Brake issues

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May 9, 2019 | 07:10 PM

Arsoncop

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Joined: Oct 2018

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From: Monroe NC

Brake issues

Did a complete brake system replace ( not the hoses) on my 73 F250 highboy, its a project and needed new brakes so I replaced everything. I adjusted the brakes or at least I thought I did and then bled the fluid. The front brakes will stop but the rear brakes have no brake. The truck is up on jack stands so I can turn the tires. Do you turn the adjustment screw up or down to widen the brakes ? I have turned them both ways and it doesn't seem to make a difference. When you pump the brake pedel I can see the adjuster moving though the little hole. I am going to be really ill if I have to take the drums off to fix the problem, hoping it is something simple. Thanks

May 10, 2019 | 08:09 AM

Randy Nix

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Joined: Mar 2017

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From: Denver, CO

I Did all my brake components over a year ago. Is your MC new?

Make sure to adjust the rear pads to touch the drums just enough to stop them from rotating by hand..
Then back them off just enough to free up the drum until it rotates easily. Even if the pads are barely touching the drums its ok.

The rear cylinders don't move a lot so the pads need to be as close to the drums as possible.

Good Luck.

May 10, 2019 | 09:04 AM

Tedster9

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Joined: Apr 2002

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From: Waterloo, Iowa

Yep, run the adjusters up all the way as far as they will go. Depress the brake pedal a few times to center the mechanism and take some of the slop out. The rear brake shoes need to be manually adjusted to achieve a "light drag" against the drums or the brake pedal will be low and mushy. If they "spin freely" you're doing it wrong.

May 10, 2019 | 09:15 AM

John89

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Joined: Jul 2017

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From: East Texas

Make sure you keep the drums on when you center them by pushing the brake pedal. Adjusting from the backing plate with the drums/wheels on takes a little technique. Sometimes you have to use a skinny screwdriver to push the locking tab away from the "star" adjuster and then rotate the "star" with the adjusting tool. (Funny looking pry bar type tool)

May 10, 2019 | 09:24 AM

Tedster9

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From: Waterloo, Iowa

The brake shoes can be tightened with a single tool (screwdriver or "spoon") they aren't supposed to ever loosen on their own though, to loosen up the shoes a second tool is needed to move the ratchet out of the way of the star wheel.

May 10, 2019 | 12:31 PM

Arsoncop

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From: Monroe NC

So I need to have the brake pushed in order to adjust through the backing plate ?

May 10, 2019 | 01:06 PM

John89

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Joined: Jul 2017

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From: East Texas

No. Pushing the pedal just centers everything up inside the drum. Once you get them close by hand, you can use the self-adjusting process. Run it backwards about 10-15 feet and apply the brakes. Do this a few times and it should help.

Sometimes if the hardware is old or has a lot of miles on it, the self adjusting process doesn't always work.

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May 10, 2019 | 02:10 PM

Tedster9

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Joined: Apr 2002

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From: Waterloo, Iowa

Quote:

Originally Posted by John89

Once you get them close by hand, you can use the self-adjusting process. Run it backwards about 10-15 feet and apply the brakes. Do this a few times and it should help

The problem there, is self-adjusters only take up very small amounts of wear, as brake lining is removed over time, and even then it's only one click. If the linings are too loose at the start, at install, the self-adjusters will never work. I would cinch them up till they drag a bit, and take a test drive around the block and then check them again. Brake shoes used to be sold oversized (to better fit drums that had been turned) and then shaved on the arc machine to get a good full contact patch. It's a little tougher to get drum brakes to work right in one shot today.