When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here is an update. 3rd valve from the left is stuck. I put some atf on it today. Im hoping it will get loose. The other side of the engine has 4 stuck but havnt taken that head off yet.
So, just for fun....
Step 1...high cut compound
Step 2...clr and scotchbrite pad
Step 3...rubbing alcohol
Step 4...boiled linseed oil
Turn out deep and rich....happy with it
Might put a whole bunch more MMO in the other side in all cylinders you think are stuck. My entire crankshaft was really stuck, the first thing i did was soak it every night with a little more MMO in each cylinder,, tried getting it to move with wrench on crankshaft bolt, and rocked it back and forth in gear every night to try and unstick with the flywheel. It took nearly a week and the first turn got stuck again after about 1/4 turn, but after i got it all the way around by hand it started moving freely (probably got lubed up). I also replaced the engine oil. Only after all that did I try the starter. My engine has been running with no problems now for 2 years... and it was sitting in a barn for 26 years. Maybe I got lucky though.
I like the patina, that's going to be a nice ride!
Those spark plugs look kinda short ?
With the stuck valves don't go hitting them with a hammer , and if you do , do it gently in the dead center of the valve head if possible .
Good luck .
You should pull the intake manifold so you can access the bottoms of the valves. More MMO in the cylinders won't help the valves. If the valve stems are stuck in the guides (most likely), you may have punched in the tops of the lifters by cranking the engine. The stuck valve assemblies need to come out.
1) Not likely, if the piston is stuck "up", the rod must have broken. Crank and cylinder are almost certainly damaged.
2) They are around, check Craigslist, eBay, and just ask around.
3) The whole front clip can be removed at once. Just disconnect all the wiring and radiator hoses, etc. and then you'll have complete access. If you don't want to do that, pull it like any other engine, with a cherry picker. Easier without pulling the trans with it.
Yes it stinks, but it is what it is. I bought the truck to learn. I had two grandfathers that both had 50 f1 trucks. Its a way for me to learn what the knew. I guess ill pull the engine, tear it down, and take it to machinist to check for damage.
If you hear of an 8ba original looking, let me know,
Im in south mississippi
okay, i dug into it today. My goal is to have it out and torn apart in 3 weeks. Im impatient because im really thinking the block is destroyed. I found a intake plate to pull the engine. I think im going to put a jack under the transmission and pull engine out by itself.
Any tips? Anything you see in the pic im about to screw up? I do have to disconnect the exhaust pipe.
Anyone have a particular engine stand they recommend for a flathead?
Was all that dirt on the intake surface there when you lifted the intake manifold off? Looks like the engine sat with the intake off for quite a while, if so.
Yes, it had a lot of dirt on it!. I pulled the intake off this afternoon. I didnt even bother cleaning it because if its even rebuildable, im going to do it right.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.