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I guess anything is possible. I had no trouble with any of the bolts on the heads or intake though. I live in south mississippi, i bought it from canada off ebay. I was told it was a farm truck in prince albert canada.
Make sure your engine hoist has a short chain and enough lift travel to clear that radiator cross brace.
I also find it safer to lift the engine and then roll the vehicle from under it. Once you can lower the engine closer to the ground it is much more stable for rolling the hoist. This is especially true if the floor isn't perfectly flat and smooth.
For a first-timer, I would for sure recommend removing the front clip. I measured that the bottom of the oil pan has to be 42" off the ground to clear the front end sheet metal, that means you'll have ~400 lbs of metal almost 5 ft in the air. You need a sturdy, stable cherry picker to roll that much weight around, that high up in the air. With the sheet metal off, it is also easier to work on the engine before/after working on it. I would also not use a 3-wheeled engine stand, a HD 4-wheeler is much safer.
If things go well, that is all you really need. You can use a big, big screwdriver but you'll fight it all the way. Make a hook for the horseshoe clips from mechanic's wire.
Keep the valves assemblies and lifters in order so they can go back in the same places.
The oil pump may be stuck, twisting it and yanking on it will eventually get it out. On the back of the block, there is a cover with 5 bolts for the oil pump drive gear. If the block is going to be vatted, you need to remove the gear. It is held in the block my the piece at its center, which is a tight press fit into the block. A flat piece of 1/4" steel with a hole for a bolt to fit the center of the retainer will get it out, or a similar hub puller.
You can leave the cam gear on the cam, and the pulleys and crank timing gear on the crank at this point. Check the cam gear if it is still a fiber gear, it may be cracked or broken. Aluminum replacements are cheap.
Keep the rod bearings with their rods, and same for the mains. If they aren't numbered, put them in order so they go back in the same place. Tag the main bearing caps, two look almost identical.
There is a hidden bolt inside the water pump inlet openings. If you have an impact, use it with a 6-point socket, you likely get one shot at these.
Don't feel like the lone stranger, I am trying to get a 239 to fire in my '50 F-1. The starter would not work, I went through the process of checking grounds and connections and anything else I could check to no avail. All of a sudden a brain fart kicked in and I thought of the connection between the starter and the bell housing. I checked it and sure enough, it was cruddy. Cleaned the face of the starter and the bell housing and the thing worked fine. I also come here for help with questions and thank goodness there is this place.
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