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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Hard cranking

Early 99 F350 7.3 PSD. The truck has started to become hard to crank over; so much that I didn't think I was going to get to 7-11 for my coffee this morning (me without coffee is not something you want to witness. Trust me.) The batteries are both fairly new, 875 CCA Bosch's and both test as good. Voltage on each battery is about 12.7 with each battery isolated, truck not running. Cranking voltage drops to about 10.0 volts. Running voltage is right around 14.2.

The right positive battery terminal clamp (the one that has both cables in it) was toast, and I though for sure it would be the problem. Well, I replaced it with a new solder-on terminal clamp today, and it made no difference whatsoever.

Would I be wrong to start thinking it's going to end up being the starter?

On Edit: And it's not even really cold here yet. Lower 50's at night.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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Check the rest of the cables and connections including the grounds. Look at the connections on the starter also. If those are good, then your starter is on it's way out. With the voltage dropping to 10 Volts I'm surprised that the trucks starts. The IDM needs 10.5 volts to fire. You must be teetering on the edge.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Like Jim said, I am surprised you got is started. Sounds like your looking in the right places. A bad connection will hurt you, Make sure you look the cable you repaired over very good. Don't know a good way to tell you to check the starter without removing it, maybe someone here will jump in. Did you load test your batteries or just check stand by voltage?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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You should also remember new does not always mean good. As Jim mentioned, the IDM needs to see a min. of 10.5 volts to fire the injectors. You might consider getting the batteries load tested. Maybe a warranty swap is in order. I'd also check your alternator output while running to make sure you're seeing 14+ volts.

Jim. Would loose connections cause a 10v reading on good batteries if you held the test leads to the battery posts? In my mind the battery voltage would still read good, it just wouldn't be flowing through the cables.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
You should also remember new does not always mean good. As Jim mentioned, the IDM needs to see a min. of 10.5 volts to fire the injectors. You might consider getting the batteries load tested. Maybe a warranty swap is in order. I'd also check your alternator output while running to make sure you're seeing 14+ volts.

Jim. Would loose connections cause a 10v reading on good batteries if you held the test leads to the battery posts? In my mind the battery voltage would still read good, it just wouldn't be flowing through the cables.
Yes it could. A dirty or corroded connection will do the same thing. The best way to check for voltage drop is to use dmm on the battery itself while some one else cranks it over.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
Yes it could. A dirty or corroded connection will do the same thing. The best way to check for voltage drop is to use dmm on the battery itself while some one else cranks it over.
The terminals are all in good shape; I took a terminal brush to them when I reinstalled them. The batteries load tested at 100% of rated capacity.

Unfortunately, I'm thinking starter at this point. At least it's got a lifetime warranty on it. I just hate doing that job. . .
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
Yes it could. A dirty or corroded connection will do the same thing. The best way to check for voltage drop is to use dmm on the battery itself while some one else cranks it over.
That's exactly what I did.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
The terminals are all in good shape; I took a terminal brush to them when I reinstalled them. The batteries load tested at 100% of rated capacity.

Unfortunately, I'm thinking starter at this point. At least it's got a lifetime warranty on it. I just hate doing that job. . .
It does point to the starter!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by zx250
Like Jim said, I am surprised you got is started. Sounds like your looking in the right places. A bad connection will hurt you, Make sure you look the cable you repaired over very good. Don't know a good way to tell you to check the starter without removing it, maybe someone here will jump in. Did you load test your batteries or just check stand by voltage?
It almost didn't start. It sputtered a few times while cranking this morning. I was surprised it finally caught. At least I got my coffee!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
It does point to the starter!
That's what I'm leaning towards. The stupid thing is only about a year and a half old. Arghh.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
That's what I'm leaning towards. The stupid thing is only about a year and a half old. Arghh.
Those "lifetime" parts only seem to be good for about a year in my experience, so you've done better than most. Alternators going out aren't too bad since they're so easy to change. My starter had it's first hiccup this week, so I ordered a new one from DB Electrical since starters are a little more difficult to change.

If you know of a quality local rebuild shop, I'd let them fix the starter before trading in the starter until next year.
 
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