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Yeah I could use the early 99 one but the extra clearance of the late 99 and up one would be good for billet intake plenums. Not sure how much higher it actually is and what the limits of the Riffraff bellows are but it would be nice if I could just make that work.
He is a standup guy. Hooked up me up with a case of Redline recently.
Hands down, the T4 based system is better in the end with far more turbocharger options. No question about it.
I am lazy, not wanting to reinvent the wheel. That is why I am going to stick with TP38 based stuff, even if it is imperfect. Plus I like different than the norm setups.
Well the first time I pulled the boots off the openings were crushed. I put the reinforcement rings in but they still leave a little to be desired.
Swap on 3" plenums. Take a SD y part and hack off the outlet. Cut the original outlet off and put a 45° pipe on aimed at driver's side. An intercooler joins the 2. That's the best option in my head.
I was going trough all the stuff you are talking about. Very frustrating. Rosewoods stage 1’s stopped oil consumption. With everything else I did including a rebuilt transmission and some electrical issues cleaned up, I can say my truck performs above my expectations. Ya I have to manage egts. I love to drive it. FUN FUN. You can get more out of them. It just takes more money. I’m a man on a budget and feel like I can get many more years of service from it. The money and maintenance I think is far less than a new truck. I’m saving money in my eyes and on paper= more stuff in the future at the right time.
I was going trough all the stuff you are talking about. Very frustrating. Rosewoods stage 1’s stopped oil consumption. With everything else I did including a rebuilt transmission and some electrical issues cleaned up, I can say my truck performs above my expectations. Ya I have to manage egts. I love to drive it. FUN FUN. You can get more out of them. It just takes more money. I’m a man on a budget and feel like I can get many more years of service from it. The money and maintenance I think is far less than a new truck. I’m saving money in my eyes and on paper= more stuff in the future at the right time.
That’s good to hear. I’m definitely in too deep with this thing to throw in the towel now. I’ve started ordering parts again. Just have to get everything together for when I get a weekend off.
I’ve now replaced the turbo bearing carrier, put another fresh set of bushings in, new rear main while installing dual disk, went to e-fuel, and upgraded injectors without seeing any improvements in the oil loss. One major thing to note, when I had the oil cooler off I found two pieces of gravel that were just large enough that they wouldn’t fit through the passages. I found one more with the oil pan off in the pickup screen. Not sure what happened to it in it’s past life that would’ve introduced rocks into the oil but that’s kinda just how my luck goes. I’ll probably do another compression test to confirm after running it for a while but I’m sure it’s time to start looking into a full rebuild.
With those compression #'s I wouldn't worry about piston rings but I would worry about valve guides/seals, if it was trully a low mileage engine that only means the engine wasn't run to often so either the seal are bad or the valve guides themselves wore out with all those dry starts.
That’s a tough find. Sorry to hear that. Do you see anything bad in the oil when you change it?
Well it pretty much has always changed it’s own oil. I do have a magnet on the drain bolt and haven’t seen anything unusual on that any time I’ve had it out. I did save the last oil filter but haven’t got around to cutting it open yet.
With those compression #'s I wouldn't worry about piston rings but I would worry about valve guides/seals, if it was trully a low mileage engine that only means the engine wasn't run to often so either the seal are bad or the valve guides themselves wore out with all those dry starts.
I had that suggested to me by a coworker and it seemed to be a probable cause so I read up on it and the general consensus for these motors was that the seals were elevated from the majority of the oil so it wouldn’t likely be the cause. I do have a Melling Lpop though so maybe more oil does get up there? I’d be happy to try and change the seals but what do you do if the guides are bad?