I know this question gets a lot of flack but does anyone make a proper set for wheel spacers for a 92 4x4 f150? I believe they need to accommodate our 87.1 mm bore and provide a new hub to near the load? I prefer to get 2 in but I would take 1.5. I understand wear and tear on ball joints but I would like my times to clear the suspension on my OEM rims. I found these ECCPP 5x5.5 to 5x5 Wheel Spacers Adapters 1.5" (38mm) 5x5.5 to 5x5 Wheel Adapter 87.1mm 4X Fit for Ford E150 Dodge Ram 1500 Ford E150 Econoline with 1/2" Studs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DVN9PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GrfXCbVN7QJX1 but they do not list the aluminum material or stud grade.

 

I would go with these guys, Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings for your car! | Motorsport Tech

Looks like you will need to send them a inquiry to get a quote on the ones you want, because I do not see the pre-1997 F150's listed.

You will have your choice of thickness, material and they have a hub flange on them.

 

What kind of wheels do you plan on using? If you aren't using the factory hub centric wheels then you don't need hub centric spacers. Also you don't want your factory wheel studs to stick out past the wheel mounting surface on the spacer, take a wheel off and measure how long your studs are. You will have to get wheel spacers thicker than your studs are long or trim some off of the studs so the wheel will sit flush on the spacer.

 

One thing to keep in mind is the hub lock out. If you have a spacer and wheels, you need to still be able to access the lockout.

The Duallys all have spacers. I have no issues with mine. What wheels are you wanting to run?

 

I have the factory bullet holes which I would like to retain. This is for my 92 f150. I tried 1/4 in spacers before but the OEM studs did not engage the factory lug nuts enough. The factory lugs nuts are considered lug centric I believe but still our hubs to bare part of the load. I will try calling bora, I had found them before. Also when I tried smaller spacers, it seemed no one make longer wheel studs. I even went through the shelves at orielly to see if there were 1/2-20s for another make/model that were longer.

Its been 26 years plus the gems before and we still don’t have good answers for spacers? I keep circling back to them because I get dissatisfied as I look for wider rims that look as close to the OEM bullet holes.
Then there is more cost like having my existing tires put on the new rims, balancing, etc when a spacer would probably give me the half inch I need on the front to clear the radius arms.

 

I'd say it's not really all that critical. I ran alum 2" lug centric spacers on the back of my 350 with 15" wide 38" tires for about 10k miles. Later switched to 2" billet steel hub centric spacers and didn't see/feel any difference, except piece of mind when towing or hauling heavy.

 

Longer wheel studs should not be an issue at all. You just need to match the thread size and then the knurled size and pick your length.

You need 0.625 Knurl
Stock studs are 2" UHL (underhead length)

Info was found here at Dorman:
Dorman Wheel stud specs 1992 F150 4x4


You just need to find a stud with more UHL. How much longer of a stud do you want?

 

When I called Bora on Monday, they were still defaulting to a voicemail message. Quoting custom spacers off their site looked like $55 dollars each off hand. However, think about the front hubs, I do not think it would be possible to make a spacer with its own male hub if the OD is the same as the OD of the locking hubs. It is definitely doable for the rear though.

Of those of you helping me, have any of you been using spacers with our OEM rims for a length of time? I’d like to see pictures of any wear on the spacers studs, wear on the OD of the 4x4 hubs, or hear about any issues.

Edgethis,

Not to ignore you, when I still had the 1/4" spacers in hand, I was looking for any that were 1/2"-20, a 1/4" longer than the OE with the same base or knurl. I might have posted or just searched then but it seems like I wasn’t the only who had looked or asked and there was not a company that just make extended studs for our hubs outright. I remember when I fit up the spacer with my aluminum bullet holes, I was not satisfied with the remaining thread engagement. The shop I bought them from had no problem refunding my money (with receipt about 6 months later*) when I showed them in their parking lot. *6 months between when I bought them and when I went to install them. Since then I have also seen some comments/concerns about making sure that type of spacer stays centered to the hub to reduce vibrations.

 

I have 2" hub centric spacers on mine with locking hubs and they fit fine.

 

Talked to Bora. 250 for a 1.5” set of 4. The rear spacers would have a male hub for the wheel but the front would not. As I am constantly changing my truck around I doubt I will put 10K on the cheaper 87.1mm bore spacers I ordered last night. If I honestly didn’t dream about going to tires larger than 35” after re-gearing, I would spring for the Bora set to keep the OEM rims. Thanks for the input. I would like a have a few thousand miles on the spacers I bought before updating this with a review. I plan on torquing to either their specifications or the OEM with Loctite, re-torquing after 24hours, then again after 50 miles.

Sorry if it seems like I ask a lot, talk a lot, then do my own thing in the end if anything. Thanks for the input.

 

I'll make a comment; if you're going to use Loctite, do not retorque or you will lose the locking effect of the Loctite. Think of it as an adhesive, which it is - the more you move it around during and after cure, the less (or no) stick you have.

Torque it once, then leave it alone is proper etiquette for Loctite. Not so for wheel studs. They should always be checked several times after they have been torqued for the first time.

 

I don't follow. For fully cured red loctite, if the fastener were to rotate all while verifying torque or during my first 50 miles, should form a fine powder which should actually engage and hold the threads even tighter, though not desired or required. That is why heat is very important on red loctited fasteners during removal. I know I am performing a little overkill checking/verifying it twice and my own naivety may have some negative consequences to learn from. I looked for a public reference describing this, as I cannot quote or post material from my career, but I am still learning everyday myself. I am adding another surface and set of fasteners in the mounting of the wheel to hub and increased the distance to the load. I expect that even with the most ideal / perfect assembly, settling to occur between the dissimilar and new materials added into the assembly. Maybe I should think more of a break-a-way verification rather than re-torquing. Note: To be clear I believe we both understand I am only applying loctite to the nuts retaining the spacer to the hub and not the lugnuts (sake of clarity) retaining the wheel to the spacer. I would like to treat the hub to spacer joint as if it were a solid fixture after assembly, only to be removed with heat for service of brakes and axle components. Adding difficult to visual inspections of my rear drums which I have done once since own the truck for maybe about 2 years now.

 

The only issue I could see, is the loctite could give you a false torque reading if you will be tightening to a specific torque value.

It will tend to set the proper torque on the first go around, but could put enough tension in the threads to give you a false tension and ultimately, not allow you to reach full torque on your subsequent re-torquing sequences.

You might be better served with a visual seal like Torque Seal type of compound.

I have not researched it much, but you may be able to use a Torque Seal compound at the joining surface of the hub/drum/rotor and the spacer. If so, that would give you a pretty good indication that something is shifting.

I have no dog in this hunt, just spit balling

 

Well I know no one wins an online argument but I would like to hear others thoughts just for own expanded education. No really too worried about it, as long as they are even. My Pittsburgh torque wrench is a bit older now, isn't stored in ideal conditions, and I think I once forgot to set it back to zero (for about a year), I actually set it to 10 to store. So its a bit out of spec. But it is better than nothing, and hopefully keeps things even enough.

 

Definitely no argument here, trying to learn as well.

I spoke a bit about my opinion, which is not an end all, be all... because I really don't know.
Just thoughts from my feeble little mind

Once you do it, please keep up with the thread and let us know your findings.