Oil Consumption
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Oil Consumption
I’ve been battling oil loss for the couple years that I’ve owned this truck now and still haven’t figured it out. I had the motor out at one point and fixed all of the typical external oil and fuel leaks that seemed worse than normal for only having 170,000 miles. Then I did injector cups and o rings and that improved it more but still seems to use about a gallon in 500 miles. So I rebuilt the turbo and that didn’t seem to help. I’ve done a compression test and my highest reading was 418lbs and lowest cylinder was 378lbs. Blow by seems normal and I put a catch can on the ccv temporarily to make sure it wasn’t pushing it out there for some reason. I only drive it once every few weeks or so in the summer and it’s usually parked for winter but I start it up periodically and it always runs good. Seems to be smoking at startup a little more now recently though. Is it possible for an injector to be sticking and letting it through internally or is it something more serious? Thanks
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Alliant from Riffraff.
I don’t think they’re black. Hard telling that way though cause I change it often and the entire time I’ve owned the truck, enough oil gets added in order to keep it topped off that it’s never turned black.
I don’t think they’re black. Hard telling that way though cause I change it often and the entire time I’ve owned the truck, enough oil gets added in order to keep it topped off that it’s never turned black.
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From: western SD
Still running the original injectors? When you changed out the O-rings, were the old copper washers in place on the injectors? Maybe some of the internal O-rings let go, letting oil injected with the fuel.
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As far as I know the injectors seem original or at least just stock replacement. Previous owner didn’t know. All the copper washers were in place and I put new ones on. I was hoping one of the orings would be torn when I went to do that job but they were all intact just brittle. I’m hoping that’s the case, with the internal orings, cause I would like to upgrade the injectors next, I’ve just never been able to find any solid info stating that could be the cause, and I don’t want to spend the money on them yet if it’s something more serious. I’ve already put thousands into it trying to chase down this issue (granted I made some good upgrades) and some serious hours to the point that I had to walk away from it for a bit so I want to make sure my next move fixes it. The thing that throws me off is it really doesn’t smoke too bad and it’s not like you can smell the oil in the exhaust plain as day but maybe a hint of it, but I guess if it was injecting it into the fuel and with still having decent compression it could burn it fairly clean.
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From: Bahstun
if you are smelling burnt engine oil, then the turbo seal has a leak, anywhere else will burn the oil off as fuel unless you have low compression on one cylinder
Compression test will rule it out
Compression test will rule it out
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The turbo was just rebuilt and it didn’t change. The lowest reading I had was 378 lbs
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From: Bahstun
if fuel isn't going into the oil, compression is good then that leaves the turbo might be leaking still.
Have you done a temp test to see if all are cylinders are running?
can use crayon to write on the heads near exh manifold to watch it melt at similar times or get an IR gun and watch it warm up.
Then can try swapping an injector around if you find a cold one.
Have you done a temp test to see if all are cylinders are running?
can use crayon to write on the heads near exh manifold to watch it melt at similar times or get an IR gun and watch it warm up.
Then can try swapping an injector around if you find a cold one.
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if fuel isn't going into the oil, compression is good then that leaves the turbo might be leaking still.
Have you done a temp test to see if all are cylinders are running?
can use crayon to write on the heads near exh manifold to watch it melt at similar times or get an IR gun and watch it warm up.
Then can try swapping an injector around if you find a cold one.
Have you done a temp test to see if all are cylinders are running?
can use crayon to write on the heads near exh manifold to watch it melt at similar times or get an IR gun and watch it warm up.
Then can try swapping an injector around if you find a cold one.
Thanks
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From: evansville in
There once upon a Time were reports of Internal inj orings bypassing oil and consuming .
It's a long shot tho. It sure seems you have covered the basses well with what you have done so far.
Those comp numbers are not troublesome imo.
How are the turbo inlet vane leading edges?
It's a long shot tho. It sure seems you have covered the basses well with what you have done so far.
Those comp numbers are not troublesome imo.
How are the turbo inlet vane leading edges?
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There once upon a Time were reports of Internal inj orings bypassing oil and consuming .
It's a long shot tho. It sure seems you have covered the basses well with what you have done so far.
Those comp numbers are not troublesome imo.
How are the turbo inlet vane leading edges?
It's a long shot tho. It sure seems you have covered the basses well with what you have done so far.
Those comp numbers are not troublesome imo.
How are the turbo inlet vane leading edges?
I’m really hoping that’s all it is.
I replaced it with the Riffraff one but this is what was in there. When I bought it the stock airbox was still in place with a dusty old filter so one of the first things I did was put a freshly oiled AFE on.
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I didn’t think it looked too bad assuming it’s the original one with 180k on it. Far as I could tell with the motor upside down/ oil pan off the cylinders looked pretty good. Crosshatch still visible. I took some temperature readings on the manifold from a cold start at idle and high idle and didn’t see anything too alarming yet. 10 degrees difference or so. I’ll check some more next time I take it out. Still hopeful it’s just an internal o ring issue like fordpride has seen.