Oil Consumption
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 32
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It seems to pass that test fine. Definitely has some steam coming out the oil fill when I cold start it but I dont think it’s anymore than normal.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
I’ve now replaced the turbo bearing carrier, put another fresh set of bushings in, new rear main while installing dual disk, went to e-fuel, and upgraded injectors without seeing any improvements in the oil loss. One major thing to note, when I had the oil cooler off I found two pieces of gravel that were just large enough that they wouldn’t fit through the passages. I found one more with the oil pan off in the pickup screen. Not sure what happened to it in it’s past life that would’ve introduced rocks into the oil but that’s kinda just how my luck goes. I’ll probably do another compression test to confirm after running it for a while but I’m sure it’s time to start looking into a full rebuild.
With those compression #'s I wouldn't worry about piston rings but I would worry about valve guides/seals, if it was trully a low mileage engine that only means the engine wasn't run to often so either the seal are bad or the valve guides themselves wore out with all those dry starts.
Again, I do think there is some merit here with this information.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
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Man I hate to hear this. FWIW, with my first oil cooler rebuild on my '97 dually had those little pebbles in the passages. I did not have oil consumption and i am not sure what they were from, but I don't think that is your issue. JMO....I am not sure if they were from ill-maintained coolant or what, but I cleaned them out with a coat hanger and didn't think about it again.
I tend to agree here Adam. You know I have been down this road. It's where I got my "well oiled machine" theory that I firmly adhere to. I have seen it time and time again.
I do not think that is what Adam is saying here Glenn. See above.
Again, I do think there is some merit here with this information.
I tend to agree here Adam. You know I have been down this road. It's where I got my "well oiled machine" theory that I firmly adhere to. I have seen it time and time again.
I do not think that is what Adam is saying here Glenn. See above.
Again, I do think there is some merit here with this information.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,519
Likes: 2,027
From: North Texas
910s make a real nice difference in valve train stability. Plus, it is a well known fact OE springs are very soft from the factory. Spend the time to shim them correctly while in there, No8 will test your patience. 
I did Smith Bros rods while in there too
My stem seals came from Riffraff, I think I bought Alliant/Navistar. They were green, old were black.
If you still have oil loss, Supertech it up for $10/gal. I do...Byron knows this.
I did Smith Bros rods while in there too
My stem seals came from Riffraff, I think I bought Alliant/Navistar. They were green, old were black.
If you still have oil loss, Supertech it up for $10/gal. I do...Byron knows this.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
If you’re in there you might as well do the seal, 910s, keepers and at a minimum check your rods straightness and replace any busted oil deflectors etc.
I did 910s, seals and the smith bro rods like HMX stated. Rods are probably overkill but since I was burning money I threw 3 more notes on the fire.
I did 910s, seals and the smith bro rods like HMX stated. Rods are probably overkill but since I was burning money I threw 3 more notes on the fire.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
910s make a real nice difference in valve train stability. Plus, it is a well known fact OE springs are very soft from the factory. Spend the time to shim them correctly while in there, No8 will test your patience.
I did Smith Bros rods while in there too
My stem seals came from Riffraff, I think I bought Alliant/Navistar. They were green, old were black.
If you still have oil loss, Supertech it up for $10/gal. I do...Byron knows this.
I did Smith Bros rods while in there too
My stem seals came from Riffraff, I think I bought Alliant/Navistar. They were green, old were black.
If you still have oil loss, Supertech it up for $10/gal. I do...Byron knows this.
I wish I would’ve switched to something cheaper a long time ago. Could of single handedly kept rotella in business.
If you’re in there you might as well do the seal, 910s, keepers and at a minimum check your rods straightness and replace any busted oil deflectors etc.
I did 910s, seals and the smith bro rods like HMX stated. Rods are probably overkill but since I was burning money I threw 3 more notes on the fire.
I did 910s, seals and the smith bro rods like HMX stated. Rods are probably overkill but since I was burning money I threw 3 more notes on the fire.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
Go Supertech or Tractor Supply whether or not you are burning oil. You will not be disappointed.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
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Well a few weeks back I found four bad valve seals. One of them was completely split so I replaced them all and shimmed up some 910’s. Found that probably more than half of the pushrods had at least a little wobble in them. Some were worse than others but I buttoned it back up to make the trip back home thinking the oil disappearing act would be up. Once again, I thought wrong. It seems like it could be slightly better but still going through a gallon just to make it back. Way excessive
