in. Any more ideas?
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:14 AM
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Have you verified the MAP sensor line (rubber line from manifold to sensor) does not have an obstruction or fluid in it? There was a fella on here a while back that got oil in his line somehow and it would cause the MAP to read the wrong pressure at intermittent times.

I know your readings are constant, but just something cheap and easy to check as we help you get this resolved.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous View Post
Have you verified the MAP sensor line (rubber line from manifold to sensor) does not have an obstruction or fluid in it? There was a fella on here a while back that got oil in his line somehow and it would cause the MAP to read the wrong pressure at intermittent times.

I know your readings are constant, but just something cheap and easy to check as we help you get this resolved.
Yes I just replaced it with new line to make sure nothing was going on there. Thanks for the feedback though.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:36 AM
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2 minutes is close to the glow plug time out, but it should be warm enough weather that won't matter.

How's your uppipes? Baby's butt to turbo connection? Probably not enough miles to have soot yet, try wrapping your connections with aluminium foil, drive aggressive/power brake, remove the foil and look for soot on foil.

Post fuel filter pressure staying steady? Fuel bowl have any water collected?

Edit: you mentioned the EBP goes up considerably, EBPV closing and staying shut?
 
  #13  
Old 05-17-2019, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Green View Post
2 minutes is close to the glow plug time out, but it should be warm enough weather that won't matter.

How's your uppipes? Baby's butt to turbo connection? Probably not enough miles to have soot yet, try wrapping your connections with aluminium foil, drive aggressive/power brake, remove the foil and look for soot on foil.

Post fuel filter pressure staying steady? Fuel bowl have any water collected?

Edit: you mentioned the EBP goes up considerably, EBPV closing and staying shut?
Yeah it was almost 90 degrees here yesterday. Up pipes look good. I inspected all that when I had the engine out. I will try wrapping them with aluminum.
Fuel pressure is steady I believe but I will verify again. There is no water in the fuel bowl. I have drained it twice just to verify.
It sounds like you are thinking the turbo may not be spinning fast enough because of leaks or other issues. That sound like a possibility I have not explored yet. I will check all that. Would the EBPV stuck open cause it to not develop boost enough to smoke like this? But that would cause the EBP to not build wouldn't it.
I thought originally it may be water in the fuel so I drained the whole tank and put fresh fuel in it to start with.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:01 AM
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Did you check the turbo?
Does it spin free?
Is there playing the shaft? Does the wheel touch the housing?
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by HD Rider View Post
Did you check the turbo?
Does it spin free?
Is there playing the shaft? Does the wheel touch the housing?
I did not atke the turbo apart while I had it off because it was running fine before the engine swap. It looks like I may be doing that this weekend though. Thanks
 

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