In looking at the photos I don't like the looks of the driver side positive tap
that supplies the power to the fuse box. Looks a bit dirty.

 

Too many toys, yes we connect the negative. What I was calling the excite connectors is actually the regulator. Looking at yours the yellow wire is the one that has constant 14v the green wire has 0 ( or vise versa) can’t remember exactly which way my plug was sitting compared to yours.

Yes will I’ll clean up good tomorrow

 

The Rosetta stone is working.

With the locking tab down, my yellow wire on the left ( stock it's an orange/light blue stripe wire ) is the sense wire, battery voltage always. In Ford terminology the A circuit.

On the right side of my connector, the green with a red stripe ( stock wire should be a light green/red stripe wire too ), the I circuit or control circuit. Voltage should be present with key-on only.

Question - When you do a key-on or wait to start, does the battery light show in the gauge cluster? If not, go right to changing the fuse below.

Here is the diagram for a 2003 truck. 2006 may be the same, F2.45. I just can't go through all of Seans pdfs. Central Junction Box is under the steering wheel




So if you are not getting a voltage with key on, first check in the fuse panel that the fuse is OK. Not just visually, put your meter on it and check for continuity, or just replace it without checking.

With key-on again, check the alternator connector for voltage. If none, move the wire around to check if its broken and sometimes makes contact. If no hint of voltage, go back and recheck the fuse to make sure it hasn't blown. If it's not blown then you have an unusual broken wire, but more likely with a '06 a gauge cluster issue. And the cheapest way to deal with that is a company that is on here, Circuit Board Medics.

https://circuitboardmedics.com

If after replacing the fuse there is 12v with key-on, the connector may be an issue mating to the alternator and you need to replace it. And if the connector is not the issue, alternator.

But you said no voltage at the connector so the alternator not working should be upstream towards the cluster and fuse.



Draining the batteries on crank over still had issues somewhere. I think with this truck, and with two different manufacture batteries in it, it's impressive to get the batteries capacity tested. You need to know the condition they are in as if one is poor it will confuse other possibilities and end up replacing things not need to be replaced.


If you get to the point of chasing grounds, I've got a video for that.

 

Here is C102a

 

You guys are awesome thanks. Maybe do some testing today Hutton a little bit today getting old

 

Off my feet right now knee messed up. Thanks for the info. What Is the second wire (pulse) supposed to have with key on

 

So cleaned all connections. Cleaned all grounds. Have 13v at main wire on alternator. Pulled plug on back of alternator 13v from one wire key off. 11v out of other wire key on. Better light comes on when key is turned on. All fuses ore good.

Even tho I had alternator tested twice and was said to be good is it possible it Is still bad? Everything els checks out

 

Yes they can be bad even if they test out good.
The new computerized testers don't put them under the stress
that they are under when installed on the engine in service.

 

Goose,

As Sean said, parts store testing can give a false indication. We’ve had a few people get good readouts when they are not. Without having a spare alternator to swap and check, it can be hard.

Another check you can do is put the multimeter on AC voltage then one lead on the positive and the other on the negative terminal or alternator case while the engine is running. The voltage should not be over 0.5 volts, preferably under 0.3 volts. That would tell the condition of the diodes. Bad diodes would turn the dash light on.

Other then that, at this point of internet troubleshooting it’s either going to a shop or flipping in a new alternator.

 

My ideal alternator/generator test stand would have an environmental control chamber.
Then bring the temp up to about 115ºF Hold for 5 minutes. Then run under heavy load
for 2 1/2 minutes and then at low load 2 1/2 minutes while watching the output and AC ripple.
I might even add in a varying load for a few more minutes.

If you get a failure at any point during that test then the alternator is a dud.

Jack can we say Over Kill???

The thing with the parts store testers is they don't run the test with the alternator at
operating temp. That is one of the reasons that they say so many bad alternator are good.

 

I’ll try the diodes never heard of that. I can’t thank you guys enough.

i am use to having wire diagrams and testing procedures with required outputs.

 

Damn, then I could have given you this. The diagrams you already have above.

 

It is never too late I should have asked sooner

 

Alternator was bad charging at 13 v