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Oil Consumption

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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 11:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
might need SD uppies and driver manifold for it

Sounds like freakify mod? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...akify-mod.html
Yeah I could use the early 99 one but the extra clearance of the late 99 and up one would be good for billet intake plenums. Not sure how much higher it actually is and what the limits of the Riffraff bellows are but it would be nice if I could just make that work.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #32  
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What is the desire for the billet plenums? I make nearly 30psi with stock injectors, stock turbo, no IC, and a dying HPOP on stock 2" plenums.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 04:24 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
What is the desire for the billet plenums? I make nearly 30psi with stock injectors, stock turbo, no IC, and a dying HPOP on stock 2" plenums.
Well the first time I pulled the boots off the openings were crushed. I put the reinforcement rings in but they still leave a little to be desired.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 07:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
He is a standup guy. Hooked up me up with a case of Redline recently.



Hands down, the T4 based system is better in the end with far more turbocharger options. No question about it.

I am lazy, not wanting to reinvent the wheel. That is why I am going to stick with TP38 based stuff, even if it is imperfect. Plus I like different than the norm setups.
With stock stixs yea tp38 is great.

Any bigger...just a handicap is all.

#lowboostlyfe
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 08:00 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jake Allison
Well the first time I pulled the boots off the openings were crushed. I put the reinforcement rings in but they still leave a little to be desired.
Swap on 3" plenums. Take a SD y part and hack off the outlet. Cut the original outlet off and put a 45° pipe on aimed at driver's side. An intercooler joins the 2. That's the best option in my head.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 09:25 PM
  #36  
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I was going trough all the stuff you are talking about. Very frustrating. Rosewoods stage 1’s stopped oil consumption. With everything else I did including a rebuilt transmission and some electrical issues cleaned up, I can say my truck performs above my expectations. Ya I have to manage egts. I love to drive it. FUN FUN. You can get more out of them. It just takes more money. I’m a man on a budget and feel like I can get many more years of service from it. The money and maintenance I think is far less than a new truck. I’m saving money in my eyes and on paper= more stuff in the future at the right time.
 
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Old May 8, 2019 | 12:33 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Pigpen1
I was going trough all the stuff you are talking about. Very frustrating. Rosewoods stage 1’s stopped oil consumption. With everything else I did including a rebuilt transmission and some electrical issues cleaned up, I can say my truck performs above my expectations. Ya I have to manage egts. I love to drive it. FUN FUN. You can get more out of them. It just takes more money. I’m a man on a budget and feel like I can get many more years of service from it. The money and maintenance I think is far less than a new truck. I’m saving money in my eyes and on paper= more stuff in the future at the right time.
That’s good to hear. I’m definitely in too deep with this thing to throw in the towel now. I’ve started ordering parts again. Just have to get everything together for when I get a weekend off.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 05:10 PM
  #38  
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Update

I’ve now replaced the turbo bearing carrier, put another fresh set of bushings in, new rear main while installing dual disk, went to e-fuel, and upgraded injectors without seeing any improvements in the oil loss. One major thing to note, when I had the oil cooler off I found two pieces of gravel that were just large enough that they wouldn’t fit through the passages. I found one more with the oil pan off in the pickup screen. Not sure what happened to it in it’s past life that would’ve introduced rocks into the oil but that’s kinda just how my luck goes. I’ll probably do another compression test to confirm after running it for a while but I’m sure it’s time to start looking into a full rebuild.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 07:05 PM
  #39  
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That’s a tough find. Sorry to hear that. Do you see anything bad in the oil when you change it?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 09:16 PM
  #40  
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With those compression #'s I wouldn't worry about piston rings but I would worry about valve guides/seals, if it was trully a low mileage engine that only means the engine wasn't run to often so either the seal are bad or the valve guides themselves wore out with all those dry starts.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 10:11 PM
  #41  
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So Adam, are you saying that only running my old Mule 500-1000 miles a year where it sits all winter and summer is going to ruin the motor?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 10:24 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
So Adam, are you saying that only running my old Mule 500-1000 miles a year where it sits all winter and summer is going to ruin the motor?
I wouldn't generalize its just my opinion, but think about its the last place the oil hits in the valve terrain.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 10:48 PM
  #43  
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Did you do the oil cap upside-down blow-by test?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 11:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by PSU4ME
That’s a tough find. Sorry to hear that. Do you see anything bad in the oil when you change it?
Well it pretty much has always changed it’s own oil. I do have a magnet on the drain bolt and haven’t seen anything unusual on that any time I’ve had it out. I did save the last oil filter but haven’t got around to cutting it open yet.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 11:23 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
With those compression #'s I wouldn't worry about piston rings but I would worry about valve guides/seals, if it was trully a low mileage engine that only means the engine wasn't run to often so either the seal are bad or the valve guides themselves wore out with all those dry starts.
I had that suggested to me by a coworker and it seemed to be a probable cause so I read up on it and the general consensus for these motors was that the seals were elevated from the majority of the oil so it wouldn’t likely be the cause. I do have a Melling Lpop though so maybe more oil does get up there? I’d be happy to try and change the seals but what do you do if the guides are bad?
 
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